2and3cylinders

Sounds great but it needs a new roof badly if that's a recent photo Who's Hayabusa is that! Not exactly a couch for endurance unless the bars have been raised and the pegs lowered! I bought my FJ for not really endurance but touring that being my endurance used to be 600 miles for a day not anymore Of course those 600 mi days were on my VTR which also is not exactly a couch but a very fun and light one freaking Busa's are pushing, what with all that gear, 700 pounds? I know plenty also run a Kawi ZZR 1400 and then there's the Yami FJR1300; and of course Wings Being raised on light singles and twins of the British persuasion, anything more than 450 lb is pushing it for me

On a flashed fastest Grey 15 or so, 19 to 23 miles and then the last bar blinks very fast as the CP3 coughs dry and quits...

I determined I only needed one of the washers shown above below my .90 Sonic straight rate springs with two more on top in each leg with the OEM plastic spacers for my 15 fastest red FJ. I also installed Forks by Matt custom cartridges with OEM rebound / preload cap and rod to the left leg along with Matts adjustable compression, and kept the OEM rebound components with new fixed compression in the right leg. I polished the stanchion tubes, and replaced the seals and bushings as well as the dust collars (with OEM). Since then I have dumped and flushed with ATF every 20k or so miles replacing the 16 cSt @ 40C fluid set with an air gag compressed at about 5.5 inches. To work with the massaged forks, I installed a K-Tech Razor R shock supposedly set for me that Matt added a spring preload spacer and needle thrust bearing to ease adjustments. Maintaining the swing arm and linkage bearings + steering head bearing greasing & adjustment, and refreshing the Razor R every couple of years, along with freshly baked doughnuts at least once a season allows my Gentleman's Express fly low wonderfully...

Very nice. Yes, it's a lot of red. But you might as well go all out, eh? I spent a lot of time in Canada in my youth

You know I was only joking don't you One thing I found with t thirty two is the last three hundred miles disappear very quickly!

I learned a long ago, in the time before radials when bias-ply and compounds were scary but as good as it got, to bend it in through sheer willpower. Kind of like Beckham...

I wear my T32 down to the steel belts, you have plenty left!

We're not gonna get above thirty two until a week from monday

and if dp doesn't take, LMK!

When we lifted the first Sears Tower antenna tower sections with an original model Sikorsky Skycrane S-64E, we were VERY worried if it could lift the bottom 18,000 pound (8165 kg) 22 foot (6.7 m) high 8 foot on-side triangular bases because the helo had a max 20k # capacity at 32F and the high was going to be -24F and the wind was a steady 15 mph; max lift wind speed. Felt temp was -51F. Twin 450p hp kero gas turbofan jet engines give max power at 32F but geometrically loose goose below that. I was out in an empty, open full City square block for 4 days inspecting the bolted bracket arm connections and attaching the oak reinforced fiberglass eye mullions. I was tasked with epoxy bonding the viscoelastic damping pads but it was WAY too cold to even get the 50/50 part A & B out of the can let alone mix it. They built a plywood shed for me with a Kerosene heater but I imagined getting blown up in it by the epoxy fumes. We ended up packing taping the pads on. The main roof is 1,464' AGL and the antenna spires top out at 1,721 feet AGL (525 mtrs). If you spit it bounced when it hit the ground. I could hardly walk in triple base layers and double insulated cover-alls. I slipped from on wet steel and fell back onto a corner bracket and it ripped through all the layers and cut one of my ass cheeks. It didn't hurt too bad as it froze quickly, blood and all. Finished out my shift though. I still hang from towers and spires after starting in 1970. It's not the fall that kills you. It's the sudden stop. If you piss off the Sears antenna tower from the 1685 AGL hatches, it ends up in Gary Indiana. We only work at night when they go to their offsite stand-by antennas. The 5mil watt FM antennas will cook you like a baked potato.

You replaced the whole thing rather than reinforce it I'm still running my original but reinforced it when it showed signs of cracking. I think I posted photos of what I did if you're interested.

If it was 10C in the winter here I'd ride every chance I got; given my bod was up to it.

I usually try to get out as late as possible in December. But for a NYD ride the weather here is too iffy to enable a tradition. If you watch the Bear's game highlights from yesterday you'll see the snow we got. So attached is my annual NYD ode to riding for the year pic...

