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2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

......... and later I'll offer my under-slung slim switch bracket to forumites at cost plus...

My first thought at this was.....

Homer_drooling.thumb.jpg.6c488e39ed15ee553f6cb97169fadd28.jpg

 

.. but then the realisation that this would have to come across the planet to get to me (read $$$$) turned it into .....

Doh.png.65d78d8929a63bca32141e79e082786b.png

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3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Bare in mind that any low slung switches could contact the fuel tank front cowl (cover) at full left lock; depending on your handlebar and where it is rotated...

@2and3cylinders - In truth, that would probably be an issue for me as I've got the Renthal street naked bar and have it rotated toward me and clearance with the top of the tank is at a premium ATM.  Excellent idea however and would be a great alternative to the other placements.👌

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RPGs are way too big and slow.  I have twin rotary 8 capacity drum 15 mm hypersonic rocket launchers with wire guided fire & forget alternating micro shaped charge and ADPS loads...

I'll be giving drawings of my brackets to Tony, so he can quickly test laser cut and then offer them to those down under for hopefully cheap.  In the mean time you have a great alternative!

It's interesting we have the same handlebar and hand levers but even rotated back a bit (with the bar risers also flipped back closer), I have plenty of clearance above the tank.  Much higher above the tank than the OEM bars? 

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PS, Dazzled,

Can you move your inboard side-mounted slim switch a bit more rearward and down so its buttons aren't "masked" by the OEM switchpod?

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10 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

- the top red button is an RPG launcher for cars that cut me off, 

I want one of those for slow moving Harleys and RV's... 😎

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Order placed with the new slimline switch gear.  😎

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"It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same"  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA

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55 minutes ago, fddriver2 said:

Order placed with the new slimline switch gear.  😎

So no more pouting!

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10 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

So no more pouting!

I'll quit pouting as soon as I hear that the autocad is fired up. 😎😀

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"It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same"  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA

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18 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

RPGs are way too big and slow.  I have twin rotary 8 capacity drum 15 mm hypersonic rocket launchers with wire guided fire & forget alternating micro shaped charge and ADPS loads...

😲😲😲 - I'm suddenly feeling outgunned!  😄  James Bond eat your heart out. Ha!

18 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

It's interesting we have the same handlebar and hand levers but even rotated back a bit (with the bar risers also flipped back closer), I have plenty of clearance above the tank.  Much higher above the tank than the OEM bars? 

I have changed out my OEM risers for Gilles Tooling ones and have them set right back so that must be the difference.  They are, after all, adjustable so bar height not necessarily set in stone.

Quote

I'll be giving drawings of my brackets to Tony, so he can quickly test laser cut and then offer them to those down under for hopefully cheap.  In the mean time you have a great alternative!

OK thanks for that.  I'll tell him that I was 'instrumental' in getting that organised and demand a discount.... not really.

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18 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

PS, Dazzled,

Can you move your inboard side-mounted slim switch a bit more rearward and down so its buttons aren't "masked" by the OEM switchpod?

Yes, is the short answer.  I've initially done it the way I have so that I could get maximum purchase/surface area of the double-sided tape onto the slim switch for maximum holding power.  The buttons aren't a 'soft' press and take a little bit of force to activate so wanted to give it every chance to hold on.

I'm sure it's do-able with fresh VHB tape and/or a holding screw or two if required.

I did wonder about the accessibility myself when making the change but it seems to be fine.  I do have skinny fingers mind you so those with 'larger' ones may find that TMMV.

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You could also fab a bracket out of thin black plastic that is taped to the OEM pod to provide larger bond surface area and move the switch back and down, with a small black rubber booster between the back of the switch and front of the clutch/mirror perch clamp.

Capishco?

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On 2/6/2020 at 11:18 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

You could also fab a bracket out of thin black plastic that is taped to the OEM pod to provide larger bond surface area and move the switch back and down, with a small black rubber booster between the back of the switch and front of the clutch/mirror perch clamp.

Capishco?

I do indeed capisco perfettamente!  Another good idea @2and3cylinders!

Here's another idea -  What I would like to see ultimately is an option to use that blanking plate on the OEM pod to mount two buttons.  There's plenty of 'real estate' for it and it would definitely make it that much more integrated.  I know the Tenere option allowed for that but a way too expensive addition IMHO.

