All Valves In Spec @ 21K!

[nhchris]

Now here's something you don't often hear on this site....

At my first valve inspection at 21k miles ALL my valves were within spec on my 2016 FJ09.

The inspection was done by a Yami dealer.  I stressed to him I was happy to pay for the re-shiming and wanted it done if needed.

I picked up the bike today and was told no valves were out of spec and no adjustment was required.  Here are the numbers the tech noted:

RANGE        .260mm - .300mm                  110mm - .200mm  

CYL 1.  EX - .279mm  .270mm          INT -- .152mm.    .178mm

CYL  2  EX - .279mm.  .279mm         INT --  .152mm     .127mm

CYL 3  EX -  .30mm     .279mm.        INT --   .152mm.  .152mm

Needless to say, I was shocked.  99% of what is reported here about valves indicates exhaust valves will be really tight at the first inspection.  I don't doubt your findings, but I guess I'm a one per-center!

For those that think the dealer might have been lazy and just made up the numbers, I wondered about that also. Then I realized he lost $400 in pure labor by not re-shimming.  (Estimate was $850 and bill ended up being $450. )

The old air filter was filthy and should have been changed 10k mikes ago.  The old plugs were well worn and probably the originals.  Should have been replaced at 15k.

On one hour ride home the bike ran very strong thanks to new plugs and TB sync.  Life is strange!

Edited February 3, 2023 by nhchris

[kilo3]

I'd buy a lottery ticket with that kinda luck!

[johnmark101]

That really is highly unusual.  I have a 2019 Tracer GT and had my first valve inspection done at 21,000 by an independent mechanic.  I also had the spark plugs and air filter replaced at this time.  

All exhaust valves were tight as was one intake valve.  Throttle sync was also done.  Total labor cost was 400 bucks.

[draco_1967]

That does seem to be rare! I just finished mine a few weeks ago, and at 25k miles, all valves were out of spec. Definitely time for a lottery ticket!

[texscottyd]

14 hours ago, nhchris said:

At my first valve inspection at 21k miles ALL my valves were within spec on my 2016 FJ09.

The exception that proves the rule...  you just never know.  

The nature of an internet forum is that you tend to hear more about problems and anomalies.   Maybe there are more that are 'in spec' than we tend to believe,  but we just don't hear about them?   Regardless, enjoy your good luck and your $400! 

[fr8dog]

16 hours ago, nhchris said:

The old air filter was filthy and should have been changed 10k mikes ago.  The old plugs were well worn and probably the originals.  Should have been replaced at 15k.

That's awesome! Mine were tight at 26k and 52k. Plugs and air filter were toast. I change those sooner now. 

The two dealers I've used were reasonably priced and good to work with. I'd like to put all of that cash in my pocket, but I don't feel comfortable taking cams out and so on. 

[bwringer]

In my garage, I still would have changed the shims on five of the EX and one IN valve to get them as close to the higher spec as possible.

But when you stir in that extra $400...? Eh...

Pretty powerful argument for DIY, though. Crap, that's a lot of money.

 

I checked mine at 22K. All the exhausts were below spec, all the intakes were technically in spec but at the low end. I ended up changing all 12 shims so that they ended up at the top of the spec or within .02mm.

[draco_1967]

I moved all mine as close to the high end of spec as I could, based on the shims I could order. Rockymountain ATV/MC sells individual shims in .025 increments, which is nicer than ordering a giant set of shims with a bunch of sizes I'd probably never use. Plus I needed 4 in one size, and all the sets I saw had 3 of each size. The cost was $30 shipped to my door. DIYing stuff is fun for me, and I always learn new things. Plus, I am less likely (or at least just as likely) to screw something up as the dealer "techs." I've not had good experiences with dealer service techs...

[bwringer]

I started with a complete shim kit (three shims in each size), then stocked up in the size ranges I'm most likely to need using "refill kits" from sellers on fleaBay and Amazon. Refill kits have five shims each in a limited size range.

After doing the first check, I knew with more certainty what would be needed next, then ordered a few more packages of individual sizes to plug any potential holes in my collection.

I work on a lot of different motorcycles, and these shims are used on many different makes and models. For me, it's worth having them on hand vs. potentially tying up my lift for days waiting on shims.

