K-Tech Razor R installed and first ride

[StealthAu]

23 hours ago, wordsmith said:

dazz - to answer your PM question, the following settings are on the job notes given to me:

Rear shock upgrade:

• compression - 16 clicks out
• rebound - 8 clicks out
• rider sag 51mm.   

These may well change when Joe at Ride Dynamics does his final fettling and fine-tuning next week, but might be a useful starting-point for you as we are of near-identical weight.   I'll let you know.   But beware the added weight of those GT stripes...

 

That seems a little excessive for sag. Was it set as such to get the seat lower, easier for you to get your feet on the ground, or is there another reason they set it there?
What was the sag the set on the front?

[wordsmith]

3 hours ago, StealthAu said:

 

That seems a little excessive for sag. Was it set as such to get the seat lower, easier for you to get your feet on the ground, or is there another reason they set it there?
What was the sag the set on the front?

I took the bike to an expert.   It's what he does.   But as explained in an earlier post - :The new unit has adjustable length, so about 10 or 12mm (half-an-inch) was wound out, lowering the bike's rear by that much after I said that I like to be able to fully flat-foot at rest, which is barely achievable with the OE unit.

[dazzler24]

Or if you're not a DIY-er and are happy to spend the cash AU$105 (US~$71) you could just get one of these German made devices........!

Maybe this is what the shop guy was using and not just a pencil beam!?... I don't know.

Looks like there's a couple of different versions with slightly different characteristics depending on what you need/want.

Profi Laser Chain Alignment tool

Adjustment / max. Deviation: <0.05%

The description says... "Laser motorcycle chain & rear wheel alignment tool.  Check chain and belt alignment with laser precision in seconds!  Simply hold the Profi Laser C.A.T. against the rear sprocket and aim the laser along the drive chain. Helps minimise wear to chain and sprockets. Ideal tool for the end user and professionals alike"

 

[dazzler24]

On 10/4/2019 at 10:21 AM, wordsmith said:

dazz - to answer your PM question, the following settings are on the job notes given to me:

Rear shock upgrade:

• compression - 16 clicks out
• rebound - 8 clicks out
• rider sag 51mm.   

These may well change when Joe at Ride Dynamics does his final fettling and fine-tuning next week, but might be a useful starting-point for you as we are of near-identical weight.   I'll let you know.   But beware the added weight of those GT stripes...

Thanks for that info @wordsmith - I've got my Compression set at 14 and my Rebound at 16 ATM as they are the halfway points respectively and went for a 200Km ride yesterday.  At the halfway point I stopped for lunch at a nice lookout and was going to set your C & R figures for the ride home but was waylayed by tourists who all wanted to check out the bike and chat and with that distracted me completely and I rode home with the same settings!  Old timers disease!  Yes I could have stopped but was now late and needed to get home.

Anyway, the ride felt waaaay better than any ride I've had with the OEM shock, a little plush perhaps and I guess that would make sense with the rebound at 16, I might be getting a little bounce at the top of the stroke - but I will experiment to find Nirvarna.

I think it was Betony who recommended going to a 3rd of the way out from closed initially and work from there so will give it a go.

Thanks.

[Hyena]

So, dumb question. I got the Razor R myself but I'm struggling with figuring out how to safely lift the rear so I can replace it since I no longer have a center stand. Some say that the swingarm spools are sufficient and stable but others say that once I undo the rear shock, it will fall if it's on the swingarm spools, which makes sense. Other options look like using an engine hoist and a load leveller with some ratchet straps around the rear passenger foot-peg brackets. I've also seen people reverse the main foot pegs but the shifter side peg has to be drilled out from what I'm reading, which sounds like I have to replace it which I'm not keen on. I have a motorcycle jack but it's built for more cruisers with rails as the lowest point and not bikes like ours that has the oil pan as the lowest point.   What methods do you guys use, @betoney @dazzler24?