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Question - could anyone tell me what Super Tenere and or FJR cruise switch assemblies are directly compatible with a 2015 switch assembly please?

Any that are not? i.e.  models before after a certain year?

TIA

EDIT:- May have found the answer??  It appears that all years 2014-2020 of Super Tenere's switch gear with this model number - 2BS-83954-00 - will fit.  Does this sound right to the learned many?  And does it also mean that all of the switches and buttons are interchangeable? i.e. pull a switch out of one and install it into the other?

EDIT2:- Just found this part no. for what appears to be the same part but for the FJR -

Switch, Handle 7 B88-83954-00-00

So again are the two parts exactly physically the same other than their wiring looms?

Starting to wonder what I'm looking at now so any insight or revelation is most welcome.  TIA

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8 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Question - could anyone tell me what Super Tenere and or FJR cruise switch assemblies are directly compatible with a 2015 switch assembly please?

Any that are not? i.e.  models before after a certain year?

TIA

EDIT:- May have found the answer??  It appears that all years 2014-2020 of Super Tenere's switch gear with this model number - 2BS-83954-00 - will fit.  Does this sound right to the learned many?  And does it also mean that all of the switches and buttons are interchangeable? i.e. pull a switch out of one and install it into the other?

EDIT2:- Just found this part no. for what appears to be the same part but for the FJR -

Switch, Handle 7 B88-83954-00-00

So again are the two parts exactly physically the same other than their wiring looms?

Starting to wonder what I'm looking at now so any insight or revelation is most welcome.  TIA

When MCCruise used to offer the option of using the FJR or Tenere switch gear, you had to buy a specially built wiring harness from them and specify at time of ordering.  I chose the Tenere switch gear as it was slightly less expensive but still had the controls that I required.  It is a direct replacement for the entire FJ switch gear and all connected wiring.

If you don't have the custom wiring harness then the optional switch gear WILL NOT WORK, you cant just buy the switch gear and use it as it is not plug and play.  You might try and contact Tony and see if they have any left over to sell you or possibly build you one on a case by case basis.  If I remember correctly, it wasn't cheap, $100+ for the custom wiring.

 

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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9 hours ago, betoney said:

When MCCruise used to offer the option of using the FJR or Tenere switch gear, you had to buy a specially built wiring harness from them and specify at time of ordering.  I chose the Tenere switch gear as it was slightly less expensive but still had the controls that I required.  It is a direct replacement for the entire FJ switch gear and all connected wiring.

If you don't have the custom wiring harness then the optional switch gear WILL NOT WORK, you cant just buy the switch gear and use it as it is not plug and play.  You might try and contact Tony and see if they have any left over to sell you or possibly build you one on a case by case basis.  If I remember correctly, it wasn't cheap, $100+ for the custom wiring.

@betoney - Thanks for the feedback.

What I didn't say in my original post was that I already had been in contact with Frank from McCruise and discussed the options.  He was kind enough to send me the drawings and specs of both of the harnesses in case I wanted to make one myself.  I do have the tools, pre-requisite knowledge and circuit diagram to complete the task as well as a contact in Japan that probably (would have to double check) has the genuine connectors - if I choose to go down that path.

However, there is another option that I'm toying with and Frank also says is an option, and that is to either get an OEM pod from a wrecker and just remove the rocker switch and power button and install them into the existing pod.  From there it is possible to simply wire up to those switches replicating the function of the slim or original McCruise switch harness and forget about making the expensive and convoluted 'other' harness/s option.

So, this was the reason behind the question as to whether the FJR and Superten part numbers are compatible with the FJ/Tracer pod in every way other than the wiring harnesses.  I need to know if that rocker switch (SET,ACC/RES,DEC) and Cruise engaged button will simply drop straight into my OEM pod.

But wait, there's more!   As a final option, there is the possibility to source good quality (third party) Rocker switch and power switch and install them into the OEM pod's blank panels and utilise the same wiring harness as used by the McCruise versions.  I'm seriously considering this one.  It would be the cheapest option but still keep all of the controls within the existing pod.

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