Don't use auto oil in your motorcycle

[TomTracer]

Wanna start on WD40? Or maybe Dynabeads? Nah!

[texscottyd]

45 minutes ago, fddriver2 said:

An oil thread doing the oil thread thing........ 🤣

I think someone just needs to produce a JASO EEE 5WD-40-50-T6 blend.

Make everyone happy!  😉

[PhotoAl]

23 hours ago, daboo said:

I look at the manufacturer's description of the reason for the oil to be a "motorcycle" oil, and to me it is just a bunch of marketing hype to get me to pay a lot more for a "motorcycle" oil, than engine oil.  My Subaru's turbocharged engine gets hot...probably just as hot as my motorcycle engine does.  And I can't believe the lubrication requirements on the turbocharged engine are any less than those on my motorcycle's engine are. 

Chris

I used to on the same page on turbocharged engine oil until I had a couple of VW 1.8t engines that cooked Mobile 1 which really surprised  me.  Biggest problem with a turbocharged engine is the turbo bearings.  Those cars went away and I’ve only got one VW left.  I’ve run all kinds of oils in my bikes over the years from OEM conventional to Rotella T5 and T6 to Motul to Costrol to Mobile 1 etc.  They seem to each be a tiny bit different in shifting feel or whatever but in general oil is oil and what is most important is regular oil changes.  

What I find curious is the US Tracer GT owners manual states 4,000 mile oil changes and the British Tracer GT owners manual states 6,000 mile oil changes.  This has been discussed in a thread on this forum so you can look it up.  I would look it up and post link here but I’m feeling lazy this morning.

Thanks for the OP posting up, a good issue to bring up from time to time so new owner learn to use motorcycle oil, not car oil and why it’s important.

[fddriver2]

7 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

I used to on the same page on turbocharged engine oil until I had a couple of VW 1.8t engines that cooked Mobile 1 which really surprised  me.  Biggest problem with a turbocharged engine is the turbo bearings

I used to have a 7.3 powerstroke. 250,000+ miles under what was sometimes a heavy load. Now I have a 3.5 ecoboost. 

New turbochargers spin at +150,000 rpms.

That creates a bunch of heat on the vanes , housing and the bearings. When you slide in for fuel after a long run. Let It Idle for a few minutes.

That allows for the system to reduce the heat built up in the bearings and vanes. When you just shut the engine off it allows the heat to cook the trapped/static oil.

If you have a turbocharged anything, let it idle for a minute or so. 

Twin-Parallel Turbochargers

The 3.5L F-series EcoBoost V6 engine uses twin parallel BorgWarner K03 turbochargers which can spin up to 170,000 RPM and provides up to 15 psi of boost pressure. On the other side, the transverse 3.5L EcoBoost V6 uses a twin Garrett GT1549L turbocharger which has lesser boost pressure at 11 psi. The engine consumes 25% more air than its naturally aspirated counterparts.

These turbochargers are mounted to high-strength cast-iron low internal volume exhaust manifolds. After going through the turbo, exhaust gases travel through fast-cat converters to keep emissions low levels. The charge pipes, stock intercooler end tank, and intake manifold are made

[Husqy]

On 11/13/2021 at 8:04 AM, Garz747 said:

Why does Yamaha expressly say not to use diesel oil in the tracer 900 owners manual? I know many bikers are using Rotella diesel.

Ability to reject warranty claims for no good reason and maybe because they are losing out on oil sales. Like anything else in life - money.

But also, its probably the same reason why your coffee cup says 'May contain hot liquid'. Customers are dumb and probably would slap any old oil in there without doing any research on it. Yamaha is covering their butt by telling you not to.

[whisperquiet]

I bought a new Tenere 700 in July 2020 and a new Super Tenere two weeks ago.   Both were/are serviced with Yamalube and Yamaha OEM filters while under the factory warranty just to avoid any problems with Yamaha.  Both bikes will be serviced with oil and filters that meet Yamaha specs when beyond the warranty time frame.  

[pilninggas]

On 11/13/2021 at 4:31 PM, daboo said:

Like others, I use Rotella T6, 5W-40.  It's not exactly per the spec viscosity, but after a minute or so, it's warmed up and no longer a thin 5 weight oil.  At 80,000 miles on this bike with no oil usage between changes, it seems to be okay.  

I look at the manufacturer's description of the reason for the oil to be a "motorcycle" oil, and to me it is just a bunch of marketing hype to get me to pay a lot more for a "motorcycle" oil, than engine oil.  My Subaru's turbocharged engine gets hot...probably just as hot as my motorcycle engine does.  And I can't believe the lubrication requirements on the turbocharged engine are any less than those on my motorcycle's engine are. 