[betoney]

2 minutes ago, Hyena said:

So, dumb question. I got the Razor R myself but I'm struggling with figuring out how to safely lift the rear so I can replace it since I no longer have a center stand. Some say that the swingarm spools are sufficient and stable but others say that once I undo the rear shock, it will fall if it's on the swingarm spools, which makes sense. Other options look like using an engine hoist and a load leveller with some ratchet straps around the rear passenger foot-peg brackets. I've also seen people reverse the main foot pegs but the shifter side peg has to be drilled out from what I'm reading, which sounds like I have to replace it which I'm not keen on. I have a motorcycle jack but it's built for more cruisers with rails as the lowest point and not bikes like ours that has the oil pan as the lowest point.   What methods do you guys use, @betoney @dazzler24?

See what happens when you try and get creative?😎👍

You couldn't pay me enough to remove the center stand from my bike, if it didn't have one, I would pay extra to get one.  I use it a majority of the time, side stand not so much.

[skipperT]

16 minutes ago, Hyena said:

So, dumb question. I got the Razor R myself but I'm struggling with figuring out how to safely lift the rear so I can replace it since I no longer have a center stand. Some say that the swingarm spools are sufficient and stable but others say that once I undo the rear shock, it will fall if it's on the swingarm spools, which makes sense. Other options look like using an engine hoist and a load leveller with some ratchet straps around the rear passenger foot-peg brackets. I've also seen people reverse the main foot pegs but the shifter side peg has to be drilled out from what I'm reading, which sounds like I have to replace it which I'm not keen on. I have a motorcycle jack but it's built for more cruisers with rails as the lowest point and not bikes like ours that has the oil pan as the lowest point.   What methods do you guys use, @betoney @dazzler24?

Yes, if you only use the swing arm spools then it will collapse once you start removing bolts in the suspension linkage. I'd use a combination of the swing arm spools and stand to stabilize the bike, and a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood to protect the pan (cut 2x4) and allow you to change the height of the suspension linkage/geometry to start removing bolts.

if you want to throw a strap under the upper triple clamp and secure it to a strong point in the garage ceiling , it would certainly be a good "safety" point.

-Skip

[Hyena]

Man, that sounds spooky, @skipperT. I guess I could just remove my slip on, reinstall my center stand and then do it the way Yamaha-God intended....

[dazzler24]

28 minutes ago, Hyena said:

So, dumb question. I got the Razor R myself but I'm struggling with figuring out how to safely lift the rear so I can replace it since I no longer have a center stand. Some say that the swingarm spools are sufficient and stable but others say that once I undo the rear shock, it will fall if it's on the swingarm spools, which makes sense. Other options look like using an engine hoist and a load leveller with some ratchet straps around the rear passenger foot-peg brackets. I've also seen people reverse the main foot pegs but the shifter side peg has to be drilled out from what I'm reading, which sounds like I have to replace it which I'm not keen on. I have a motorcycle jack but it's built for more cruisers with rails as the lowest point and not bikes like ours that has the oil pan as the lowest point.   What methods do you guys use, @betoney @dazzler24?

I used my centre stand to do the job when I changed mine out but as you no longer have one what about using some ratchet straps from a couple of solid points up high near the rear seat.  The frame for example. This is assuming you can use a beam or the like under the house or garage to attach to.  I've used that technique on the front on occassions.  I would add some stabilisation for the front as well though as others have suggested.

The swing arm is definately free when you release your old shock so spools wouldn't be an option I'm thinking.

[dazzler24]

6 minutes ago, Hyena said:

Man, that sounds spooky, @skipperT. I guess I could just remove my slip on, reinstall my center stand and then do it the way Yamaha-God intended....

There's always that! 🙂

 

[betoney]

16 minutes ago, Hyena said:

I guess I could just remove my slip on, reinstall my center stand and then do it the way Yamaha-God intended....

You beat me to it, I was just going to suggest the same thing.

[BBB]

Probably much easier for you to reinstall the centre stand, but as an alternative, I have one of these stands which I have used when the centre stand was removed for exhaust install. It’s also good for front end removal and both wheels off the ground.

Motorcycle Equipment - Abba Stands, UK

---

The home of the award winning abba superbike stand, amazing abba Sky...

