Suu Kyi

Hi, my 2019 GT started to do this on the weekend. Same problem so definitely the same issue. Question; can the front brake switch be disconnected completely while I wait for a replacement from the dealer? Means the brake light won't be activated by the front brake lever (the foot brake will) but will the cruise control still work? Just undo the screw holding it in and somehow secure the assembly? Thanks.

I use the two genuine Yamaha bags from my previous FJR, perfect fit and high quality, albeit a tad expensive. I try and stay with genuine OEM whenever possible.

Hi Doehle, I spent quite a bit on OEM accessories soon after I got the bike in June last year. I try and stick with OEM as find they're better quality and fit. Not saying aftermarket items are of poor quality but prefer OEM. So; starting from the front, Touring Screen (big improvement), Radiator guard (must have), Engine sliders (hopefully will never need them), Top Case (essential for touring), Denali Sound Bomb Mini (only aftermarket item, lower tone, works well). Tried FJR pegs with the rubber on top but they stuck out too far so have gone back to the original.

I had the genuine Yamaha Touring Screen fitted soon after I got the bike delivered. Improvement on the stock screen, some buffeting when following other vehicles, particularly large trucks etc but relatively quiet when riding through clean air (not behind another vehicle). Very happy with it.

Strange how many go from the FJR to the Tracer GT. I also did this last year after having the FJR for around 12 months and 18k kms. Was sad to part with it but decided to do so due mainly to the weight at around 300 kgs compared to the Tracer's 237 kgs. Absolutely loved the FJR in every way, smooth, comfortable and excellent wind protection. I'm 5ft 7ins and weigh 70kgs so the FJR was a bit of a challenge, especially when I dropped it halfway through a slow turn. Absolutely no regrets moving to the Tracer GT. Smooth and comfortable enough with all the features of the FJR. Not as good in the wind protection department but life is a compromise.

Cool thanks, makes sense, appreciate your prompt response.

Hi Mingo, noticed in your photo that you have your bike on the centre stand which is then on a dolly/trolley. This would allow manoeuvrability etc. The bit I'm curious about is how do you drive your bike's front wheel over it in the first instance, are the dolly wheels locked, is the belly of the dolly on the ground when you ride over and then raised before the centre stand is lowered etc. Also; where can you get these from and how much do they cost? Can I get one in Australia? Thanks.

Had an interesting experience this morning, bike started and rode ok but no indicators or hazard lights, everything else seemed to be working ok, including the headlights and high beam, couldn't check the tail or brake lights. Couldn't do much while on the move so waited until I pulled up at the traffic lights. Turned the engine off and turned the ignition back on; that's when I discovered that the key was not turned all the way to the right when I last turned on the ignition, legacy of fiddling with a gloved hand. Probably means that power was not being transmitted to all sources. Interesting and something to always keep in mind, turn it on all the way before putting gloves on as the key position can be a bit fiddly.

No worries, take it easy and enjoy your ride and the great company on this forum.............

Hi Dazz, no offence taken. My forum name Suu Kyi is after the Burmese Democracy Icon and State Counsellor Aung San Suu Kyi. You see I am originally from Myanmar, migrated here in 1969 but I have always respected Suu Kyi for her tenacity, hence my forum name. The registration plate on my Tracer also bears her name. All good and thanks for your clarification. Cheers, Michael.

Hi Dazz, pardon my ignorance but I'm unsure what you mean by "handle" so can you please explain. Reading Wordsmith's comments on the same subject hasn't made me any wiser. Not keen to arrive at my own conclusion as I'll probably get it wrong and embarrass myself Look forward to being enlightened.

Hi, I used to be 5ft 7.5 inches but lost half an inch due to gravity along the way. When I was looking to buy the Tracer last year I could just flat foot with the lower seat position but would've preferred being slightly lower to aid in comfort, safety and manoeuvrability. The dealer set up the demo bike with the OEM lowering kit (dog bones as you put it) for me to try, this included lowering the front forks as well. Yes, made a big difference but also introduced another problem; it made it difficult to hoist onto the centre stand as the bike was now lower so less leverage and more lifting required, due to the centre stand being closer to the ground. Bike also stood more upright on the side stand as that was also lower to the ground but not so much of an issue as the centre stand. Weighing it all up I decided not to have the bike lowered as it wasn't that much of an issue for me. You could go for the optional lower (thinner) seat. I also tried that on my previous bike (FJR 1300) where the dealer shaved off some of the padding but that also created another problem; I ended up with my knackers being pushed into the tank so he gave me a new seat which he ripped off a new bike on the floor. I have nothing but praise for Aurelio at 5 Star Yamaha in Hamilton Hill, Perth Western Australia, highly recommended for their service and friendliness. In summary; most modifications come with a trade-off and difficult to recommend as it's rarely one size fits all. In your case the more challenging centre stand lift may not work so maybe the OEM lower seat.