As betoney said, I know of no fuses under the tank...

I may go back to a 525 next change. And I use the same EK and RK DID they're all comparable.

If you review my prior related posts in this thread, I stated I'm a bit OCD with chain tension and sprocket alignment. I replaced the OEM chain adjusters long ago with micrometer click type units, use a spring-loaded chain pretensioner tool, initially eyeball alignment with the Motion Pro rear sprocket clamp & rod tool modified with a rod 2.5 times longer, then check side to side parity with a vernier caliper and a Profi L-CAT magnet mount laser alignment tool. But otherwise I'm somewhat lackadaisical about chain tension and alignment. 😵‍💫

I do use quality Japanese change like like the DID ZMX or whatever. And still i'm disappointed Again, I'm using a 520. But I don't think it should make that big of a difference. Considering race bikes with a lot more horsepower use five twenty chains Last time around, I didn't replace the sprockets. As they look good, they are the super light steel front and rear. So I don't know what's going on

Other than my 72 BMW R75/5 Toaster Tank, all of my bikes have been chain drive. So I've personally changed a lot of chains and sprockets over the last 50 years and likely 500,000+ miles. And while from day 1 I've ignored the ridiculously tight Yamahaha chain tension spec (and inversely, IMO, have gone 15% lower than the insanely high rear axle nut "torque "), it seems no matter how loose or tight I set it, I can't get much more than 14~15k miles out of one (even exclusive of the OEM chain). On all my other bikes going back 20 years, 20 to even 25k miles was the norm. Even on big V twins. And I'm OCD about chain tension and sprocket alignment. Is it just me, my right wrist and the CP3?

Since I bought my 15 in 16, it's been back to the dealer twice; once for the bar riser recall, and for the CCT TSB. I asked if they'd give me the parts and I'd do it, then return the old parts. Haha... The tech who did the bar riser replacement couldn't even tighten the bottom nut properly or install the riser caps correctly. The cam chain death rattle came back within 3k miles, and that was after the the V2 CCT. I put in an APE MCCT and not issues since. After a valve shim replacement and cam reinstall, I adjust the cam chain by ear. I have checked the valve lash 4 times. At 20k miles ALL 12 were VERY tight. Checked again in 10k and all was well. In another 10k, 2 intake & 3 exhaust were tight! In another 10k all were good but it's been another 15k+ and I'm going to check this winter. TB sync has never been far off, and I can check it (but not adjust it) in 10 minutes by only pulling out from the side of the frame the vacuum line extensions I attached to the ports of the TBs. My only recurring issue is my fastest red eats chains. Yes I maybe let it go too long between adjustments but I lube diligently. I use the 2nd highest spec quality Japanese chains; although the last 3 chains have been 520 not 525. I don't think that's it though...

It's easy to yank your chain! And how do you know things are done right?

You're just lazy Dave, and use the plastic as an excuse 🫢 And immature when you get new toys and can't wait to get them installed 😁 But I'd rather have you pass out in the Bret Cave first than we finally get you here with parts finally so I can pop em in LOL

I respectfully and vehemently disagree with Zig. "A couple of bucks", really, at basic rates over $130 an hour? Finding a "trusted" pro is harder than finding hen's teeth, always has been. Based on this Yamaha's reliability, it's unlikely that a "serious" issue will occur in the boonies or anywhere else for that matter. Taking a breath and thinking things through will most often lead to a simple resolution. And on the other hand, prior savings will go far to offset the rare catastrophic event; as will a YES if purchased cheaply. And anyway, the point and benefits of fundamental DIY is not to address a catastrophic failure in the first place. Besides the cost and time savings, one cannot put a price on the feeling of self confidence, accomplishment and pride gained with development of of the process of becoming "one" with your machine; including concurrently improving one's riding skill sets! The above is just one older guys opinion...

But do they help

As usual Brian said at all

Very interesting I don't think airbag pants are in my near future dueto my physical limitations just getting on and off The bike that such a garment would presumably more difficult But if you do move forward and by the pants I'm sure you'll give us a review. And if you do try to transfer the airbag to another pair of pants, Let me know because i'm somewhat of a tailor and have made motorcycle pants out of leather, and nylon is easier. It should be doable