Off-Season Projects - Winter 2017/18

[piotrek]

In the parts where old man winter comes by each year to remind us who's boss... do you have any projects or fixes planned in the off-season?
 
 
 
I was preoccupied sorting out my suspension and ECU last winter (exciting times), so this year my to-do involves much less mystery... and more fun:
 

• Replace front tire with Dunlop RS3 (cupping got bad) - done
• Wheel decals (thanks @wordsmith ) - done
• Install cruise control (super excited about MCCruise) - done
• Re-torque steering head bearing (just because... bought the socket from UK) - done
• Replace clutch cable back to stock rev.2 - done
• Install new horn (it snapped off the mounts two weeks ago) - done
• Replace air filter (it's time) - done
• Replace spark plugs (while I'm in there) - done
• Install speed bleeders (thanks @clint and @desertfjr ) - deferred to winter 2018/19
• Install a fuse block (Metri-Pack 280 3-fuse block) - done
• Replace GPS PSU (never worked properly... gotta fix that) - done
• Install Powerlet outlets (thanks @3banger ) - done
• Configure OE heated grip controls to work with heated jacket (thanks @popawilly ) - does not work
• Cleanup accessory wiring (looks like shet... shame on me) - done
• Permanently affixed tool box somewhere in the tail - done
• Modify (shorten/stiffen) Cosmo GPS mount - cancelled... works well
• Get Shad SH23 cases (thanks @ray88 and @bbb ) - done[*]Plan trips!!! (when it's just too cold to be in the garage)
• Seat... maybe. - done

This could be overly ambitious, depending on temperatures (garage only has a small space heater)... but without a plan, nothing's getting done.
 

[wordsmith]

Thanks for the nod, piotr.   I have to say, and not for the first time, that when I see a motorcycle - any motorcycle - disembowelled like in the pic here it makes me silently applaud those who have designed and made and assembled such a complex thing.

[2and3cylinders]

2017-2018 Winter FJ-09 TBC List
 
Braided SS Brake lines & possibly 320 mm rotors
R6/R1 Front Brake master cylinder
Matt’s fork damper rods & caps + .90 straight rate springs
2006 Kawasaki ZX636RR shock with heavier spring or ?
Have Dave at Vcyclenut flash ECU again with quicker Standard & A mode
Check / Adjust valves
Check / Sync TB (again)
Check / adjust API
Check / replace spark plugs (again)
Change, flush & vacuum bleed coolant (Pentosin Pentofrost A3 Phosphated AOT utilizing uView Airlift 550000)
Replace air filter
Lube & adjust steering head bearings
Have ECU flashed a bit quicker in Std & A again Dave a Vcyclenut
Hyper-Lites on License Plate (in addition to the Nightrider lights on the top case rack)
Scott, Tutoro or other automatic chain oiler
Replace Dunlop RS3 front tire (replacement provided by Dunlop under warranty)
Install Excel Throttle Control (or pull trigger on McCuise!)
Yamaha OEM slipper clutch assembly??!!
 
Note:  Below modifications list omitted installation of Yamaha OEM heated grips & -02 clutch cable

 

 

[betoney]

-I just got the parts delivered tonight for the assist/slipper clutch.
-Oil and filter change.
-Coolant flush
-upgrade to R1 320mm brake rotors to match the R1 master cylinder.
-Have ECU re-flashed to come on in A mode.
 
She just got a new clutch cable and a fresh set of Bridgestone Battlax S21 tires. The air filter was cleaned while I was under the hood adjusting the APS.

