peteinpa

STILL?? pull that wheel, fill the bathtub, dunk it. 15 psi in 24 hrs you will find it! Don't ignore that the rim might be cracked.

You're still under warranty. get it to the dealer before the weather stops you.

Since this went 4 pages without an answer I'm up. I was going to provide a link but it's gone. This is not a new problem, and I like that it's been confirmed with driving on the wrong side of the road having exactly the opposite wear as here. I've had such bad wear on the left of some front tires I've thought about remounting the tire backwards to even it out. I've pulled several fronts on my previous, various bikes that are worse then that. This applies to driving on the right side of the road. Other places just reverse. 2 things happen that wear out the left side first. One is left turns at traffic lights the arc is longer than a right so more wear. 2nd is sight distance in left curves are longer so we ride them tighter and harder than right curves. That's it. It's not the camber of the road for rain runoff. It's not an alignment problem. It's not a mounting or suspension or set-up problem. EDIT: found the site, it moved. Motorcycle Tire Wear Read till you go blind. 😂

Welcome back to motorcycling and welcome to the forum! Do your self a favor and check your chain free play, make sure it has 25-30 mm. Check other setup items and maint. items also. Dealer competence has gone downhill since the 80's.☹️

I'm doing a valve check between 12 and 16k miles. whenever any following winters hit.

Just got back from another ride, the more I ride it the more I love it! It DOES replace 2 bikes just fine. The FJ has the power of the ST and lightness and handling of the FZ-07. I had the ST1300 since 2008 and though it was a great bike I NEVER liked the engine sounds, kind of hated them. FZ-07 sounded great. FJ-09 at times sounds like an inline 4 and times a three. I LOVE the sounds. I keep wondering how many more great 80F days like today are left here in PA. 2800 miles and counting...

This is for USA and no ECU tune only: On the emissions sticker under the tail it says: Fuel: unleaded gasoline 95 RON min. (why they use the European system on the USA sticker is beyond me). 95 RON is equal to 90 (R+m)/ 2 which is how our pumps are labeled Here. So any fuel 90 or higher is fine. If you can get 90 or higher without ethanol, get it, you will be amazed. This winter my ECU will get the 2WDW treatment, then this will be null and void. They tune for 91 octane (more ignition advance) and 10% ethanol. (richer) Bike will probably run too rich with E0 then. My FZ-07 was tuned by 2WDW and I tried E0 a couple of times. No difference positive or negative.

I've been using E0 in my lawn tractor, chainsaw etc. forever. It's the only way to go. As far as any FI vehicle it's just not as much of a problem as with carburetors. I guess if it sits REALLY long (years) there would be a problem but just the off season I've never had a problem.

Congrats on the new goo GT! I love mine (new to me FJ-09)more every time I go out. Winter is going to be hell! It REALLY does look like goo.😂

Found a tip on Youtube. After removing location pins, put a piece of heat shrink between control housing and handlebar to keep it from rotating.

That seems unanimous. So even for the throttle housing, does that squeeze tight enough?

I've got my Rizoma MA009 bars and will be installing when I can't ride anymore (snow YUCK!) My BIG question and I've searched and read everything I can find is do you drill the new bars or dremel those locator pins off. Let me say right now on stock bars the left control housing is already slightly loose. I tightened it and it still twists with slight effort till the pin stops it in its hole. These are plastic threads so you can't go crazy on the torque. On the right side the throttle housing has 2 pins, 1 in each half. (I think, haven't taken apart yet, just looked in manual) What a pain, so 3 holes in the bar on that side. If the vote is drill holes, how do you accurately mark the exact right spots? Thanks.

I'm about 99% sure the FJ-09, FZ-09, Tracer etc. Does not have a knock sensor without dragging out my Service Manual.

Isn't that the coriolis effect???

You took it too far and the spring shot from the highest preload to the lowest. Shouldn't have done any damage, just continue winding in the same direction and set it where you want. BUT...Don't do it again. Might shear off those steps that hold it.

Wow, this is going to be like hanging a painting. So where do we place a level on the bike...What's straight?

Yes, Really. I can also tell the difference in power between E10 and E0 90 octane.

Going to try this. I'm surprised 4 mm is even noticeable. I had tried to lift the front but the tank bracket stopped me. Didn't even think of shimming the rear tank mounts. My old FZ-07 had a plank as a seat. Nothing worse. Edit: I just did this, I went with 6mm shim under tank and front seat posts. (this is on high position) about all you can lift tank without binding of plastic on sides. I think I'm going to get longer bolts for the gas tank. Only in there about 4 or 5 turns. I can feel it just sitting on the bike, less forward lean. 👍 Got to wait for a ride till rain stops from Delta, probably tomorrow afternoon.

I think 20-50 is too heavy for the FJ-09 and almost any liquid cooled bike. Yamaha's chart for oil viscocities based on temp. is old school. it only applies at cold start up. Once warm, being liquid cooled, outside temp. is irrelevant. Honda has updated all its oil reccomendations to 10-30 in all bikes even air cooled ones. 10-40 for me forever in my FJ. Give that oil to someone with a hardly abelson.

Yeah ignition isn't cut it just stops going faster. I wonder if the ignition timing is retarded to nothing? I'll have a completely different bike next spring. ECU flash, all fluids changed, new handlebars, I just hope I don't go crazy with the $$$ from the boredom of winter.

I've got a station a bit out of the way from me but worth it. Just filled there with 90 octane E0 and wow! big difference! I've has this slight bog when taking off from a stop...Gone! More power! Smoother, less of that on off jerkiness, etc. I still had a gallon of crap gas in the tank too! Keep in mind I'm100% stock, when I get my tune I probably won't have this anymore. (It better!) I REALLY think most engines lately are running borderline doomsday lean now due to the EPA. NOT GOOD FOR ENGINES!😡 Finally had the urge and place to top it out, did it several times, it just accelerates to 114 MPH and stays there, weird feeling. Be glad when that's gone! Totally stable BTW, I did run my fork tubes up 10mm. So if your ECU is untouched, find some E0 and give it a try. https://www.pure-gas.org/

Same set up as my previous FZ-07. I made a loop out of string and pulled while twisting.

Good luck on your new bike deal! Good luck on all of us with the weather! So far a mild fall for more riding time till the snow flies! I've already doubled and then some the mileage on my new to me 2015 (Had it now 1 month today).A 2015 with 1k miles...Why do some people even buy bikes?

Sad to hear the origional chain is dying at 12k miles. I'm now lubing mine at least every 200 miles. Some tips on chains: Signs of wearing out. First you get kinks, then that red dust, then noise, vibration, can't set freeplay. To remove old chain just cut through the sideplates with cut off wheel on Dremel. AFTER removing countershaft nut. Why stress out or break your rivet tool needlessly. Cuts through quickly like butter. I always replaced front sprocket with every chain, rear every other chain. If you're going to change gearing, always go bigger. less stress on chain. Don't go smaller on front, go bigger on rear. Smaller front causes chain to curve tighter for more wear. For me, top of the line DID chain, nothing else. always got me to at least 20k miles on my CBR1100XX. I can't believe they even sell clip type master links anymore. Rivet only for me.

That sleeve should be tight in the bearing. Sounds like they both need replaced. Can probably buy a kit to replace all those bearings at the same time.