Newbie Questions...

[zachd]

Another question; What did you guys get in your tool kit? I have one open end wrench, one shock adjuster spanner wrench, one extender bar for spanner wrench, one helmet holder cable, and one rubber hold down for tool roll. Now, I didn't look at the stock seat that's temporally in the hard bags (I got a replacement Corbin seat installed) maybe there are some more tools attached under the stock seat? Anyway, the tool kit seems pretty lacking?

Under the passenger seat will be an allen key (4mm IIRC), screwdriver handle, and a phillips/flathead combination bit.

[martyl]

I thought so. Thanks. Cycle gear is running a special on tool kits for $40.00. I'll put it in one of the hard side cases. I'd feel more comfortable with more tools than supplied.

[jimf]

I thought so. Thanks. Cycle gear is running a special on tool kits for $40.00. I'll put it in one of the hard side cases. I'd feel more comfortable with more tools than supplied.

Any tools are better than no tools but building your own tool roll will give you better tools and you can put in the tools you want. 
I got a tool roll here:
 
http://roadgear.com/
 
and filled it with a variety of useful tools.  It was definitely more expensive than the Cycle Gear tool kit, but the tools are more carefully selected and higher quality.  I think the only tool I don't have in the kit that I really should is the 28mm socket for adjusting the chain because its size and torque spec are a bit large.

[Trambo]

I also carry my own toolkit as others have mentioned, all quality stuff and hand-selected for need, usefulness and quality. I packed all of into a small nylon kit bag that I keep in my left side case. Tire repair kit, CO2 inflator & cartridges, various sockets, wrenches, pliers, Allen keys, duct tape & baling wire(don't laugh) and other goodies I've assembled over the decades that I find indispensable in various breakdown situations. And it doesn't take much room in the case. For longer trips I may add a few items to the case. It never hurts to be prepared for a breakdown. You never know where or when it will happen, we don't get to choose this; typically the worst place, at the worst time, in the worst conditions. Having the right tools makes it a lot less stressful IMO.

[estell]

 

Isn't the rear-axle nut a 27mm? I was about to order this wrench for its compact size: http://www.revzilla.com/product/msr-rider-wrenches 

[redfjniner]

root said "With that apology being said, I'm not sure how you can "avoid excessive load" and still "rap the throttle to full throttle"."
 
That is your opinion root.  I have a great deal of faith in Yamaha engineering.  If "rap the trottle to full trottle" causes an excessive load, they would have said so.  How you break-in your engine is your decission, and I am fine with that, what ever you want to do, it's your bike.  I am just trying to be clear about what the manual says.  

[root]

root said "With that apology being said, I'm not sure how you can "avoid excessive load" and still "rap the throttle to full throttle". "
 
 
That is your opinion root.  I have a great deal of faith in Yamaha engineering.  If "rap the trottle to full trottle" causes an excessive load, they would have said so.  How you break-in your engine is your decission, and I am fine with that, what ever you want to do, it's your bike.  I am just trying to be clear about what the manual says.  

We're all good.  Same goal here, different interpretation, different opinion.  Both of our interpretations are out now so I'm moving on.  I agree with you that it's up to each person to decide how to break in an engine and decide what the admittedly ambiguous manual is trying to say, or even consciously ignore what the manual says if they choose.  I'm not trying to imply you are ignoring the manual by any means.  No hard feelings here and I hope there are none for you as well.

[jimf]

root said "With that apology being said, I'm not sure how you can "avoid excessive load" and still "rap the throttle to full throttle". "
 
 
That is your opinion root.  I have a great deal of faith in Yamaha engineering.  If "rap the trottle to full trottle" causes an excessive load, they would have said so.  How you break-in your engine is your decission, and I am fine with that, what ever you want to do, it's your bike.  I am just trying to be clear about what the manual says.  

Rapid opening is a high torque demand, sort of by definition. 
I read it like you in that the RPM limits aren't hard limits, but consider what's happening in the engine.  Early in the engine's life all those moving metal bits are bedding in like new brake pads to rotors, shaving each other down in places where imperfections are too tight due to variances in manufacturing.  You'd like to bed them in gradually, which means gradually stepping up the heat and stress, and ideally varying the heat levels up and down within a particular step level.
 
Running the thing wide open is an invitation for fast heat expansion, and any imperfections will grind away rather than polish.  Again comparing to bedding in brake pads, if you try too hard too fast you can glaze the pads because there will be hot spots.
 
Having said that, modern manufacturing is hell and gone better than it was even a couple of decades ago -- the manufacturing tolerances are a whole lot tighter -- so it's surely not as important now as it used to be.  I know some engineers who think the whole idea of break-in is largely outmoded.
 
