2and3cylinders

I just read up on the transalp It's got a high seat and weighs 459 wet how much less is that then a tracer Not much And tall I don't get it

And they're sold out

I have the same muffs As I've said before, other than a few added farkles my bike looks exactly like yours! Beautifully photographed And that's a big compliment coming from an old shutterbug with boxes full of dark room equipment in the basement. Haven't touched a thirtyfive one twenty or four by five camera in 30 years since digital came out

I understand your driving lights but am I missing something? It looked like an extension to the faring in your 1st pic?

Babies will grow! What's that clear deflector with a presume a running light you attached to your fairing lower with some type of led light?N

This is a troubling question and I'm glad you're okay The reason I've kept my 98 VTR, which I've mentioned many times, is it's beauty to me; and I'm not a form type of guy. It's just classic for a mid 90s but only made 98~05. Stone Simple, Shade Tree mechanic type but it still gets its done. My year 1 FJ is on the cusp of being too complicated. Bottom line it's a difficult decision but if I could find 1 with low miles and maybe farkled out 2018 triumph Tiger Sport https://www.moto-data.net/triumph/tiger-sport-2018#:~:text=Triumph Tiger Sport is produced in 2018. Engine,479 lbs. Triumph Tiger Sport has 5 photos. It's a bit heavy but has decent suspension single sided swing arm cruise control And possibly available in red but I'm not sure about the dealer network around here there is really only a couple. Reliability could also be an issue And there weren't that many imported Ignore the below link I don't know how it got in there

Oops I should have said 1 down on the front...

You could try going to up 2 on the rear sprocket If there is enough chain or 1 up on the front sprocket To get some more grunt in 6 gear Good luck with your purchase! In our day a 750 was a big bike eh

When you say rearsets I presumed you wanted something like racing style pegs that are up and back, excuse me if I misunderstood you. The pegs I have may be you exactly what you're looking for, down and forward a bit.

The pegs you see on my bike rotate 360 so you can bring them up and back if you want easy peasy and pretty damn cheap good quality have held up to my girth! Don't know why you'd want to though because the FJ tracer et cetera are designed to be comfortable not a sport bike necessarily. I rented a 16 in San Diego in March and some idiot had put on a set of rear sets, they were just awful, painful and it shifted like crap, so I wouldn't advise it

Sargent is +1" and wider, longer pegs are -3/4" & forward +5/8" Street Naked bars are higher with more rearward sweep

Aerostitch Transit 2 CE Lvl 2 all-around waterproof GorePro, solar reflective, breathable leather 2-piece suit needs nothing but a Warm N Safe heated 12v long-sleeved 90w jacket liner with their dual Heatroller and the abor SuperTouring heated armored armor all around

Where's the cat? Just before the can?

T10 vs T15? I have plug n play and want reliability Maybe Euro bulbs are different

I converted US fronts to 3-wire rears years ago to tail / turns. Where did you find the red and amber 2 way led bulbs and for $ ? BTW I have a red tracing brake function led strip light on the back & side edge of my Shad top case rack and Custom LEDs very bright replacement tail brake light unit with built in turn signals. I also added an amber LED strip to the side panels for side position lights, red reflective wheel striping, the same very bright LED running/turn LED bulbs in front (controlled by a low-draw relay), and twin 6-diode 8-watt [80 watt eq) driving lights on the Givi case guards. The coup-de-grace is my Kisan Electronics Patherfinder LED mosfet headlight modulator. My helmet sports the BrakeFree 6-axis accelerometer driven brake light. Then there's my hiviz Hit-Air airbag vest, and when I choose them, a couple of different matching hiviz jackets. Can you say CONSPICUITY ? Still I ride like I'm invisible to cagers. The premise to staying alive is "If you're not there, they can't kill you"!

Is a stated before I lowered and move slightly forward with wider and longer adjustable pegs And for the rear brake Knocked in the heal guard for more clearance When you're back in the peg

AliExpress It was $27 + tax 😬

Is that a Jeaprody question? For $20 shipped it appears to be of PDG quality; I could of got in red. I was surprised it was delivered in a bit over a week. Wish I could test it but the weather here will suck for another week!

I've mentioned and queried before if anyone had tried a shift shaft brace that supports the somewhat long splined shaft to which the shift lever linkage rotates while at the same time applying a lateral force. Not the shaft is THAT long that the shift action creates a significant torque moment arm effect but I can't see the brace doing any harm. The brace shaft hole has a close tolerance needle bearing inside that I lubed, and the gold cone washer I happened adds some bling that matches the forks. I'll report back but I doubt I'll be able to discern a difference. You like my shift lever peg rubber? Do I have it upside down?