One thing I've noticed over the years, is we motorcyclists tend to baby our motorcycles.  Got to check those valves right at the maintenance interval.  Got to have the perfect oil in it.  Etc.  But our cars?  Valves?  Who checks those?  Just get in the car and start it up.  Oil?  Whatever Jiffy Lube wants to put in it, is great.  And the cars commonly run 200K or more if we keep them long enough.

Chris

To be fair most cars have hydraulic lifters that automatically adjust the clearance/lash. Motorcycles dont/cant have this as the rev ceilings tend to be much higher and the mass of the valve system has to be a lot lighter to avoid exceeding the stress limits of the alloys used. Unless a lifter packs up on a car [sometimes you can hear an engine that has a habitually stuck lifter when cold - a tick that goes away after 20 seconds] then there is zero chance of a valve burning out due to not closing fully, where as a bike which has clearances out of adjustment runs a real risk of burning out a valve and doing some expensive damage. Having said all that I have checked a lot of valves of a lot of bikes [including some 20-valve heads] and have only seen a few exhaust valves that really made me think: 'wow, that is close to valve not sealing and being burned-up'.

The maddest thing about jap bikes is that the clutch material wears down and into the oil - which is circulating to lube the entire engine. It's a very contrary design imo, but the manufacturers like it as the costs of manufacture are low and the japs really are quite stuck in their conventions on engine design (very little has changed in 25 years in their engine designs) - it just means oil should be changed at the designated intervals to ensure the oil isnt excessively loaded with clutch particles.

 

Oil threads are the work of the devil....

[maximNikenGT]

Just saw this video from Revzilla that goes into this very subject. What I didn't realize is that historically there never used to be a difference between oils  used in cars vs motorcycles, but with  fuel efficiency being scrutinized so heavily in modern years this has prompted the evolution  to very specific  oil blends focused on the unique operating environment of motorcycle engines.

 

 

 

[bwringer]

On 11/14/2021 at 10:29 AM, TomTracer said:

Wanna start on WD40? Or maybe Dynabeads? Nah!

Oh hell no, don't wake up the Beadists.

[KrustyKush]

Most motorcycles have unit engine-transmissions that run everything in the same oil bath. There are only one or two that use dry clutches. The unit design is very good. The oil filter removes the debris, and in any case the debris doesn’t hurt anything. 

These designs are nearly universal and have been in use for many decades. There should be no worries about unit engines and transmissions.   How many FJRs and Goldwings still running way past 100k miles using these designs?
 

[Husqy]

On 2/2/2022 at 2:14 PM, maximNikenGT said:

Just saw this video from Revzilla that goes into this very subject. What I didn't realize is that historically there never used to be a difference between oils  used in cars vs motorcycles, but with  fuel efficiency being scrutinized so heavily in modern years this has prompted the evolution  to very specific  oil blends focused on the unique operating environment of motorcycle engines.

 

 

 

So 4:45 in the video he specifically mentions that you can use JASO MA/MA2 oil in your bike... which Rotella T6 is. Do whatever you want, but I will continue to pay half price for my oil that has never given me (or any riders in my network) issues over the long term

[maximNikenGT]

On 2/4/2022 at 11:16 PM, Husqy said:

So 4:45 in the video he specifically mentions that you can use JASO MA/MA2 oil in your bike... which Rotella T6 is. Do whatever you want, but I will continue to pay half price for my oil that has never given me (or any riders in my network) issues over the long term

One key clarification on his comment, upon further review the one exception that he notes at 4:45 is if you are stranded somewhere without access to proper motorcycle oil that JASO MA/MA2  will work temporarily if you're left with no other alternatives. I can think of plenty of motorcycle rides through the mountains, desert, or other  destinations worldwide where access to motorcycle oil blends won't be readily available on your convenience store shelves.  

[Husqy]

I think the fact that thousands of riders worldwide are willing to vouch for Rotella T6 oil should speak volumes to folks.

I find many riders to be so finicky about the specifics. I've even read people on this forum say that the FJ09 is 'unrideable' with the stock suspension, meanwhile I have no issues with it whatsoever when riding with all my sport bike groups (and I weigh 205 lbs). A bit dramatic if you ask me... I would say 99% of people who ride aren't pushing their bikes to the limits they are designed for, but will blame the equipment anyways.

Rotella T6 works for everyone I've ever met who uses it - your bike will be fine.

I'll leave it at that on my side; thank you for the discussion! 

Edited February 7, 2022 by Husqy

[bwringer]

Nicely stated, Husqy.

Although I do have to say the FJ-09 is the first bike I've owned where the stock seat pretty much lived up to its reputation as a torture device. 

Every moto-forum is jam-packed with whiners whining about the seat, but in this case it really is almost as bad as advertised.

[daboo]

I've been using Rotella T6 "temporarily" in my motorcycles for the last 180,000 or so miles.  None of the bikes have used any oil.  The last bike has over 80,000 on it, and runs like new.

I think I'll stick with my non-motorcycle diesel truck oil.  

Chris