kilo3

I would have done it before taking delivery if that was an option.

You "may" loose full clutch disengagement because you loose total throw. You'll have to play around with it, just yesterday I had do dial mine out a but because I was creeping at a stop light.

Moving where the arm sits does almost nothing (minus the minimal radius change in relation to the cable), you still have the same amount of travel and still need to have a set amount of slack.

Just a warning, if you go with a longer arm on the selector, you will have to have a longer pull on your clutch. For those with small hands as myself, wanting a cluch release just off the bars, a longer selector does not bode well. Ill never understand why others have a hard time conveying this, maybe it's me. It's levers, cams, and rope. Plain and simple. Clutch is on, off and a set distance traveled between. You can add a bigger selector arm for less force, but this will require longer travel. But then you might loose out on full disengage, especially with a shallow adjusted lever. You can add a shorter selector, requires more force, but less travel. This is essentially floppy time as the draw is now even shorter with stock levers. Either way you go. there is only one economical way to adjust the friction zone relative to the bars without pushing rope, adjustable levers. Bonus points for anyone that can find me a shorter selector arm but frankly I'm not sure my hands could take the abuse. Would love 1/2 -3/4 inch of travel between full off/on with the clutch.

By moving the cluch lever closer to the bars, you are adjusting the clutch friction zone relative to the bar. You just loose full stroke. No magic here.

Just buy proper adjustable levers and quit dicking around. I had no problem finding them for my 2020.

**not a paid endorsement, although I'm always open to kickbacks lol** After 4 months of searching for the right combination of maps, routes, tracking, recording...ect. I finally found the perfect do it all app for my travels. Let me start by saying, used ANDROID phones are CHEAP. Like dirt cheap. You can get a used motorola X4 (which is what I use) which is IP68 rated. And even then, you can pick them up for under 100 so they are practically cannon fodder at this point. There are many others to choose from as well, but that's what I chose. So, semi water resistant phone, no sim card or data. Turn on your hotspot on your personal phone all nice and tucked away, and boom, you have a fully connected GPS with data. You can also use offline maps as well if technology isn't your thing. The app itself is called GPX Viewer PRO. https://vecturagames.com/gpxviewerpro/ Its around 6 dollars USD, and I'm telling you it's amazing. You import GPX files from wherever, I tend to use: Log in – MyRoute-app: The #1 all-in-one route tool Find, make and share routes and export them to your GPS and navigation... Which i use only the free version to make my maps and export to my phone via email. This allows you to not only follow a route, but track speed, elevation, distance, time moving...and a host of other elements at the same time. You can even record as you follow a route which is super beneficial for updating a route or adding a cool road you find later on. Anyhow, if you're on the fence about a dedicated gps and getting frustrated with all the "motorcycle" apps that are pure rubbish, take a gander at this one.

Its not cheap. Almost all custom hose guys are mobile and you pay dearly for that. Unless you're taking, diy hose making, f that noise for me. Pressure crimped hoses all day for me.

Can I get your thoughts on this? I have the short racing version for the summer. Liked it so much, trying my luck again the the touring for spring/fall.

I now have 400 miles under my flash across 4 different days. I don't know if it's a combination of all the reading I did on the subject or maybe I've been screwed before from other canned tunes on other bikes, but this one actually does everything Ivan says it does. I keep waiting for the let down but it has yet to happen. I've experienced the placebo effect on other tunes only to snap back to reality the next day. Haven't had it yet. Pro's: Less overall vibrations (4-6k is still there sort of, now I have to actively search to find some vibrations) Easier to downshift/rev match Putzing (10-40 mph is effortless), also very easy to handle at u turn speeds STD and B drive modes are now completely useless (std mode was my go to before, now it's A all day) Ultra smooth on any acceleration from a closed or partially closed throttle. Of course all the speed limitations, cruise control...ect. Con's: Wiff of gas coming to a stop light, smells like a motorcycle now Probably less MPG, but I haven't noticed. I usually get high 30's so that has not changed (I see 11k on the rev counter every ride) Because the bike is now much smoother, remind yourself that 3rd gear is over 100 clicks on the fun meter. Moot: Engine sounds a bit different, especially in the 4-6k range QS sounds a bit different going from 1-2, no change in quality of QS, mines pretty smooth from the get go Legalities aside, If I was a yamaha dealer, this would be on every 900 that went out the door.

New shorty windshield I got for fathers day. Puig racing smoke.

Don't forget about the drive modes. Heck I stayed in B mode for a good two weeks just to get a feel.

I think I are just going to go with my gut and go for the cardo , 220 usd from the getting spot is pale in comparison to the 6k we're going to spend on gear and a bike for da wife.

If you've been living under a rock, watch this video: Take note, its not about what it is now, but rather what it will become.

Rears I've gambled on before, no way on fronts.

No comment on the rest, but the headlight modulator might be tough with the LED and all.

Oh boy! Ran out quick during lunch to pop it in to make sure the bike starts, that's as far as I got. Must resist the urge to rush the bike back together after work!

Do you feel the bluetooth is is good enough for a pair of riders? I don't foresee ever being very far away from the other unit.

Does anyone have any real world experience with headsets? Since I'm on the verge of having two on the road at once, I thought it would be nice to get some intercoms between bikes. I've had terrible luck with youtube reviews, they are all regurgitated canned sponsored bullshit. I'm leaning towards the cardo freecom 2+ but if anyone would have some input on usage that would be great. My main concern is if we get too far apart, with bluetooth, does the coms automatically link back up if they were previously paired? Any other suggestions for a mid range coms set?

That's a odd spot to get a false shift 🤨

Motorcycle maintenance is like lawn care. The older you get, the more time you have to to putz about nothing that matters.

"They" have been saying that since the late 90's.

Love that stuff.

FYI this is well documented across the entire FZ/MT lineup. They all do it to some extent, some worse than others, some hardly at all.

I have 1mm on my 2020. You can always toss a second plastic washer between the grip and housing to snug it up if it doesn't bind.