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Lube my chain!


priboy

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It really couldn't change the viscosity - that's a manufactured in property of a liquid. Here is their justification:
 
The PRO-OILER is the first and only system to give you continuous electronically metered and pumped lubrication - based on how far you have traveled.
 
"Think about it:
 
The only thing that matters to your chain is the distance it's covered.
 
More distance = more oil... simple!
 
The PRO-OILER works like this:
 
· The microprocessor registers the actual speed and after a certain distance it sends a signal to the pump.
 
· The precision electromagnetic pump then delivers a dose of oil to the chain - always exactly the same amount per pump stroke, regardless of temperature or oil viscosity.
 
· You, the rider, can select the distance at which the pump fires. Your controller is mounted up front, and you see your settings and other info on the LED display.
 
· When it rains, or in dirty conditions, you simply adjust the oil delivery as you wish with the + and - buttons... all while on the move of course!"

 
So, despite the sophisticated electronics, it still relies on the rider to check the chain and make manual adjustments on the controller for ambient temperature, weather and terrain.
 
I consider the same variables and twiddle the knob on the side of my Tutoro accordingly. The Tutoro is a lot cheaper and much simpler to fit.
 
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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Actually the Pro-Oiler provides many more mounting options than the Tutoro. I considered the Tutoro but was put off by the restrictions on mounting(the need to keep the reservoir upright and my use of the FJR bags limited choices for me.) I can feed from a rigid container, a bag, etc. Anything I can get the feed and vent tubes into. And size actually does matter for those of us on this side of the pond. I am taking a couple of cross country trips that will include 1,000 to 1,500 mile days (that's 1,600 to 2,400kms.) With this system I plan on filling once a day based on the container size I am using in my system. I have enough things to keep track of on days like that, the oiling system is one I can ignore and the system will warn me if something is amiss. As far as "fiddling", once its set its good to go. If you do get caught in a rain storm or feel the need to go off-roading, a simple push on the controller with your index finger makes the adjustment. And you have reminder in front of you as to your oiling rate change. Just as easy to adjust back to your normal setting when the situation abates.
 
I understand that both systems have their advantages and disadvantages. The Tutoro is the modern interpretation of this...
$_35.JPG
These have been in use for over a hundred years. Simple and based on the number of those old motors still running, it was effective. It is half the price but is still a manual system that requires more maintenance. The Pro-Oiler that removes much of the "fiddling" but is a more expensive option. It oils by distance travelled, provides the owner with an almost infinite number of installation options and is adjustable on the fly with my right index finger. That said, if my bike were to be limited to commuting and short trips I probably would have went the chain wax or chain lube route.
Despite all that I had one other overriding input as to my decisions. I bought a thoroughly modern motorcycle and have since installed a host of thoroughly modern amenities. I could have gone with a map, a mechanical throttle lock, carburetors and the oiler above...but since it is 2016 I chose GPS, fuel injection, fly by wire cruise control and satellite controlled lubrication.  ;):D (rofl)
 
 
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  • 4 weeks later...
I bought the Scottoiler, electronic version, and so far so good.  The chain is really staying clean.  Great customer service.  At first there was a light leak and when I reported it, the company sent a replacement check valve-problem solved.
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  • 3 weeks later...
I use Bel-Ray Blue-Tac chain lube every 1000 miles and Honda Chain Cleaner whenever I notice excessive grunge building up on the chain . I have almost 6000 miles on my FJ and havnt needed to adjust chain slack since the 600 mile service was completed . I have used this same process on my FZ1 and easily get 40,000 miles out of a set of chain and sprockets .
I have been cleaning and lubricating the chain every 500 miles (I ride in all weather conditions except snow/ice and 500 miles is easier for me to remember than 600). I have been happy with Motorex Chain Cleaner and Bel Ray Blue-Tac. This was my first time using the Grunge Brush; I can not yet speak to its durability but thought it was easier to use than a toothbrush.
 
I have considered a pro-oiler (I'm a sucker for technology... a GPS linked chain oiler!) but the center stand makes chain maintenence so easy I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I might file that one away under needless complication (for me). I'm not sure I'll be able to live without a center stand again.
 
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  • 5 months later...
My favorite combo now is Tirox Chain Clean 360, (Amazon) that comes with a neat 360 degree brush that is O ring friendly along with an aerosol can of chain cleaner. After the chain is cleaned up and wiped off, I use a Grease Ninja and the "old" formula Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant. I ride mostly paved roads and have not taken the bike out in the rain yet, so, my "every 1000 miles whether it needs it or not schedule applies. I have a Tuturo Chain oiler (thanks Richland Rich and Wessie) waiting in the wings when my supply of Dupont runs out. That won't be for a while though, because I stocked up before they discontinued the old formula.
Read the review on wBW and the author commented on it being discontinued but now Tirox has a similar formula.  Just visited Amazon and wondering is the new/relabeled Chain Saver not as good in some way? 
 
 
 
SoCal
2015 FJ-09 Red of course :)
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My favorite combo now is Tirox Chain Clean 360, (Amazon) that comes with a neat 360 degree brush that is O ring friendly along with an aerosol can of chain cleaner. After the chain is cleaned up and wiped off, I use a Grease Ninja and the "old" formula Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant. I ride mostly paved roads and have not taken the bike out in the rain yet, so, my "every 1000 miles whether it needs it or not schedule applies. I have a Tuturo Chain oiler (thanks Richland Rich and Wessie) waiting in the wings when my supply of Dupont runs out. That won't be for a while though, because I stocked up before they discontinued the old formula.
Read the review on wBW and the author commented on it being discontinued but now Tirox has a similar formula.  Just visited Amazon and wondering is the new/relabeled Chain Saver not as good in some way? 
 