I know, it's scary! I still have the original in mine. Figure next spring it'll be time. Bri- whose battery did you choose I'm considering Lithium Iron....

Brian I have EBC HH pads in front, and as I indicated, the OEM GG rear pads still in. Are the rear EBC HH grabby or tend to lock-up? I'm not sure if the rear has the "fade" issue like the front because I rarely use it hard, mainly to settle the rear before turn-in, and trail braking. Skip, my front is rock solid 85%+ of the time, and the 15% clears up after a quick pull and a half of the lever. When it fades it gives another 1/2"+ of travel but usually immediately pumps to hard. I have vacuumed from the MC bleeder but not manually I think it's air in the front half the ABS pump, so I'll try another vacuum suck. I'll also try off roading... And post up again when I can add some eperacle data... 🤬

Brian I don't THINK I had this problem before I replaced the MC but with my memory and how long it's been...I know I bought my 15 FJ new in July 2016. I'd changed pads before all the other mods and that helped but the feel of the stock brakes / pads (the latter being only GG) for me was wooden. Hence the pads and Speigler lines then a few months later the R1 MC, rotors and required associated caliper spacers. Which 3 MC exactly did you try, and what are you running now, including rotors? Was any of your 2 R1 MC like mine, a 14 Brembo unit. Were all 3 new (as mine was), and my first radial. I'm not sure it's that much better it is over an axial with the brake problem we have. But we need to figure it out! Inexpensively. But ABS pump bleeding with Yamahahaha tool / device did no good? Have you tried cycling the pump "off-road"? I wanted more feel thus lever travel but also better bite, which I got; just sometimes with too much lever travel. Do you know the stock 15 caliper piston sizes, and the MC piston diameter, stroke and leverage ratio?? I'm not sure how to find the 14 R1 MC specs, maybe on the R! forum... I just can't believe the caliper / MC mix is to blame. I have noticed the right and left caliper bleed screws are different sizes. What's up with that? Really, my only gripe with my also fastest red is this brake issue. Everything else I can except because you can't make a silk purse... or a S1000XR... Do you like the stock rear GG pads (which oddly are no longer available from Yamaha)? I have some HH EBC pads I'm scared to try; worried about locking up the rear because of my heavy forward weight balance (which is why I want to shorten my Razor R length to slow things down up front a bit).

Reprising an old thread here...and I've reviewed other pertinent threads. Here goes. I've always flushed & bled my 15s brakes like normal non-ABS brakes using a Mity-Vac and a clamp on the brake lever and bungy cord on the pedal overnight. However, the operation of the front brake still varies with a soft pull rather frequently and other times it's firm and OK. There's a certain route I take where despite my well sorted suspension, over a set of downhill stutter bumps the brake lever will pulsate; so I know the system is functioning. I have not the nerve to wack on the brakes on dirt hard enough to activate the ABS pump though I have tried. I could not find in the 15-16 shop manual other than on pages 4-65 ~ 4-68) where and how to activate the ABS pump without the Yamaha Diagnostic Tool (current part number is 90890-03273-00 for $536 !!!). It's time for my annual flush & bleed and I know it's likely I'll end up with a soft lever occasionally (usually after start-up even if I pump the brakes before rolling out). This is very disconcerting and dangerous. Now I should mention I have Speigler lines, a 2014 R1 Brembo radial MC and 320 mm rotors; not that I think they have any bearing (I have no fluid or air leaks after testing after every fluid change). If someone can provide the precise procedure for cycling the ABS pump without the tool (and grabbing the brakes on infirm soil) I'd greatly appreciate it!!! https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/90890-03231-00?msclkid=82def596f1091ad5234f90b0220f11a0 https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/90890-03273-00 https://www.cmsnl.com/products/yamaha-diagnostic-toolai_9089003273/

I had 2 well taken care of Antigravity jumpers go bad well before they should have. One of mine and a buddy's swelled so bad they popped open their cases. Quite alarming! Now in all our vehicles, 4 wheel as well, we carry these. Not the smallest but on the bike I only carry it when I'm more than 100 miles from home (where I can be rescued my SWMBO) but in a smaller case with an alligator clamp set I modified from one of the 2 dead AG units with old Radio Shack half size clamps that are perfect for bikes. I also on tour carry this smaller power pack. It is pretty trick and can fully recharge my S21 4000 mah battery twice!

Maybe i'm just oblivious to the poor shifting T6 may give. For the price, you can change it more often like a Dino oil and I said it wasn't a PAO. Back before they changed mobile one I used it as a motorcycle oil and in my car's but then the package we needed for API efficiency ratings was removed and i switched to various oils over the years, some at the time were spendy for MA MC oil. I can't recall how I ended up with T6 but It does getter done