[norcal616]

For the FJ-09 @7k miles
- oil change very very soon
- route backup clutch cable- still on V1 cable ? even tho I got a QuickShifter
- suspension- currently debating ideas-
:Norwest built shock##need to inquire
:Norwest DDC fork kit-##send forks out
: need to have rear shock built to
control LaunchControl
: loving the included thrust needle bearing between the adjusting spinners for preload and the shaft will get surface treatment option done on rear shock
- replace OEM airfilter with GYTR filter.
bought from forum member
- reposition handlebars since recall was.
done a few weeks ago
 
For the FZ-07 @16k miles- not important as its the "Backup" bike
- order new handlebar risers
- make up my mind on color choice for plastic bodywork
- double check front suspension/tire for any binding
- install flush mount front turn signals
- find a airfilter "skirt" for the Hordpower Airbox airfilter
- order new QuickShifter for the PCV
×××××××××××××××××××××××××××××××××××××××××
 
Twin Turbo S10 w/408 small block powered by 2-76mm turbos on E85 ?
- yes its my main winter project
 
and any various drag cars that wander into the mad lab called the " Garage " for roll cage work, installing NOS systems, engine swaps and rear end pulls...

[texscottyd]

For the FJ-09 << list of innocuous stuff >>
 
Twin Turbo S10 w/408 small block powered by 2-76mm turbos on E85 ?
 

Whoa...  that's serious.  If I could fire up the Way-Back Machine, I'd share with you the 454 Chevy LUV I built in high school.   After several successful V8 Vega projects, it seemed like the next logical step.  It had the potential of being wickedly fast, but instead just ended up being wickedly dangerous.  Genuinely surprised that 17 year old me survived that era... 
Good luck & happy building!   My Raptor/Interceptor build is going to keep me occupied for the next few months.
 

[norcal616]

For the FJ-09 << list of innocuous stuff >>
 
Twin Turbo S10 w/408 small block powered by 2-76mm turbos on E85 ?
 

Whoa...  that's serious.  If I could fire up the Way-Back Machine, I'd share with you the 454 Chevy LUV I built in high school.   After several successful V8 Vega projects, it seemed like the next logical step.  It had the potential of being wickedly fast, but instead just ended up being wickedly dangerous.  Genuinely surprised that 17 year old me survived that era... 
Good luck & happy building!   My CHEVY POWERED Raptor/Interceptor build is going to keep me occupied for the next few months.

 
 
 

 
Just a little sum sumthing...1000hp stuffed into the stock body ?...old setup was a 408sbc 700hp nitrous motor with almost .690 lift till number 7 piston start ticking ?....

[betoney]

-I just got the parts delivered tonight for the assist/slipper clutch.

Looking forward to hearing how that goes for you. When time comes for a new clutch for me... this will be it.

I installed the assist/slipper clutch this morning and for the most part, everything went very smooth.  Prior to attempting this, in addition to basic sockets you WILL need the following: 
-XSR900 service manual (chapter 5)
-Clutch holding tool
-30mm socket
-Torque wrench
-Thread locker
 
When you get the parts, familiarize yourself with each part and read through the service manual to become comfortable with each step and which plates get replaced.
 
Some very specific steps that you will want to pay attention to -
-The judder spring (clutch damper spring) goes in facing out.
-The (first) inner friction plate and the (last) outer 3 plates (2x friction, 1x steel drive) get replaced.
-The last friction plate is offset by 1 tooth from the rest of the clutch pack.
-The pull rod gets installed with the teeth facing 4 o'clock. 
-The push lever assembly (where the clutch cable connects to) gets aligned triangle to dot when there is tension on the arm, if you align the two marks when there is free play, you will adjust your lever all the way out and will have zero clutch cable pull.
 
Most of this will all make sense when you get in there and have "hands-on" interaction.
 
The 6 post clutch boss and pressure plate gets replaced with a 3 post model, in place of the 2nd, 4th and 6th spring are rubber dampers, very similar to the rubber dampers in a cush drive on your sprocket carrier. 
 
Stock FJ pressure plate
 

 
 
XSR pressure plate, notice the 3 rubber dampers
 

 
 
Since it was raining, I only took a brief shake-down ride to make sure everything worked and I didn't mess anything up too badly.  Immediately noticeable is the very light lever pull, it is significantly lighter.  The next thing you notice is the smoother shifting, the gearbox is butter smooth while shifting.  And lastly, deceleration has much less of a jolt when you drop a gear.  While riding at slow speed, I didn't use any brakes, I just down shifted and let out the clutch and surprisingly, the rubber dampers absorbed the energy which resulted in a very nice, smooth transition to the lower gear.
The real test will be some energetic twisties where I can give the clutch and gearbox a workout.
 

