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Replace clutch cable question


huck

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Any about 30K my clutch cable broke. Apparently they all brake because of the badly designed metal tube at the lever end. The replacement, Part number 2PP  26335-02 has a revised design of that metal tube part and will 'perhaps' help it last longer.
 
My question is for those of you that have replaced this cable, what is the best way to thread the new one in along its path from top to bottom?
 
I assume one can tape the new one to the old one and carefully pull it through...
 
From top to bottom?
From bottom to top?
 
Any advice on how to proceed with this replacement would be appreciated!
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Yes, the top-to-bottom method works fine. You could tape the new to the old and thread it through, the only tight spot is where it goes behind the radiator.
I had my bike apart for other maintenance when I replaced my cable, which made it a bit easier as I could see the cable routing with the tank off. It also might help with a second person on the receiving end, slowly pulling as you slowly push from the top, but it can be done quite easily with one person.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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OK, thanks everyone. I will go from the top after loosening the radiator up a bit...
 
The replacement design looks a bit better, with a longer, gentler, radius in the metal tube at the top. 
 
I appreciate the helpful information.
 
 
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From top to bottom is better. You will need to loosen bolts that hold radiator so the cables can pass. When taping the two cables together keep them as thin as possible since it is a tight squeeze through to the bottom.
I didn't have to loosen any bolts on the radiator to exchange my clutch cable.  Taping the two cables together when replacing my clutch cable worked very well.  I just wiggled it thru and it was fine. 
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Interesting... On mine, a '15, the clutch cable housing passes through a sort of clamp on front (left,clutch lever side) top of the radiator There is an alien head bolt holding the radiator and the clamp. The whole thing holds a rubber grommet which I assume is to isolate vibration from the rad. it was tough to get the skinny bolt out without removing the body work, but I managed. Once the bolt was out, and the housing was free of the clamp, it seems to move more or less freely over the top of the rad.
I don't have the new assembly yet, so I am leaving it in place until I have it in a day or so, and can tape it to the old one and pull it through.
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30k miles is a pretty good life for any clutch cable. I consider it a wear item and replace it periodically as part of preventive maintenance. Just plan to replace it at the same time as sparkplugs or some other task that requires tank removal, then it's much easier.
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OK, picked up the new cable assembly yesterday. This I disconnected everything. Loosened up the left side radiator top mount which has an integrated clutch cable housing clamp. Taped the new housing to the old one, and worked it through. Not particularly easy to do, but eventually got it done. It looks to me like the thing was put together and then they stuffed this cable housing through where they could... Not a particularly good job of industrial design, in regard to a part that might need replacement several times during the life of the bikes. 
 
MY cable broke where all the others did, right at the end of the abruptly curved upper guide tube. The new one has a much better guide tube; longer and with a very gentle curve. it is now also easier to get the ignition key in. Given that all the clutch cables broke in the same place and that Yamaha redesigned the part in response, I was disappointed that it was not a warranty issue... Oh well, I am back on the road for about $30 bucks and a couple of hours of off and on labor while I did other chores. (My insurance company caught the tow charge).
 
Fortunately I was very near home when this happened and was able to get a tow home quick enough. But, it took several days to get the part. Not something I would like to have happen on the road during a long trip. It is 37 degrees here today, but I was so happy to get my bike back on the road I took it for a test ride. Weather report for tomorrow is a high of 44-and dry... I'm, going riding.
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  • 3 weeks later...
2015 - Definitely had to move the radiator bracket, but otherwise a 15 minute job. I did find it curious that I had to set the clutch side with only about three threads showing on the lock nut to get the appropriate 10 mm of free play at the lever. Possibly the new cable is just a touch longer? We will see how it wears. Safe riding!
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2015 - Definitely had to move the radiator bracket, but otherwise a 15 minute job. I did find it curious that I had to set the clutch side with only about three threads showing on the lock nut to get the appropriate 10 mm of free play at the lever. Possibly the new cable is just a touch longer? We will see how it wears. Safe riding!
That's interesting that you had so much slack on your adjustment.  I changed mine out recently and on the engine side I had the adjuster nut fully seated (no slack take up) and on the lever end I had the adjuster set to less than 1/2 of the thread range. 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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