Installing K-tech Razor R Lite rear shock

[Waldo Jeffers]

I’m looking at buying this K-Tech shock but I have a question about the spring rate. I weigh ~195 without gear. Is it a safe bet to go with the 200-250lb spring? What if I lose 20lbs (unlikely, but what if), would I have to then go with the lower range spring. Sorry, I’m really not good with the suspension black arts. 

[piotrek]

16 hours ago, Waldo Jeffers said:

I’m looking at buying this K-Tech shock but I have a question about the spring rate. I weigh ~195 without gear. Is it a safe bet to go with the 200-250lb spring? What if I lose 20lbs (unlikely, but what if), would I have to then go with the lower range spring. Sorry, I’m really not good with the suspension black arts. 

I think that is a rider weight selector, not spring rates. If you use the Race Tech selector tool, the output rate for your weight is 11.08kg/mm, or 620lb/in. Sounds about right. Mine is 650lb/in but I have custom damping and some capacity for touring gear/load etc. Online tools are great to get an idea for a ballpark value, but it is still best to consult your vendor via email/phone. Need to be honest about the weight and cargo/pillion load etc.

Check out the Race Tech tool and if you need to convert values, Norwest Suspension website has a nice tool too.

Edited February 18, 2021 by piotrek
sp

[1moreroad]

1 hour ago, Waldo Jeffers said:

I’m looking at buying this K-Tech shock but I have a question about the spring rate. I weigh ~195 without gear. Is it a safe bet to go with the 200-250lb spring? What if I lose 20lbs (unlikely, but what if), would I have to then go with the lower range spring. Sorry, I’m really not good with the suspension black arts. 

Call Lenny Albin at K tech, but he'll probably recommend going up to the higher rate. I'm just a little lighter than you and went with the lower rate spring. Better than stock but really stiff. He is upgrading my spring. 

When you install it make sure you set the ride height to match your FJ first. Out of the box, the shock is a little shorter than stock. 

Lenny is the road specialist in the option menu. 631-231-9556

[Waldo Jeffers]

Do either of you @1moreroad @piotrek have the k-tech? Do you like?

[1moreroad]

1 minute ago, Waldo Jeffers said:

Do either of you @1moreroad @piotrek have the k-tech? Do you like?

I have it. I like it, but it blew a seal and it leaked after 2000 miles. Lenny is fixing it under warranty no question and changing to spring while he's at it. 

Rides better than stock for sure. Haven't done any really hard rides on it yet. 

[Waldo Jeffers]

Oh, and another thing. The shock in my cart at revzilla is a 2019 version and it says it doesn’t fit the 2020. That’s not correct, right? The bikes are same save the color, right?

[Waldo Jeffers]

1 minute ago, 1moreroad said:

I have it. I like it, but it blew a seal and it leaked after 2000 miles. Lenny is fixing it under warranty no question and changing to spring while he's at it. 

Rides better than stock for sure. Haven't done any really hard rides on it yet. 

That’s right. I remember reading that. Install wasn’t too bad?

[1moreroad]

I followed this video:

To set the tear wheel height, I put it on the centerstand and used a short length of 4x4 and books under the back wheel. 

[betoney]

1 hour ago, Waldo Jeffers said:

I’m looking at buying this K-Tech shock but I have a question about the spring rate. I weigh ~195 without gear. Is it a safe bet to go with the 200-250lb spring?

 

9 minutes ago, 1moreroad said:

Call Lenny Albin at K tech, but he'll probably recommend going up to the higher rate. I'm just a little lighter than you and went with the lower rate spring. Better than stock but really stiff. He is upgrading my spring.

Several posts here in the past regarding K-Tech spring rates, many have reported the "suggested" spring rate to be too firm with a harsh ride (their products seem to be set up more track focused) which resulted in swapping to the next lighter spring rate.  Again, highly recommended to call K-Tech and discuss your needs and be VERY HONEST with your abilities and intended usage so they recommend the correct springs for you. 

[piotrek]

15 minutes ago, Waldo Jeffers said:

Do either of you @1moreroad @piotrek have the k-tech? Do you like?

I do not have this shock... just commenting on spring rates in general. The shock has a good reputation around these parts.

[roy826]

I had a K-tech rear shock on my 16 Suzuki GSX-S1000, transformed the bike. I had the full kit front and rear on my last racebike a 2015 GSX-R600 with the cartridges up front and the DDS rear shock, best stuff I had ever used on track. And I have had many ohlins and penske setups through the years.

The stock 2020 Tracer GT stuff so far is working for me. As I push the bike more I may or may not upgrade it.

Edited February 18, 2021 by roy826

[fjray]

I keep looking at the stock shock and then the aftermarket shock and they are built backwards from each other, are they not?  I know damped hydraulic shocks should work the same from either direction but it seems odd that it's the opposite of the stock shock.  

[1moreroad]

56 minutes ago, fjray said:

I keep looking at the stock shock and then the aftermarket shock and they are built backwards from each other, are they not?

There's a height adjuster at the top of the K tech shock that doesn't exist on the OE. Rebound adjustment is switched to the bottom on the K tech. Preload is at the bottom same as the OE shock. 

[Yamaha Will]

Did anyone have any trouble with getting to the bottom bolt when removing the OEM shock? I went to lift the wheel after disconnecting the shock's upper hardware, and no matter how I manipulate the shock, the top of it always comes into contact and stops before the lower hardware is exposed enough for me to get a socket and extension on there.

Edited August 26, 2021 by Yamaha Will

[1moreroad]

1 hour ago, Yamaha Will said:

Did anyone have any trouble with getting to the bottom bolt when removing the OEM shock? I went to lift the wheel after disconnecting the shock's upper hardware, and no matter how I manipulate the shock, the top of it always comes into contact and stops before the lower hardware is exposed enough for me to get a socket and extension on there.

I had the same problem.

Use the video I posted earlier in the thread. The swing arm is actually carved out. If you raise the rear wheel high enough so that the mounting point is lined up with the swing arm, you can get a hand and a wrench in there. I couldn't get my torque wrenches in there so I just tightened it snug.