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Front sprocket wear. Normal for 13k km?


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On 5/8/2021 at 8:52 PM, Buggy Nate said:

This! There is 100% alignment issues going on there. Probably why the chain wore out quick too. My old single thumper got a lot more out of chains.

Lot less hp in your old single, don't you think? 

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  • 5 months later...

To add to this topic, the front sprocket can be reversed and ran the other way. Maybe do this at 7k miles??

This is for the OEM front. I have 2 spare fronts, different MFG.'s and they both can do this also.  Just check the shoulder on both sides to see if it measures the same.

Too OCD/anal....Maybe.

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  • 1 month later...

As other have pointed out, I would be concerned about the sidewear/alignment. This tool isn't perfect, but can help. 

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1970 DT-250 / 1972 250MX / 1973 360MX / 1974 250MX & 1974 CZ 400 Red Frame & SC 500 / 1978 YZ 250 / 1979  YZ250 / (2) 1980 YZ 250 / 1986 YZ 490 / 1989 YZ250 WR / 1994 YZ 250 / (2) 2002 YZ 426 / 2007 YZ 450 / 2007 DR 650, 2015 FJ 09 / 2020 YZ 250

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@foxtrot722- I’ve used one of those Motion Pro tools for years, and highly recommend them.   Sometimes ‘really simple’ is the best approach.   It’s interesting that several of my bikes over the years don’t align correctly using the factory indicator marks on the swingarm & chain adjusters. 

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20 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

@foxtrot722- I’ve used one of those Motion Pro tools for years, and highly recommend them.   Sometimes ‘really simple’ is the best approach.   It’s interesting that several of my bikes over the years don’t align correctly using the factory indicator marks on the swingarm & chain adjusters. 

When my chain is adjusted using the MP alignment tool (and verified with digital calipers) the adjuster block and swingarm marks are off by one full line between left and right side. 

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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1 hour ago, texscottyd said:

@foxtrot722- I’ve used one of those Motion Pro tools for years, and highly recommend them.   Sometimes ‘really simple’ is the best approach.   It’s interesting that several of my bikes over the years don’t align correctly using the factory indicator marks on the swingarm & chain adjusters. 

This is true, I have seen the same myself. I have also seen where the left and right side indicators had a different number of marks on each side, so it mattered if you counted the marks from the front or back.

1970 DT-250 / 1972 250MX / 1973 360MX / 1974 250MX & 1974 CZ 400 Red Frame & SC 500 / 1978 YZ 250 / 1979  YZ250 / (2) 1980 YZ 250 / 1986 YZ 490 / 1989 YZ250 WR / 1994 YZ 250 / (2) 2002 YZ 426 / 2007 YZ 450 / 2007 DR 650, 2015 FJ 09 / 2020 YZ 250

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42 minutes ago, betoney said:

When my chain is adjusted using the MP alignment tool (and verified with digital calipers) the adjuster block and swingarm marks are off by one full line between left and right side. 

Yes sir, I have seen the same thing also, good point

1970 DT-250 / 1972 250MX / 1973 360MX / 1974 250MX & 1974 CZ 400 Red Frame & SC 500 / 1978 YZ 250 / 1979  YZ250 / (2) 1980 YZ 250 / 1986 YZ 490 / 1989 YZ250 WR / 1994 YZ 250 / (2) 2002 YZ 426 / 2007 YZ 450 / 2007 DR 650, 2015 FJ 09 / 2020 YZ 250

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I've never trusted the marks on the swingarm.  Since I bought the bike new made the assumption it was aligned and whenever I've adjusted the chain count the flats turned and make sure to turn an equal number of flats on both sides.  Since I'm at 18,000+ miles and have had the rear off several times and replaced the chain I probably should align.

For alignment I've always used the string method.  Simple and easy with a center stand.  Take a long piece of string and wrap around the rear wheel at the back of the rear wheel.  Then bring it forward on both sides so that it touches the edge of the tire at the back and front of the wheel.  String should be pulled to the front of the front wheel, on both sides.  Then check to see that the string on each side is the same distance from the edge of the front tire.  Basically you are putting a very long straightedge from the rear wheel to the front wheel to see if they are aligned.  I've probably made it very unclear but there should be youtube videos of how to do it.

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You couldn’t use the lines in the swingarm in the 80’s, the 90’s, and you still can’t use them. 
Using callipers is also not accurate as parts can be different sizes within tolerance. 
Photo Al is right, the only accurate way is to stringline it. 
Just out of curiosity I went and checked my recently stringlined chain adjustment and found the swingarm lines are out by half, and calliper readings out by 1mm. 

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6 hours ago, betoney said:

When my chain is adjusted using the MP alignment tool (and verified with digital calipers) the adjuster block and swingarm marks are off by one full line between left and right side. 

I do the same but increased the length of the alignment rod x 2.5, and have Lightech clone chain adjusters that have 1/6th turn click detents and 1.25 mm index scales; much easier and more accurate than OEM.  I also use a Chain Monkey chain pretensioner and MP Sprocket Jammer when tightening the axle nut.

And to topic, I have on occasion reused sprockets when replacing a chain but not often and never the reverse.  And on sub 115 HP bikes when replacing the chain, I switch to 520 sprockets and chain (EQ a DID ZVM-X), and bump up the rear cog two teeth for better felt umph.

 

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This thread got me paranoid and made me go check chain alignment.  I found the rear wheel aiming just a wee bit to the right.  I suspect this could be because last time I tightened the chain, I didn't do that step in the YouTube videos that tell you to run an allen key between the chain and rear sprocket to put tension on the chain.  Regardless, I won't be doing that in the future, I don't like that idea but will be sure to check alignment in the future.  I used the method that you are using when using that special alignment tool except I don't have the tool.  I have a perfectly straight strip of flat metal that is 13" long and 1/2" wide.  I placed the edge of this against the side of the rear sprocket, a bit below the chain around the upper part of the sprocket,  and the other end of the strip 13" away is just below the chain.  You can plainly see the alignment by looking down thru the links at the strip.

 

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4 hours ago, Skidood said:

I used the method that you are using when using that special alignment tool except I don't have the tool.  I have a perfectly straight strip of flat metal that is 13" long and 1/2" wide.  I placed the edge of this against the side of the rear sprocket, a bit below the chain around the upper part of the sprocket,  and the other end of the strip 13" away is just below the chain.  You can plainly see the alignment by looking down thru the links at the strip.

 

Great problem solving skills.

That would work very well.

 

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