[betoney]

Plugs looked good (25K kms), but replaced them with NGK CR9EIA-9 #6289 Iridium. Coils were on VERY firm, and went back on equally VERY firm... really had to press hard to seat them in fully. 

Your plugs still look great and your mileage is about the same as what I put on my bike this year.  If I had followed the manual I would have inspected them 4x and replaced them 2x already this year.  I think I will give them another 10k miles before messing with them.   

[BBB]

As I’m being extremely lazy and it’s cold outside and I want to do something vaguely useful, I thought I’d assemble a tool roll to carry in a pannier. I already have a Kriega tool roll, so would any kind souls like to advise on appropriate socket/wrench and allen/hex key sizes it would be useful to have in the roll? Plus any other useful things to carry in case of a realistically possible roadside repair?

[betoney]

I already have a Kriega tool roll, so would any kind souls like to advise on appropriate socket/wrench and allen/hex key sizes it would be useful to have in the roll? Plus any other useful things to carry in case of a realistically possible roadside repair?

I always carry a tool roll or pouch with standard tools.  How I have always determined what I might need is by doing general maintenance on the bike and carrying those tools with me. 
-6 in 1 screwdriver
-Metric folding hex key set
-Ratchet with 4" extension
-basic metric socket set 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
-Needle nose pliers
-Dynaplug tire repair kit
-Mini tire inflator
 

[BBB]

How I have always determined what I might need is by doing general maintenance on the bike and carrying those tools with me.

Thanks for the list @betoney. I was planning to work around the bike and note the sizes of each fastener etc, but the bike lives outside and it’s too cold today, hence the lazy path of asking others. 

[BBB]

Sounds like an interesting tool box plan @piotrek. Looking forward to seeing what you end up doing as it’s going to get dirty and wet under the tail.

[enx]

Only 'project' on my Tracer this winter will be, to buy and instal OEM engine protectors.

[wordsmith]

I always carry a tool roll or pouch with standard tools.  How I have always determined what I might need is by doing general maintenance on the bike and carrying those tools with me...

Having some tools and the inflator + plug kit is a good idea. I am now looking at options to affix a small plastic tool box to the underside of the top case plate or underside of the tail somehow. Between the MCCruise controller and the fuze block, I am running out of options under the seat. I had my inflator (stop & go), plugs and some basic other things in there... and they're getting displaced. I need a permanently affixed solution so that I never have to remember to bring the kit with me. I am thinking a simple low profile plastic box with a lockable, latching top... the top being fixed to the underside of the tail/case plate. Looks like another project.
If you never, ever carry a pillion, you could utilise the pillion seat, suitably disembowelled (i.e. remove the foam entirely, or cut a section out of it then replace the top cover) and utilise that space, which although admittedly small maybe sufficient.   If this sounds like too much lateral thinking, I did this on my wife's BMW F650 GS, as in those far-off days we carried 27MHz CB radios for bike-to-bike communication (nobody under the age of about 50 will know CB radio).   From dimly-recalled memory the major unit for this was about 8" x 8" x maybe 1.5" to 2" deep, and fitted nicely into a cut-out in the foam of the pillion seat, which also gave it a bit of anti-vibration protection.   Quickly and easily restored and invisible when time came to sell the bike.   FWIW... 
Alternatively - and this may be a better idea, and is certainly easier - some form of handlebar-mounted small bag would probably suffice (see mine in pic below).   I prefer this to a larger 'proper' tank-bag and its capacity of (guesstimate) about 3L or so and immediate on-the-road access to camera, mobile phone, etc., makes it useful for me.   Look creatively at such small hard bags in camera stores and bicycle accessories retailers on-line.