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On 8/30/2021 at 8:44 PM, 1moreroad said:

Posted this before. This was on a paved road. When you make the sump out of tin foil....

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I'm thinking of siliconing a piece of high density foam or rubber on the front side of my sump.  It may have prevented the damage in the picture above.  I don't like the looks of a protector or it's price or the potential case damage in the event of a hard hit.  A new sump cover can be had for $147, half the price of some protectors.

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Penny wise and dollar foolish IMO.

#1  a protective pad will block cooling air flow to sump, and if a piece of aluminum sheet metal is bonded to the foam or rubber guard, it MAY save the sump.  Getting the rubber or foam to stick to a painted sump that heats up to over 180 F could be a problem.

#2  a skid plate like the SW-Mototech also protects the headers, and IMO adds to the utilitarian style of our bikes.

#3  a skid plate also protects the bottom of the sump pan.

#4  damage to the headers and/or sump is costly and a PITA to repair/replace, and can be avoided with a skid plate in most instances.

#5 how much is piece of mind worth? 

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I found the SW Motech to be an easy install and it's easy to remove for oil changes.

It seems to strike the balance between adequate protection, cost, and utility.

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2015 FJ-09 / FJR touring bags / oil plug mod / Evotech rad guard / SW Motech bash plate / VStream touring windshield / Seat Concepts:  Sport Touring / Vcyclenut ABS rings (speedo correction) / Cosmo RAM mount

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  • 5 months later...
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A warning to all who install skid plates that installed skid plates similar to the SW Mototech skid plate.

 I've been running one for many thousands of miles and just noticed some some sepage at the sump pan on the right front bolt.

 As I'm not ready to change the oil yet even though I can do so without removing the Pan because I drilled a hole underneath the underneath the drain bolt on my original 15 oil pan, It took me forever to finally tighten up the tighten up that bolt; don't ask me how I did it but I managed. I found the right rear also loose though it wasn't seeping significantly and one on the left side toward the rear  somewhat loose, and the center center left bolt gone!

Now I originally tightened up all the bracket bolts for the skid plate to torque but didn't apply thread sealant to them 1st.

I managed to replace the missing bolt without removing the skip plate and used loctite on it this time.

 When I next change the oil I'm going pull the skid plate, remove all of the bolts, apply loctite and retension them.

 So you have been warned!

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I have an SRC skid plate and have been happy with it.  I can pull the spin plate off for oil changes without removing any o the mounting bolts that are in the engine block.  I have pulled it off several times for oil changes without issue. Going to look at drilling a hole in the front so can get an extension thru to undo my drain plug so will not have to remove it for oil changes.  The Tracer 900 is a bit light in the front so a little more weight near the front wheel doesn't bother me.

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The SW-MOTOTECH skid plate also is normally removed without touching the mounting bracket bolts that fasten up the sump pan.  6 small FHSD screws fasten the plate to the brackets.

I like it because it is so minimalist and aero that doesn't block cooling air flow much at all.

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9 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

The SW-MOTOTECH skid plate also is normally removed without touching the mounting bracket bolts that fasten up the sump pan.  6 small FHSD screws fasten the plate to the brackets.

I like it because it is so minimalist and aero that doesn't block cooling air flow much at all.

Same. I ended up coughing up the ridonkulous $$$ for the SW-Motech because it seemed the sturdiest; none of the other options seemed like they would do much good.

I make sure to use anti-seize on those wee lil' screws, and spritz them with penetrating elixir beforehand. It's easy enough to get the thing out of the way for oil changes.

The threads in the engine cases are just M6 in aluminum, and will eventually wear out and cause problems if you take them out for every oil change.

Last time around, I drilled a hole in the plate below the drain plug so the whole thing can stay in place. I'm not sure why it doesn't have this hole already, but it's easy enough to make your own hole with a step drill.

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On 6/10/2021 at 4:20 AM, peteinpa said:

Ouch, that hurts. Glad you're OK. Nice caring boss.

As said, it did snap off a section of the engine case. It might be totalled sorry to say.

I don't think any skid plate would have saved it.

Nah it won't be totaled! When I damaged my Tracer in my move to California, I had a chop saw come free and slide into the bottom of the bike. Took out the case right about the same spot as the picture shows. Although I didn't have any exhaust pipe damage like you appear to have. Unfortunately, this was during COVID, and it took a very long time for them to get replacement parts to fix it. I think I spent 6-8 months before I got the bike back again in working order. On the good news side, they did a great job, and it has been working great for about 1 1/2 years.

Hope the supply chain is better now for your fix, it really sucked having to live without the bike for so long........ 

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1 hour ago, oregonian said:

 It's not entirely clear but it looks like in order to install this one you need to remove the protective cover for the coolant recovery bottle.

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On 10/16/2022 at 7:28 PM, PhotoAl said:

I have an SRC skid plate and have been happy with it.  I can pull the spin plate off for oil changes without removing any o the mounting bolts that are in the engine block.  I have pulled it off several times for oil changes without issue. Going to look at drilling a hole in the front so can get an extension thru to undo my drain plug so will not have to remove it for oil changes.  The Tracer 900 is a bit light in the front so a little more weight near the front wheel doesn't bother me.

I also have the SRC in black.  Has been nothing but great, looks good, and has done it's job on a few occasions.  Definitely worth every penny. 

 

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23 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 It's not entirely clear but it looks like in order to install this one you need to remove the protective cover for the coolant recovery bottle.

Good observation. Thx! While the base price is reasonable shipping adds quite alot. 

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