Also, several of the OEM shims on my FJ-09 were "in-between" sizes, like 1.91 or 1.88; with some planning, I was able to re-use most of these in other valves to set the maximum clearances more accurately.

[RaYzerman]

FYI, you can get in-between "half sizes".... ProX shims from RockyMountainATV.

[skipperT]

Wow, @nhchris shocker. A rare bit of info for sure. Out of curiousity, stock or flashed? Any other mods (pipe, air etc)?

11 hours ago, texscottyd said:

The exception that proves the rule...  you just never know.  

The nature of an internet forum is that you tend to hear more about problems and anomalies.   Maybe there are more that are 'in spec' than we tend to believe,  but we just don't hear about them?   Regardless, enjoy your good luck and your $400! 

agree with this comment so much, TexScott. You rarely hear about the good stuff!

-skip

[Instinct28]

On 2/2/2023 at 9:08 PM, nhchris said:

Now here's something you don't often hear on this site....

At my first valve inspection at 21k miles ALL my valves were within spec on my 2016 FJ09.

The inspection was done by a Yami dealer.  I stressed to him I was happy to pay for the re-shiming and wanted it done if needed.

I picked up the bike today and was told no valves were out of spec and no adjustment was required.  Here are the numbers the tech noted:

RANGE        .260mm - .300mm                  110mm - .200mm  

CYL 1.  EX - .279mm  .270mm          INT -- .152mm.    .178mm

CYL  2  EX - .279mm.  .279mm         INT --  .152mm     .127mm

CYL 3  EX -  .30mm     .279mm.        INT --   .152mm.  .152mm

Needless to say, I was shocked.  99% of what is reported here about valves indicates exhaust valves will be really tight at the first inspection.  I don't doubt your findings, but I guess I'm a one per-center!

For those that think the dealer might have been lazy and just made up the numbers, I wondered about that also. Then I realized he lost $400 in pure labor by not re-shimming.  (Estimate was $850 and bill ended up being $450. )

The old air filter was filthy and should have been changed 10k mikes ago.  The old plugs were well worn and probably the originals.  Should have been replaced at 15k.

On one hour ride home the bike ran very strong thanks to new plugs and TB sync.  Life is strange!

In December I had an independent mechanic check my valves on my 2015 FJ09 at 23,000 and same as you, mine were all in tolerance.

I purchased the bike June 2021 with 16,600 miles on it so it may have already had an adjustment done.

I had him clean and sync TB's and install some laser Iridium Plugs and Andreani cartridges that I got last year, it cost me $500 witch I think is a pretty good deal.

At least she's ready for riding season. I love my bike except for the wobble past 100, maybe the cartridges fixed that.

This December I want to do slipper clutch and 2019 swingarm. 

[Ride365]

All valves being in spec for practically any motorcycle engine on the first interval, is rare as hens teeth. If you or someone are already in there, makes no sense to not adjust them perfectly within specs. My 2 cents.....

Edited February 4, 2023 by Ride365

[nhchris]

13 hours ago, skipperT said:

Wow, @nhchris shocker. A rare bit of info for sure. Out of curiousity, stock or flashed? Any other mods (pipe, air etc)?

agree with this comment so much, TexScott. You rarely hear about the good stuff!

-skip

Yep, completely stock.  I will also add that I do not abuse the motor.  While I ride fast I never get into the rev limiter and I have a 17 tooth sprocket to drop the highway revs at touring speeds.

I also believe in systems engineering and think the factory-designed engine is really an ecosystem of intake, combustion and exhaust.  Make changes to one and it will affect the other two, and not always predictable ways, especially over the long term.  

Removing the CAT, cutting up intake parts, blocking off stuff and even ECU reprogramming falls into that category for me.  (No flames please:!)

here’s my latest question:  does extending the TB sync points with capped off hoses disrupt the fluid flow dynamics of the intake system?  You create a plenum in each capped hose, right? Plenums are used car air intake system to shape air flow dynamics.

As a previous poster said, many of us love to wrench and tinker.  More power to you folks who pull the cams so you can shim an in spec valve to the widest end of its range.
 

As Bob Dillon sang so long ago:   “It ain’t me babe.”

[Ride365]

Local motorcycle mechanic who was a Kawasaki team racer for years, says that most motorcycle engines he checks need their valves adjusted. Matter of fact he won't leave any valve alone unless is middle spec.......or it gets adjusted.