kilo3

Wet sanding takes a lot of the sparkle out of it and frankly I'm done with this whole adventure. Final coat of clear goes on friday and it will be what it is. Right now it's a varying mix of orange peel for surface texture, but glitters like mad and that's really all she wanted. Looks like weather wise we'll be assembling this weekend.

Well I feel shame, clearing over glitter was a bad choice. Should have knocked it down. I'll be in wetsand hell for a while.

It was found that you usually introduce more foreign matter with grease zerks. Now lower tolerance applications you'll still see it, like my snowblower has at least 6-7.

I'll have to bust out the fuzzy assless chaps and cruise some construction sites.

Well against my thoughts, the consensus is to at least do one pass of clear, probably 2, then wetsand. Really sparkles now, brought out the correct color at least. Here's one very light coat of 2k clear with small run but that was my only one on all the prieces.

Mine was 380 out the door, spring sale at my local shop.

I don't even bother to look at price, model, features, brand... I just go to my local shop and start putting on helmets till something just clicks with me. Did that this weekend, ended up in a HJC rpha 11 pro. I just hope it rides as good as it fits.

Yeah the foot rest brackets are still available but the add on tabs for the bags are NLA. That's what it was.

Washed it, sort of, I just wipe down the shiney bits. I even did my semi-yearly chain clean!

@texscottydi No idea either, I'd think it would be more sparkly if I cleared first, but then who knows if I'd ever get it level like you said. I asked my local fagepager as well, I know I got some garage spray booth people to bounce it off as well.

All the glitter. Since there's a lot of glitter sticking out of the paint, wonder if I should knock it down first then clear?

The trick is to get the brackets from the previous model FJ09 and use them, however they are NLA and no one has dipped their hands into recreating a set. There was a post about someone going to make them but like all things like that on the internet, fizzles into nothing.

This is one of those rare occasions I'd hoof it across the boarder then ship it domestically in the US. Too many people doing canned tunes too well in the states to diy it personally.

I like to adjust my chain slack on the fly while I'm riding, that way as the chain warms up I can tighten it to exacting specifications. Sure it takes an hour extra stopping every 10 miles to adjust, but man do I feel better about it being right in the sweet zone.

I'd buy a lottery ticket with that kinda luck!

That is unless you got that batch of stabil from 2012-13ish, which turned everything it touched into red gel hell in a few months. Never phucking again. Regular non-oxy is all it takes.

Urhhh I couldn't Imagine riding a sled without more wind protection. I mean I get it, in deep powder on a snowbike it's a phucking workout, going slow with the throttle pinned, but otherwise, brrrrrr.

1. Nope, just pin the throttle and pull up on the shifter. The faster you are accelerating, the better it works. 2. Yep. 2.5 Nope

Think of it more this way: Garmin connects to your phone, your phone connects to sena. Anything Garmin wants to send audio wise is just addition to what's already happening on your phone.

Parts are ready but I'm not. Dang it if this winter isn't slipping away from me. Haven't touched my wife's pink conversion in two weeks, had to trade in a car due to pending doom, paid way too much for a new one. Somehow have to fit the degronkification and valves into the timeline.

He's referring to a OBD2 scanner, this ain't no grocery store. But yeah get a cheapo scanner and the obd to 4 pin adapter for Yamaha and you'll be on your way. My guess is you ran the bike in gear on the center stand thus pissing off the abs and throwing a code. This is highly debatable, but in our area it's generally frowned upon starting a motorcycle to "keep things moving" in the winter. Let them sleep, you won't burn off the condensation in the oil nor the muffler.

All the peices are done with base except two that some child got his fingers into. Have to start over on them. Almost too pretty and smooth to clear really. Another week then glitter.

How aggressive would you get with the wetsand? 600 grit? Would 1500 be enough for it to grab on?

Anyone good with autobody? So here's my conundrum. I have to fix a few runs and pinholes in the base coat which will require some sanding. Do I need to wet sand the entire piece or just the areas that need some love to apply more base? All the parts have hardened and gassed out. All the information I can gleam from the internet is wet/wet auto painting. Not joe blow garage rattle can.

Sounds about right, these bikes, in fact most modern bikes, are quite picky about voltage.