I prefer to go slow just in case I have a motor manufactured at the end of the tooling life, where tolerances are the worst.  It seems like cheap insurance.  I know some racers who think that running it in hard is a good idea because it will tend to break in loose, and looser engines are faster engines.
 
You roll the dice and you take your chances.
 
 

[Guest bruinfj09guy]

Martyl, if you haven't done your 600 mi service yet (or even if you have), be careful of the oil plug torque spec. Without a new crush washer (and maybe with) tightening to spec can mean needing to re-thread your pan.  Some of us have learned the hard way.
 
 
 

[skipperT]

Martyl, if you haven't done your 600 mi service yet (or even if you have), be careful of the oil plug torque spec. Without a new crush washer (and maybe with) tightening to spec can mean needing to re-thread your pan.  Some of us have learned the hard way. 
 

 
 
Sorry you learned the hard way - but the drain plug with a new washer torques to 31 ft lbs.
 
There are NO worries with that. Or maybe it's because I have a Snap-on digital torque wrench? 8-)
 
-Skip

[martyl]

How many out there go by the 4000 mile intervals as per the manual? Sooner? Also, the manual calls for oil filter change every 8000 miles. Anybody change filter with every oil change? As far as tightening, hand tight good enough? Good n snug? How many out there going with spec of 31 lbs. . On drain plug?

[redfjniner]

How many out there go by the 4000 mile intervals as per the manual? Sooner? Also, the manual calls for oil filter change every 8000 miles. Anybody change filter with every oil change? As far as tightening, hand tight good enough? Good n snug? How many out there going with spec of 31 lbs. . On drain plug?

1.  Change oil every 4K first year, 5K there after.  Use a blend. 2.  Change oil filter every oil change.  If I don't have a filter and can't get one and want to leave for a 4K ride, I will just change the oil.
3.  17 ft. lbs.  why not?  have never had any problem removing, but then again I change the oil 5+ times a year.
4.  31 ft. lbs is normal for dry threads as in new.  Since when did you have dry theads?  Cut the torque as appropriate.  I use 27-28 lbs ft.  (same on the FJR, no problem in 230K, of course I didn't do all the oil changes either).
 
 

[Guest bruinfj09guy]

I do what has become the conventional wisdom for many Yamaha owners and use Rotella oil and Purolator filters. Purolator 14610 and 14612 both fit the threads. The 14610 is 3/4" or so longer and barely fits past the rad hose. The 12 is shorter and about the size of the stock filter ( I don't remember what kind it was), a motorcycle fram filter, or the spec K&N with the nut. Many Fz1 riders have been using this configuration for years.
 
I used Rotella T3 15w40 conventional at the first two oil changes and switched to T6 5w40 afterwards. The oil and filters are both very affordable and every bit as good as anything else you will put in it (I believe, and many thousands of miles on mine and others' Fz1s confirm, along with cited testing on websites that can be easily found by google).
 
Some (see above a couple posts) will admonish that 31' lbs is just fine with a new crush washer. Perhaps, but a scan through this forum (and the FJR forums, apparently) will confirm that many riders have also stripped threads. I use a copper washer, and if it is in good shape I reuse it; I'm still on my first copper washer after 3 oil changes. I hand tighten the plug and filter to the extent that I am comfortable it is tight but not so much that I feel like it is on the brink of stripping. Also, due to the aforementioned stripping, I now have steel Time-sert threads in my pan, which I wasn't too happy about at the time but feel pretty good about since.
 
 
I hope that helps! 
 
Edit: My changes so far have fallen between 3 and 4k. They usually fell between 3 and 5k on the Fz. I tend to throttle kind of hard, though, so I figure I might shear kind of quickly. Who knows?

[wessie]

How many out there go by the 4000 mile intervals as per the manual? Sooner? Also, the manual calls for oil filter change every 8000 miles. Anybody change filter with every oil change? As far as tightening, hand tight good enough? Good n snug? How many out there going with spec of 31 lbs. . On drain plug?

Even Yamaha can't agree on the frequency.
 
In Europe, oil change intervals are 6000 miles (10,000km) with a filter change at each oil change. This seems good enough for Yamaha to give a 2 year, unlimited mileage warranty. 

[martyl]

Thanks for the replies. IMHO, just the fact that old oil will still be in the used filter , my plan is to change the filter with every oil change. As far as torque, I think I'll go with about 25lbs. On bikes for stuff like this I've always gone with, " good n snug". Never like the mighty Hercules...