How much brake fluid required when changing lines?

[Yamajank]

Is it necessary to change the pressure switch when performing this task?  I'd probably go with the Spiegler lines.

[dazzler24]

1 hour ago, Yamajank said:

Is it necessary to change the pressure switch when performing this task?  I'd probably go with the Spiegler lines.

No.  For my 2015 bike I replaced the mechanical switch with a hydraulic one because of the many reports of the OEM one getting gunked up and going faulty over time.

So, the direct answer to your question is no.

[Yamajank]

Anyone else had trouble getting the ABS to not "flush out" after the change of lines?  I don't want to have to take this to my dealer.  They are kind of idiots.

[betoney]

5 hours ago, Yamajank said:

Is it necessary to change the pressure switch when performing this task?  I'd probably go with the Spiegler lines.

 

4 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

No.  For my 2015 bike I replaced the mechanical switch with a hydraulic one because of the many reports of the OEM one getting gunked up and going faulty over time.

So, the direct answer to your question is no.

Agree with @dazzler24  You don't HAVE to change out the brake switch but the switch on my '15 FJ was one of the worst I have used, it got full of road grime and start sticking either off or on and needing to be "un-gunked".  I got tired of fixing the sticky switch and just finally replaced it with a Spiegler hydraulic switch and have never had another issue.

Spiegler Brake Light Switch

[dazzler24]

4 hours ago, Yamajank said:

Anyone else had trouble getting the ABS to not "flush out" after the change of lines?  I don't want to have to take this to my dealer.  They are kind of idiots.

For me, no is the short answer.  I used a vacuum bleeder to draw the fluid through and while it took some time to get all of the bubbles out I had no real issues.

I did however, deliberately activate the ABS both front and back (manually) just to be sure and then did another bleed.  Re-reading my earlier comments I did have some more bubbles to clear on the 2nd flush after ABS activation.

[2and3cylinders]

2 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

For me, no is the short answer.  I used a vacuum bleeder to draw the fluid through and while it took some time to get all of the bubbles out I had no real issues.

I did however, deliberately activate the ABS both front and back (manually) just to be sure and then did another bleed.  Re-reading my earlier comments I did have some more bubbles to clear on the 2nd flush after ABS activation.

How did you manually activate the ABS?

[skipperT]

On 3/15/2023 at 3:13 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

How did you manually activate the ABS?

2 ways:

-take it for a ride an operate the ABS. Rear is easy to activate, front takes a bit more skill and bravery. 

-EDIT: connect YDT as described in the ABS testing area of the Service manual. You’ll need a strong battery and possibly a charger connected to the battery to keep voltage levels up. I can’t describe it here off the top of my head, but it involves putting the ABS into the test mode, sidestand being down or up, and pressing the brake pedal and front brake lever at various times, as well as minding the position of the off/run switch. All this must be done with the jumper connected/disconnected as described. 

-Skip

Edited April 3, 2023 by skipperT
Corrected incorrect info

[2and3cylinders]

8 hours ago, skipperT said:

2 ways:

-take it for a ride an operate the ABS. Rear is easy to activate, front takes a bit more skill and bravery. 

-short the ABS test coupler as described in the ABS testing area of the Service manual. You’ll need a strong battery and possibly a charger connected to the battery to keep voltage levels up. I can’t describe it here off the top of my head, but it involves putting the ABS into the test mode, sidestand being down or up, and pressing the brake pedal and front brake lever at various times, as well as minding the position of the off/run switch. All this must be done with the jumper connected/disconnected as described. 

-Skip

I've "manually" kicked in the front & rear ABS,

I'll look at the SM about shorting activation but it sounds scary & dangerous; i.e., burn sensors & ecu up?!

[dazzler24]

18 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

How did you manually activate the ABS?

 

13 hours ago, skipperT said:

2 ways:

-take it for a ride an operate the ABS. Rear is easy to activate, front takes a bit more skill and bravery. 

