Jump to content

Shim brand recommendations - or more importantly - what to avoid.


dazzler24

Recommended Posts

  • Supporting Member
6 hours ago, skipperT said:

dimpling will actually REDUCE the valve clearances, because the shim may be marginally smaller.

OK?  Have I been looking at this all wrong?  I would have thought that digging a hole into the bottom of the shim by the top of the valve stem (dimpling) would have reduced the shim thickness marginally, as you have mentioned, with the effect being that the tappet bucket would move away from the cam resulting in a larger valve clearance.  All very small of course.

But if that's not the case then I'm not understanding this correctly and need more schooling in the black arts of valve clearance. 🙂

Footnote:  Isn't the general rule - use smaller shims to increase the valve clearances?

 

image.png.ee1f3d922af1b513c28ad33d36aa4b70.png

  • Thumbsup 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member
On 3/20/2022 at 11:50 AM, dazzler24 said:

Thanks.  This post is timely as I only sent off a request last night for a quote for 1.7-2.1 shims in 0.05 increments (x4 ea).  If they are still $3.00AU each then that will cost me around $108.  Looks like I can buy Hotcams, for example, off the bay of fleas for the same price and that gets me a larger size range but only 3 of each.

By all accounts it would appear that the range I'm looking at should do me along with the existing shims.

Well, I got a reply from Precision Shims in Melbourne.  The good news is that they can supply but the bad news is that the price is not AU$3.00 a shim but now $5.50 each.   That puts the total cost delivered for the range I asked for at  ~$170 for 28 shims (4 x ea size - 0.05 increments).

I can get a ProX kit also in 0.05 increments (3 x ea size) in a wider size range (quantity 111 shims) for ~$180 delivered.   Hmmm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
1 hour ago, dazzler24 said:

Well, I got a reply from Precision Shims in Melbourne.  The good news is that they can supply but the bad news is that the price is not AU$3.00 a shim but now $5.50 each.   That puts the total cost delivered for the range I asked for at  ~$170 for 28 shims (4 x ea size - 0.05 increments).

I can get a ProX kit also in 0.05 increments (3 x ea size) in a wider size range (quantity 111 shims) for ~$180 delivered.   Hmmm.

It's a no brainer to me

Pro X and HC kits are were 65~ 75 USD shipped here

Pro X  each are $1.95

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member
2 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

It's a no brainer to me

Pro X and HC kits are were 65~ 75 USD shipped here

Pro X  each are $1.95

 

Yea, I'm going to have a close look at shipping costs from US to AU. - US$1.95 = AU$2.63 today.

65~75 = AU$88~101

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

OK?  Have I been looking at this all wrong?  I would have thought that digging a hole into the bottom of the shim by the top of the valve stem (dimpling) would have reduced the shim thickness marginally, as you have mentioned, with the effect being that the tappet bucket would move away from the cam resulting in a larger valve clearance.  All very small of course.

But if that's not the case then I'm not understanding this correctly and need more schooling in the black arts of valve clearance. 🙂

Footnote:  Isn't the general rule - use smaller shims to increase the valve clearances?

 

image.png.ee1f3d922af1b513c28ad33d36aa4b70.png

Oh of course, you’re correct, Daz! I’m off my rocker and wrote it out completely opposite. 

Yes, wear on the shim will INCREASE the clearance thereby giving you a measurement with a feeler gauge that’s actually larger than the numbers of the shim would suggest. 

thank you for catching that!

-Skip

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member
5 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Oh of course, you’re correct, Daz! I’m off my rocker and wrote it out completely opposite. 

Yes, wear on the shim will INCREASE the clearance thereby giving you a measurement with a feeler gauge that’s actually larger than the numbers of the shim would suggest. 

thank you for catching that!

-Skip

No worries.  Good to see that you too are human 🙂 👍

You had me worried that I'd lost it completely there.  That'll happen eventually though I guess. 😏

Anyway, thanks for the response and clarification. 👌

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All this flapping about shims got me paranoid about mine. 🤣

Pulled the cover today and they are still in spec at 50,000 km, although closer to the smaller side. I’m wondering if the angle of the valve/cam cover surface is causing a slight drag on the gauge and making people think they are a little tighter than they are? I suppose you could always insert the gauge from the rear to check.

Not doing big k’s anymore sharing the commuting with the hilux. I’ll check them again at 60k and see how they are then.

 

  • Thumbsup 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
5 hours ago, Buggy Nate said:

All this flapping about shims got me paranoid about mine. 🤣

Pulled the cover today and they are still in spec at 50,000 km, although closer to the smaller side. I’m wondering if the angle of the valve/cam cover surface is causing a slight drag on the gauge and making people think they are a little tighter than they are? I suppose you could always insert the gauge from the rear to check.

Not doing big k’s anymore sharing the commuting with the hilux. I’ll check them again at 60k and see how they are then.

 

If one knows what they're doing, meaning insertion from whichever side offers the straightest shot, feeler guage drag is what it is based on experience given oil on the interfaces.

Also, I often double check with a series of go-no-go type feeler guage sizes when access is awkward.

One reason I like a manual CCT is the ability to tighten the cam chain temporarily over tight to take its clatter (rattle) out of the equation when listening to the valves.  Then, when well up to op temp, I back out the CCT until the cam chain JUST starts to rattle, then I lock it down.  With an APE, a 4 mm ball end Allan wrench and 11/16" open end wrench (spanner) makes it a 3 minute job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member
11 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Thanks Bret for going to the trouble.  I actually found a link on Amazon for some Hot Cams before you posted that and they are now on the way from your shores to the antipodes.

I am amused at the info in the first link you posted that points to a Pro X kit.  The words say: Country of origin-Japan but the label on the box says made in China.  Forest knew all along - Life's like a box 'a chocolates....you never know whut choo gonna get. 😏

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member

Ok, the weather is shite here for the next couple of days and I can do no other pending domestic jobs so at 5PM I decided that I'm going in!

2 hours later, thanks to all the clear instructions I've gleaned here, I'm at this stage......

20220328_184303.thumb.jpg.7348f58c9245fb0364a497afa572631c.jpg

 

Tomorrow I'll check the lash.  Shims that I've ordered aren't here yet but I 'expect' them tomorrow.

  • Thumbsup 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Your #1 LT intake lobe heel is trashed!

Hoooohaaaa😱

You talking about the black stuff on the backside of the cam lobe, upper right hand corner of the picture?

'15 FJ09

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×