Cam chain tensioner or something worse?

[nicksta43]

I have to say that shim under bucket valve adjustments are the stupidest thing ever. Mainly because I suck at math.  I overshot several valves and have to tear it apart again. It wouldn't be that big of a deal if the CCT want such a pain to get in and out. It'll have to wait until tomorrow. I'm too exhausted to mess with it anymore tonight. 

Cyl 1.

Intake .20mm, .22mm. Exhaust .30mm, .34mm.

Cyl 2.

Intake .17mm, .20mm. Exhaust .33mm, .33mm.

Cyl 3.

Intake .22mm, .22mm. Exhaust .30mm, .30mm.

[nicksta43]

I came down with strep and stayed home today. I really feel bad but I can't stand having the bike just out in the garage and not being able to work on it. So I did. 

Made the valve adjustment, again. Wrestled with getting the cams in time, again. Double and Triple checked everything before I buttoned it up enough to run it. 

The second it fired I could tell it was right. Let it build some temp and gave it some revs and can absolutely tell it's fixed. It idles nice and smooth with no rev hanging and no stink.  I need to test ride to be 100% sure but I'm feeling feverish so that'll have to wait.

I then set about syncing the TBs. And after calibrating all my gauges I only had to make the slightest adjustment to the #1 cyl. And I really could have probably left it alone. 

So I'm super stoked. 

If I would have listened to skipperT months ago and double checked the cam timing it would have already been fixed. 

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and well wishes throughout this long process. Which was mainly only this long because life got in the way a little bit and I got lazy. 

My theory is the original noise was the CCT starting to let go. The dealership was trying to screw me, it's started for me every single time I've hit the button before and after this issue and I never heard anything that would lead me to believe there was serious internal engine damage occurring. When I replaced the CCT the intake cam jumped at least one but possibly two teeth. I'm not sure why the valves were tight. 

I still need to put the bodywork back on and I might try to sneak out in it later on tonight for a test ride.

[texscottyd]

@nicksta43 - Outstanding news!   Maybe a ride over to Austin for the MotoGP races on Sunday would be a good ‘back in the saddle’ reward?   

[koth442]

Fantastic news!! Congrats!

[nicksta43]

44 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

@nicksta43 - Outstanding news!   Maybe a ride over to Austin for the MotoGP races on Sunday would be a good ‘back in the saddle’ reward?   

We'll be there Saturday for sure. Don't think I can make Sunday. 

I couldn't stand it any longer and had to go ride it. Do you remember all those times I said it wasn't down on power? Yeah, I was wrong. I forgot how this bike absolutely rips. The valves are a little noisier at idle but I did loosen the exhaust quite a bit so probably should be expected.

I'm calling it fixed.

[betoney]

1 hour ago, nicksta43 said:

I'm calling it fixed.

Thats GREAT news!

[turboturtle]

I've read every post in this thread in order to further my knowledge on this bike/motor combination.So glad to know you got yours back up without shop help.

 I picked up my 15' five months ago with 2900 miles on it, and it has just turned over 7K.  I am now worried about my CCT as I believe I heard a brief one time moment of noise emanating from the top right side of the motor a couple thousand miles ago. It's been tight and right every since, but I can foresee issues looming in the near future. As the bike is four years old and on its second owner I'm sure I have no recourse, but I have tools and more than basic mechanical knowledge. 

I might start a thread of my own on this, or else just repair it and roll on a usual.

Thanks to you all for the knowledge shared in this thread

 

 

BOB

[micah2074]

Check and see if your bike is one of the recalled. 

[nicksta43]

I don't think there ever was an actual recall for this issue. Just a factory service bulletin. In my opinion I would just go ahead and put a manual tensioner in it. Just check the cam timing afterwards.  At this point I could have the valve cover off in about 30-40 minutes. Believe me it's worth the added time, plus you can check the valve clearance once you're in there. 

My bike has a build date of 11/14, so it was an earlier one I'd guess. 

[micah2074]

If it’s within the range and making a noise the dealer  should swap it out.

I’m not convinced the manual tensionor is the way to go. 

[nicksta43]

9 hours ago, micah2074 said:

If it’s within the range and making a noise the dealer  should swap it out.

I’m not convinced the manual tensionor is the way to go. 

That's what I thought too. But that didn't happen in my case. 

I've read that people didn't have a lot of confidence in the revised version either. 

I guess what I would say is if you can get a dealer to agree that it's making noise go ahead let them replace it. Or if not buy either the revised factory version or a manual one and go ahead and replace it. Because at this point if you have the early version it's not worth the risk to leave it in. 

Although I think if you go to or even call any Yamaha dealer they can run the VIN and tell you if it's in the range that's affected and if it's already been replaced. Mine never made a noise until that morning at 10k miles.

[chitown]

12 hours ago, nicksta43 said:

I don't think there ever was an actual recall for this issue. Just a factory service bulletin. In my opinion I would just go ahead and put a manual tensioner in it. Just check the cam timing afterwards.  At this point I could have the valve cover off in about 30-40 minutes. Believe me it's worth the added time, plus you can check the valve clearance once you're in there. 

My bike has a build date of 11/14, so it was an earlier one I'd guess. 

Even if it's still just a TSB there's a list of VINs it applies to. I installed the manual unit as I've done on several bikes with CCT issues. Never did a timing or valve check in conjunction with it, but did on a regular maintenance schedule, and all of those bikes are still running well without having had any issues many thousands of miles later. 

10 hours ago, micah2074 said:

If it’s within the range and making a noise the dealer  should swap it out.

I’m not convinced the manual tensionor is the way to go. 

My logic is that manual units just work and aren't much trouble to install, check, and adjust. Otoh every Japanese mfg has had bikes where they've issued multiple revisions of the CCT, we know Yamaha has revised this one, and there's no guarantee they won't need to again requiring yet another replacement. That's not damning the mfgs, this is a common practice as more data is collected. And, though anecdotal I've experienced poor maintenance from many dealers that I've had to correct. Every such encounter avoided is a win in my book. Ymmv.