-short the ABS test coupler as described in the ABS testing area of the Service manual. You’ll need a strong battery and possibly a charger connected to the battery to keep voltage levels up. I can’t describe it here off the top of my head, but it involves putting the ABS into the test mode, sidestand being down or up, and pressing the brake pedal and front brake lever at various times, as well as minding the position of the off/run switch. All this must be done with the jumper connected/disconnected as described. 

-Skip

When I say manually I meant the old fashioned way as described by the skipper in step 1 above.

I too must look into the step 2 method as that may save me some nervous sweat and butt clenching in future (as opposed to skill and bravery)

[2and3cylinders]

On 3/15/2023 at 11:41 PM, dazzler24 said:

 

When I say manually I meant the old fashioned way as described by the skipper in step 1 above.

I too must look into the step 2 method as that may save me some nervous sweat and butt clenching in future (as opposed to skill and bravery)

Have you done that yet?  I have a PDF of the 16 manual and it I thought wrongly talked about using a oem factory reader connected to the bike.  I have not yet looked at my 15 SM.

Where did you pick up this?

"short the ABS test coupler as described in the ABS testing area of the Service manual"?

[2and3cylinders]

One of my season pre-flight maintenance items besides replacing the doughnuts and throttle cables (thanks Brian for prompting me to add that item to my TBC list; NOT REALLY); is flushing the brake fluid again.  So getting the ABS to cycle is important after JIC.

I'll have to roll things together logically along with shortening my Razor R to lower the felt saddle height so I can mount and dismount easier.  I don't want to lower the saddle because I need all the legit can get.

[dazzler24]

14 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Have you done that yet?  I have a PDF of the 16 manual and it I thought wrongly talked about using a oem factory reader connected to the bike.  I have not yet looked at my 15 SM.

Where did you pick up this?

"short the ABS test coupler as described in the ABS testing area of the Service manual"?

The short answer is that I have not found it either!?

I just took the @skipperT's word that it was in there .....until I went looking and couldn't find it but it could be because (as my wife would say), I had a 'man' look.  I'll have another look and if I spot it I'll report but if someone else knows and wants to chime in then please feel free.

EDIT - this is another reference that I found but doesn't answer your question exactly though.

Here is a You Tube of someone doing the abs test/function on a 2013 Tenere.

 

[skipperT]

Ok, sorry for the (late) reply on this one. So to put this to rest,

-coupler location described on page 4-62 and 8-81 and 8-83 in my service manual. 
-procedure begins on page 4-65 or alternatively keep reading from 8-83 onward for list of codes and tests to be performed. 
NOTE: requirement for MINIMUM 12.8Vdc at battery while doing the output tests.

Looks like YDT is now required for Hydraulic Unit ABS activation, my bad-I didn’t realize Yamaha didn’t provide a way to short the coupler (a la S.Ten and FJR13) as they have done on other bikes. 
theoretically you could just install a jumper like Yamaha has said to do on those other models, but I don’t want to risk my bike and try it. EDIT - probably a bad idea!

If I run across a wrecked bike, I’ll try it and see what might get smoked in the ECM(s) by using the old jumper method (or not), and report back…

-Skip

Edited April 3, 2023 by skipperT

[skipperT]

A quick look at the wiring diagrams between 2 models show it probably won’t work - looks like the codes are read via can-bus from the ECM on our models, while they are read via can-bus from the ABS module on the FJR. 
grounding the Skyblue wire in conjunction with the sidestand and gear position switch positions allow access to DTC’s on the FJR. 
 

on the Tracers/MT’s grounding the Red wire at the coupler would probably result in sparks.

oh well,

-Skip

[dazzler24]

17 hours ago, skipperT said:

A quick look at the wiring diagrams between 2 models show it probably won’t work - looks like the codes are read via can-bus from the ECM on our models, while they are read via can-bus from the ABS module on the FJR. 
grounding the Skyblue wire in conjunction with the sidestand and gear position switch positions allow access to DTC’s on the FJR. 
 

on the Tracers/MT’s grounding the Red wire at the coupler would probably result in sparks.

oh well,

-Skip

Thanks for following up and clarifying.

Looks like we're back to the 1st method of activating the ABS if we have a mind to, and that's out on the road the old fashioned way.

Appreciate the time taken to investigate. 👍