mangosmoothie Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Hi all, I've now adjusted my chain for the 3rd time and noticed the axle is digging into the aluminum "chain pusher" (I call it an axle block). The problem appears to be the flat side of the axle does not sit flush against the lip on the pusher. This allows the axle to rotate when torquing (or removing the axle nut from the opposite side) so the axle starts to dig in. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong, or this is just what happens to our bikes. Axle nut was torqued to 108 ft lbs per the manual. The wheel was 100% in alignment on the last adjustment. Verified using one of these measuring tools (not my bike) I've looked on FZ09 forums and found a few threads about this in 2014. A couple say user error, a couple say it's just too soft of a material, etc. Image of issue on my bike Does anyone else have this issue? No other bike I've seen allows the axle to rotate at all before contacting the little ledge/stopper thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted July 12, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted July 12, 2017 You need These. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Ive got 45K and mine is much worse than yours. I will change adjuster at 50K. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fddriver2 Posted July 12, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted July 12, 2017 You need These. Or these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-CHAIN-ADJUSTERS-BY-GILLES-TOOLING-FZ-09-14-16-FJ-09-15-17-1RC-F21D0-V0-00-/271406418584 "It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same" Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mangosmoothie Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Apologies for not searching fellas. My axle was fully seated each time. I guess it's just too soft a material. Sad we have to resort to the aftermarket. Regardless, I'm going to show up at a Yamaha dealer and tell them "I don't feel safe riding my Yamaha motorcycle." Maybe if enough people bitch we'll get another recall. I like the Gilles, and the aftermarket rally sport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Yea, Aluminum axle block vs steel axle. '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suncoaster Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 The Gilles chain adjuster were an optional extra from Yamaha when I bought my bike. Incidentally, I notice that the Australian Gilles importer have stopped distributing the brand, and are selling their stock at a 30-60% discount. They have parts for many bikes, but no chain adjusters left for the Tracer. http://www.gillestooling.com.au/ Example - levers, were $146 each, now $95 : http://www.ims-racing.com.au/Gilles-Tooling-Levers.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mangosmoothie Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Ordered the Gilles through my local dealer. I'm leaving for a trip next week and can't wait for the other ones and being a GYTR part, I figure there's no way in hell Yamaha can void a warranty for anything related to the chain adjuster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeg Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 108 ft lbs is a ridiculous amount of torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mangosmoothie Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 I agree. But that's what the manual says Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeg Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 The manual also says the chain slack should be 5.0 - 15.0 mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I always bring this issue of torquing after the nut and bolt have some oil or grease on them. You need to reduce the torque FT. LBS. unless you clean the threads with a solvent to make them "dry", as in the case of brand new and numbers used in the repair manuals. If you don't do the cleaning, reduce the torque value by 10-15% min. in this Cycle World article 20-25%. As in the case of the oil drain bolt: very hard to clean because the oil is dripping out, you would reduce the 31 ft. lbs to 25-27 ft. lbs. Rear axle 108 ft. lbs to 85-90 ft. lbs. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member joeszup Posted July 14, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted July 14, 2017 You need These. Yup, I have those too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted July 19, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted July 19, 2017 I got these and like them a lot. When I adjust the chain, before I tighten the axle nut, I slip an piece of stainless steel shim stock bent into a U around the head of the axle to preclude rotation of the axle head and prevent it from digging into the aluminum adjuster block. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Chain-Adjusters-Tensioners-For-2013-2016-YAMAHA-FZ-09-MT-09-Tracer-FJ09-RN29-/391500754244?var=&hash=item5b27436d44:m:mYLzQb4DwAao6SEImc-I1HQ&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlxr Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/1rc-25389-00-00/puller-chain-2 There is a new part number for the left side adjuster block, maybe it has been upgraded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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