kilo3

That's quite the upgrade from a bolt!

So far so good on the twelve o'clock labs.

Just to confirm for anyone looking at adding a throttle tamer to a 19+ with OEM heated grips. Yes it's possible to remove them, yes it's easy. What you need: WD-40 or lubricant of choice. Flux brush or other similarly stiff/thin metal. Remove that bar end nonsense. Roll that metal about the same arc as your tube, lightly give the metal a whiff of something slippery, and just ram it home. You'll have to pull it out and drive it home at least 4 times depending upon your circumference of metal. Now remove the throttle housing stuff, grab the end where the cables are with one hand, grab the grip with your other, and just twist your way to freedom. Clean up the residual glue if you feel any shame. This took all of 10 mins. Not a single gouge or scrape on the oem tube or inside the heated grip. ****EDIT, if you are looking for the G2 Throttle tamer for your 19+ Tracer GT, you will want to order the 152mm throttle tube, please consult G2's tech support before ordering or measure yours first (entire length of tube). The previous model and base Tracer 900 have different throttle tubes. Confusing but they are working on getting the models correct.

Always brake cleaner I suppose. I already bought a new tube/grip if it goes south.

More parts coming in. Little worried about getting the heated grip off the throttle tube and back on the throttle tamer, but we'll see I guess.

Perhaps, kind of, it only has two MAP sensors. Two far right throttle bodies share the same, and the far left has one. So in theory, if the far right TB is "set" you can adjust the middle and far left based upon some math. Unfortunately the dealer software is guarded better then most automotive auto makers.

You have all winter to buy parts!!! Let us know if you need any help spending your money.

I've had them on a YZ250, and will be getting one for the rear when I wear out my current 47T rear. They look cool and work, but really it's just for the looks. Nothing performance wise cutting out a breakfast here and there couldn't cure.

Santa gave us a full set of 12 oclock labs turn signals for my bike and the wife got lowering links and a bigger windshield. Now to work up the courage to work in a frozen garage. Wish Santa would have bought a garage heater instead, maybe the government will help with that in the form of a stimulus package that I'll be paying interest on for the next 70 years. 😧

If anyone runs into this, a side hit on the security pin with a punch and hammer will quickly turn the security torx into a plain old torx.

I just use glass cleaner.

I'm going to go against the grain here and say that b mode and standard are pretty poor. I much prefer A, however it's too aggressive off idle. I wish there was a way to map the throttle input much like an equalizer for audio. My solution this winter is two fold: #1, reduce throttle pull, i have wrist issues and this may be a large source of my problem: #2, i may also try the throttle tamer to help with the low level inputs. What I want, but not possible, is B mode for 1/3 throttle and A mode for anything above 1/3.

Nope, I call marketing BS 101 on that one. Funny how "they had to do a lot of work to meet emissions" can be spun into "a pleasing exhaust note without being obnoxiously loud" I remember when the euro standard for pedestrian safely came out and everyone had to raise bumper/hood heights. Every manufacturer claimed a "more aerodynamic and streamlined look", but no just regulatory BS being spun up.

As with anything from PRC, how closely the manufacturing is watched is key. The land of china is great for low cost labor, but damn do they try to sneak shit materials and cut corners any chance they get.

This may sound silly, but why not just use some big ass heat shrink tubing?

Use a pick and back them out, just the way it is.

Welcome to the internet, it used to be just fake internet points, now these morons get paid for clicks.

A lot of this depends of you level of comfort with safety measures for which I have a large tolerance. What I do, with the bike on the center stand, I simply remove the rear wheel. Then I use a floor jack on the header with a padded chunk of wood to slightly raise the front, remove, then lower the front forks on a tall block of wood. Loosen all axles, calipers, speed sensors...ect before doing the center stand tango. Same goes for tightening, get the wheels on, then tighten everything up. No lube on the axles, besides maybe slight antiseize or oil for corrosion. I also don't use locktite, but I check things regularly.

No offense, but I wouldn't touch anything from Klim thats not snowmobile gear. They are going heavy into that right now and neglecting the quality on their moto gear right now.

I can't wait to scoop up one of those Ford broncos that will be up for sale when gas goes back to 3-4 bucks a gallon.

^ I hate articles like that, it's just regurgitated bs from a yamaha press release without any thought or insight.

I was originally saddened by all the features they added having bought a 2020 this spring, seating, electronics, suspension... but damn I'm glad I have a 2020, can't stand that front end.

Saved my tank, IIRC its a 16 dollar part, just needed a new side faring and the top plastic around tank.

Its a sacrificial part to protect the tank when you drop it.

No real difference, the thought is if you remove the ground first, there's less of a chance accidentally shorting on something when removing the positive.