Hi, I installed the genuine Yamaha item, reasonably priced and very well made. Can see it in the attached photo I took of the Denali Mini Sound Bomb recently.

Hi Steve, I fitted one back in September last year, very easy plug & play, didn't need any modifications. Very pleased with the result as you'll see on my previous post below. I have a thing with horns doing what they are meant to do so also upgraded the horn on my car (Mitsubishi Pajero) with a Stebel Nautilus air-horn which I originally bought for a previous bike but proved too big so has been sitting in my workshop, works a treat on the 4WD. Happy isolation, same situation here in Perth Western Australia, make the best of it. Cheers, Michael

I haven't tried the lower seat but have tried the Yamaha lowering kit and yes it did lower the bike noticeably as the front forks are also lowered to keep the bike level. On the downside it made it harder to hoist the bike onto the centre-stand, remembering that the bike being lower you have further to lift and also the angle of the stand has been altered. In terms of height; in standard form I can only just flat-foot so wasn't really an issue for me but being harder to get onto the centre-stand was so didn't have the lowering kit installed on the new bike. I find the standard seat quite comfortable actually so no need to change.

Have tried the genuine OEM FJR pegs (my previous bike) and although a bit more comfortable, the FJR pegs are quite a bit longer, not an issue for me in terms of scraping but they interfered with my legs when walking the bike backwards or forwards from a seated position so have swapped back to the standards pegs, expensive lesson. There's an extensive discussion on this subject elsewhere on this forum.

Ditto for me as well, traded my FJR for the Tracer GT. Former got too heavy and although a great bike wasn't the right one for me, the GT is absolutely perfect.

Can sympathise with you, I'm just a tad taller at 5'7", used to be 5'7.5" but lost half an inch somewhere along the line. I use the lower seat setting on my GT and works fine for me. Tried one fitted with lowered suspension and although it does lower the bike considerably it also makes it a bit harder to hoist onto the centre stand as the whole bike is lower so a bit harder to lift. I've noticed on this lower seat accessory that the hump on the front of the seat is much more pronounced than the standard seat, probably because they've simply scalloped the padding in the middle and towards the front but left the front bit alone. I had this done to me previous bike (FJR1300) and had to have it reversed as it made me sit lower in the seat and pushed my knackers hard up against the front of the seat which made it very uncomfortable and even painful. The Kawasaki Versys and a few others have this sort of configuration where the hump on the front of the seat is very pronounced, may be ok for you. Something to keep in mind.

All the very best for the future and thanks heaps for all your wonderful advice and informative articles, all written with real passion. Thanks in particular for your offers and willingness to help. Look forward to hearing from you in this forum and learning from your vast experience..............

From stone cold, the thermostat opens at around 40c, I'm guessing this as prior to the gauge registering a temperature it says "Lo". Freeway cruising with the ambient temperature in the mid 20s the coolant temp is around the mid 70s, it will climb to around 85c in stop start traffic. Fan comes on at around 100c, I can hear this and also notice the temperature reduce slightly by a few degrees as a result.

You're spot on of course, I got the Nms and Fps mixed up, good job I ain't employed as a mechanic LOL.......In any case still feel the 111 fps is a bit on the high side so my 100 fps feels about right based on other machines which are around the 80 fp mark.

The owner's manual on the GT says 35mm to 45mm whilst up on the centre-stand. Mine was around 50mm measured with the Motion-pro chain slack tool so adjusted it back to specifications. Also; only tightened the axle nut to 100 Foot-Pounds, not 150 the manual says as that is way too tight from my perspective, more akin to doing up diesel head blocks. All my bikes have been around 89 - 90, hence the 100 fps for the GT. Rode it like that for a couple of days and noticed a grinding noise and felt some vibrations in the pegs on deceleration which wasn't there before. All that's changed is the chain tension so adjusted back to around 50mm slack, only this time I used my inbuilt devices to determine accuracy (my eyes, brain & hands). All good after this, the grinding noise has gone away. An observation; the alignment notches don't seem to have varied much before and after adjustment whereas the chain tension has, particularly noticeable when off the centre stand. Leads me to conclude that sometimes, tightening the axle nut can influence the chain tension, something to keep in mind. Setting aside the Motion-pro, Chain Monkey and the tape measure and trusting my own judgement and observations from here-on.

Have swapped back to the stock from the Niken pegs and they're ok. No more digging into the calves when stationary or back paddling. Don't know why I swapped as stock was not causing me any issues. Guess I experience this interference probably because I'm not that tall at 173cms (5'7") hence I need to keep my feet closer to the bike. Expensive exercise but there you go, just pleased the outcome is positive.

Yes I had to order the complete set-up for the Niken pegs from Yamaha and yes it was quite expensive, AUD 330. I've never experienced pegs catching on my calves (not that I can remember) so going to swap back to the billet stock pegs to see where the extra expense is justified.