 

[2and3cylinders]

22 hours ago, Hyena said:

So, dumb question. I got the Razor R myself but I'm struggling with figuring out how to safely lift the rear so I can replace it since I no longer have a center stand. Some say that the swingarm spools are sufficient and stable but others say that once I undo the rear shock, it will fall if it's on the swingarm spools, which makes sense. Other options look like using an engine hoist and a load leveller with some ratchet straps around the rear passenger foot-peg brackets. I've also seen people reverse the main foot pegs but the shifter side peg has to be drilled out from what I'm reading, which sounds like I have to replace it which I'm not keen on. I have a motorcycle jack but it's built for more cruisers with rails as the lowest point and not bikes like ours that has the oil pan as the lowest point.   What methods do you guys use, @betoney @dazzler24?

I welded up gantry posts with a base plate and angle welded to it with a short piece of the same angle 90 degrees, drilled holes through both, through which 1" threaded rod passes with a length of pipe over it as a spacer and smooth surface for the ratcheting tie downs, and washers and nuts at each end.  My table lift has a wheel vice and eye bolts for more stabilizing straps (I don't bother with the latter).  A small bottle jack under the swing arm adjusts its alignment with the shock linkage, and a scissor jack under the oil pan also adds stability.  The tie down hangs from the cross pipe and their other ends j-hooks lift at the pillion footpeg brackets.  East peasy, universal fit.  Didn't need it with the FJ-09s centerstand but used the bottle jack and wheel vice.

[2and3cylinders]

On 10/5/2019 at 12:49 AM, dazzler24 said:

Or if you're not a DIY-er and are happy to spend the cash AU$105 (US~$71) you could just get one of these German made devices........!

Maybe this is what the shop guy was using and not just a pencil beam!?... I don't know.

Looks like there's a couple of different versions with slightly different characteristics depending on what you need/want.

Profi Laser Chain Alignment tool

Adjustment / max. Deviation: <0.05%

The description says... "Laser motorcycle chain & rear wheel alignment tool.  Check chain and belt alignment with laser precision in seconds!  Simply hold the Profi Laser C.A.T. against the rear sprocket and aim the laser along the drive chain. Helps minimise wear to chain and sprockets. Ideal tool for the end user and professionals alike"

 

I'm going to look into this tool.  

I have one of these but my eyes aren't good enough to see the front sprocket LOL.  Maybe try taping a laser pencil to it!

 

[2and3cylinders]

On 10/4/2019 at 9:52 PM, wordsmith said:

I took the bike to an expert.   It's what he does.   But as explained in an earlier post - :The new unit has adjustable length, so about 10 or 12mm (half-an-inch) was wound out, lowering the bike's rear by that much after I said that I like to be able to fully flat-foot at rest, which is barely achievable with the OE unit.

Great idea Wordy!  With my sciatica really getting much worse suddenly (just in time for the riding season), I'm having a difficult time getting on and off with my slightly taller Sargent saddle in the upper position to maximize legroom.  I've been trying getting on seated while on the centerstand, pushing forward leaned off with my left foot but it's PDH getting it off the CS!  I rock forward and it starts to roll then it pops back, over and over, I start laughing and I'm sure people wonder what's with that guy.  I've tried dismounting on the side stand using the left foot peg like getting off a horse but it's not only weird and shaky but I'm concerned about the side stand giving way under my considerable girth.  I'm having trouble walking let alone getting on and off, and I can't move around and lean my upper body off while trying to counter-steer because my hips and legs are in constant pain.

Did your expert raise the fork tubes to balance the front rear suspension heights too?  I checked and my Razor R length which was set by my expert (Matt, who also added a Torrington thrust bearing and custom adapter to ease spring adjustment) pretty close to OEM length.  But with it being stiffer both spring and compression wise, shortening its length 10~12 mm could be the trick.  Then if necessary raise the fork tubes but that reduces our already skimpy ground clearance (I did install a low-profile magnetic drain plug long ago and SW-Mototech skid plate recently (Twisted Throttle had them for what ended up to be $90 shipped with my accrued points from when I bought the Engage tank bag). 

My steering is so light with the wide bars and stiffer fork springs and now two-way compression / rebound damping adjusted just right, even with brake dive during trail braking it's almost telepathic.  I guess I could live with a bit slower turn-in with the rear dropped.  I'm going to go for it!  Thanks again!