 

Yes, that's my understanding from other riders. As stated, I still have a good supply left of the old formula, so won't be trying anything else any time soon. And then, I still have the Tutoro Chain Oiler in reserve.  
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  • 4 months later...
Resurrecting an old thread here about chain oiling.  Quite a while ago both @wessie and @johan were touting the Tutoro unit.  I liked how it didn't have to connect to the bike for vacuum or electric, so bought it.  One of these guys indicated that they had the metering valve open 1-1/2 turns for the right amount of lube.  I installed mine last season and kept opening the valve more and more with little result.  Hardly any oil gets used at the 3-1/2 turns that I'm at now.  Any comments on this?  I'm using the oil that came with the unit, which is pretty thick stuff.
 
I may try a synthetic motor oil next to see if that gives more flow.  Suggestions appreciated, as the season is going to start here in New England pretty soon.
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Resurrecting an old thread here about chain oiling.  Quite a while ago both @wessie and @johan were touting the Tutoro unit.  I liked how it didn't have to connect to the bike for vacuum or electric, so bought it.  One of these guys indicated that they had the metering valve open 1-1/2 turns for the right amount of lube.  I installed mine last season and kept opening the valve more and more with little result.  Hardly any oil gets used at the 3-1/2 turns that I'm at now.  Any comments on this?  I'm using the oil that came with the unit, which is pretty thick stuff. 
I may try a synthetic motor oil next to see if that gives more flow.  Suggestions appreciated, as the season is going to start here in New England pretty soon.
If you lift the weight (use a cable tie hooked under the weight to gently lift it), does the oil flow freely from the delivery pipe? If not, you have a restriction in the pipe somewhere. Check any bends and any mounting points for pinching. Check the nozzle is clear.  
Does the weight move up easily and then drop back into position? 
 
My unit has done 16600 miles in 2 years without a problem. Just need to open the valve to two turns if it gets below 5C, 1 turn at 10C and half a turn if over 20C. I clean the chain with paraffin about twice a year, just brush on and rinse off with a hose. 
 
If I rode often in temperatures below 5C then I might look into a lighter oil but I don't, so I have not. During a prolonged cold spell with loads of salt on the road I did feel sorry for the chain and give it a good coat of whatever oil is in the garage squirty can - one of those old thumb pumper things which was last refilled in about 2001 when I was putting Castrol GTX in both car & R1150GS. 
 
 
 
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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Thanks for the reply Wessie.  When I installed the system I used the magnet to lift the weight for priming the system.  It seemed to work just fine.  In a week or two it will warm up enough that I can spend time in the garage.  Then I'll try the priming again to be sure the oil flows properly.  I kind of wonder if smooth roads don't provide enough giggle to  open up the weight to allow oil flow.  Also wondering if there might be an obstruction in the meter in valve area from the factory.  So these are the things I need to check out.
 
Will post up again when I've done my homework.
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  • 3 weeks later...
We finally have some spring weather here in New England this weekend.  So Friday I prepped the bike for riding.
 
1 - Bled the back brake . . . a lot.  It still doesn't do much.  So next step is to change pads and do a buff down of the disc.  I'll try either Gafler or EBC.
 
2 - The Tutoro oiler.  It was about 40°F at the time I put the bleed magnet over the top of the reservoir.  After a couple of minutes the thing started to apply drops out of one of the twin oil spouts.  I  removed the metering valve and it had no effect one way or the other.  But the valve appears clean.  The oil in there is the original stuff that came with the unit.  It was **very** thick and stringy.  So I'm thinking that the oil is just too viscous for the tube routing I did.  I think I'll change out the oil to something a bit lighter and see if that works better.  The chain doesn't look dry really.  But there is no wetness at all to indicate that it has been lubed.
 
3 - The only other thing I want to do is rework the windscreen adjusting bolts.  The left one keeps wanting to vibrate loose.  Will put a locking nut on the bolt to stop this.
 
So yesterday I went out to the store plus gas up and Techron injector cleaner.  The bike started instantly, like it always has.  Such a great motor.
 
Next up is a May trip to Barber Motorsports museum in Alabama.  Blue Ridge, Seneca Rocks, and a lot of two lane.  Will be fun.  Will be staying in this cabin for a couple of nights:
 
(OK first try at putting an image directly rather than linking :-))
 
 
Cheaha_Bluff_Side_Cabin.jpg
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  • 3 weeks later...
Update on the Tutoro oiler.  I drained out the supplied oil and put in Mobil 1 synthetic 85 weight gear oil.  This is still pretty heavy stuff, but after a couple hundred miles I can now see a bit of oil on the chain rollers.  Nothing getting out to the side plates, but I guess that's ok.  Adjuster is set at 4 turns out now.
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Update on the Tutoro oiler.  I drained out the supplied oil and put in Mobil 1 synthetic 85 weight gear oil.  This is still pretty heavy stuff, but after a couple hundred miles I can now see a bit of oil on the chain rollers.  Nothing getting out to the side plates, but I guess that's ok.  Adjuster is set at 4 turns out now.
YMMV, but I've used two-stroke oil and cheap 10w30 (even left over, used oil) with good results. I tried gear oil for a while, and it worked ok in the summer, but it stunk... sitting at a red light on hot asphalt the stench of hot gear oil was annoying.
 
Keep experimenting and find something that works for you. I love my Tutoro!
 
trey
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