flyfifer

For a Bagster Seat ! See posts above !

I tried my seat modified having done it successfully before. I felt it was a complete waste of time. Having bought the bike in 2019, new, I was reluctant to spend on a Bagster thinking surely Yamaha can't have made it as bad as it seems. Finally committing to the 300gb£ in 2020 improved enjoyment of the bike hugely and enabled use of the tank capacity, rather than enforced stops at 80miles or so. It's dreadfull that a tourer should be sold with an awfull seat but it is what it is. The bike is still a bargain imho.

Bob K, Save yourself the seat rework cost and pain in the aris---- Buy a Bagster Seat, NOW !

A two hundred mile tank range is compromised if you have to stop fifty miles in because your hands are burning !

I am not sure that Penetrating Oil is going to do contacts much good long term - but I am happy to be told otherwise.

OK. The ultimate test. Can you adjust the heated grips whilst riding ??

Divorces don't always work either as the second Divorce rate attests !

At £20 great British, I shall give it a miss with that Review !!

P.S. I did free up an indicator switch on a very new Triumph with WD40 as a one off and it never got sticky again !!

WD40 has also been my "go to" water displacement spray for many years --- but some folks hate it , citing damage to "the bits" with long term use. WD40 is however a cleaner come water disperser and whilst it's initially fluid state gives lubrication it is not a lubricant. Same with Servisol. The search is for a product that gives long term lubricity without loss of contact cleanliness. Folk seem to suggest that DeoxIT does that - at a price.

I have never heard of Caig DeoxIT D5 until reading this thread. Reading the spec it focuses heavily on conductivity and contact cleaning (like Servisol etc) but it does throw in Lubrication in one short phrase. Does it truly lubricate the mechanical parts of switches ? At £20 a can I need to be convinced !

I think the awkward feel to the "push switch" is because the switch is fundamentally nasty. It only very rarely feels like a nice soft positive action in my experience. I would be delighted if somebody could definitely say Lubricant X resolves the problem.

I too think the scroll wheel for heated grips is a complete pita. First time I had them on they were set high/,10 and after an hour my hands were burning. It was only luck that I managed to switch them off -- having poked at the wheel whilst riding to no avail and finally stopping to fiddle. The wheel does not have a nice soft positive feel to the press action. It is an absolute must to master it Static before riding - if you intend to use the heated grips. IMHO

Ditto. Dealers will offer at least ,£500 less at trade in if it's not there ,!🤔🌞

LeeS, you are going to get many contrary opinions on this topic. I am 29.5inside leg. I have a 2019 Tracer GT. Yes the bike is tall but feels nothing like the Specn suggests when you get on it. I have mine on the low seat setting. Yes, I would rather it was 25mm lower but it is manageable imo. Yes, you do have to look at the road camber when you are getting off but I never ever wish that I had not bought it. P.S. The OEM seat is really uncomfortable, goodness knows what Yamaha's pared down version feels like. Bagster rules.

Everything that is needed is here

PhotoAl, Having scrutinised your xlnt pics am I correct in identifying that your bash plate has --- A one piece mounting bracket that crosses the bash plate and is secured by Two sump bolts, at each Side -- and then to the "rear" of the bash plate. A mounting bracket is secured by Two sump bolts, at the Front of the sump - and to the "middle" of the bash plate.(similar to SWMotech/clone design). And finally A bracket from the RHS of the bash plate is secured to two engine Casing bolts. Have I got it correct ?? (I note also that the "upturned front exhaust protector section", of the bash plate, is welded to the sides of the bash plate --- which must make it more robust than for example the SWMotech design.)

It's for the "tool" kit and it is a pain to fit on the hooks.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DBRZBcZ5ghfc&ved=2ahUKEwik4P7-5eDpAhVYUhUIHRzcC4gQwqsBMAJ6BAgEEA0&usg=AOvVaw3 of_LvtTSKU4gAOnPA5oHhT-

For what it's worth I checked my dealer fitted Givi crash Bars to see if there were any "stampings" on the bars proclaiming Givi. There were not. I realise that "a negative" does not help your certainty !!

Could you post the eBay link to the item you bought, please. I had an eBay ex China clone on order recently but it did not get delivered (and I got a refund).

Ditto ref use of the space.

I cut mine out leaving only two or three mm of the original "wall" all the way round. I did it pretty crudely, with a "Stanley" knife, and tidied it up as I got some material cut out. Clearly Mr.Yamaha thought it was needed presumably to strengthen the "pan" so I guess you need to decide if your bike will be ok. It does wonders for storage though. I am sure many will have done it.

Look back up this thread to find the connector.

I would only add that it would be a good idea to add an inline fuse if you are going to use the aux supply without a relay or smart fuse box device. I am sure someone said what the current rating of the Yamaha Aux supply is but I don't recollect what it was.