DavidS

I can 100% confirm that the ground is not level. - actually it was Pythagoras who first proposed that the earth was round sometime around 500 B.C.

Hmmmm, carpenter level says mine is spot on. Is it possible some of you folks who are experiencing this phenomenon lean to the left or right?

Man, there is enough room on the engine to put a tea pot and a skillet for eggs. I wonder what that thing weighs......

Agree with betoney, there are a ton of great roads in Washington. Some that you might consider (In no particular order) would be: 1) State Forest Road 25 from Randle to Carson - road is a bit rough, but incredible twisty road through the State Forest is a blast. Ride is 80 miles with nothing except forest roads, so make sure you fill up on gas and food before you start) I like to go down, eat lunch and come back up the same way. 2) Hurricane Ridge Park - West of Seattle on the Olympic Peninsula. Incredible twisty road riding up (and back down) the mountain. And incredible views when you get to the rest area at top. (At the top, you can see over more than 18 separate peaks in the Olympic wilderness) Avoid weekends and holidays, as it's not as much fun when the cagers are driving around.... 3) North Cascade Highway - Highway 20 from Concrete to Twisp - make sure you stop at Ross Lake for the views - just make sure you fill up before this route, gas stations are sparse. 4) Highway 101 up (or down) the coast... 5) Mt Rainier - wear warm gear, it is chilly, even in the summer 6) Highway 97 north from Ellensburg to Leavenworth, from there you can head west on Hwy 2 to Seattle, or keep going north on hwy 2 to hwy 20 and go east across the North Cascade Highway - see #3 7) Hwy 821 from Ellensburg to Selah is a great canyon road following the Yakima River. starts at water level and climbs, and twists as you work your way through the canyons. about 33 miles, but I will sometimes take it both ways. 7) Roads in the Colville National forest are also very good, although I haven't spent too much time there - a bit far from where I live. Just a few of my favorite rides, hope this useful.....

The source of power you connect to can be either Switched (it only works when the key is switched on) or Un-Switched (it will work, and draw power from the battery even if the switch is off, or until the battery dies) If you had the power connected to a switched source previously, but connected it to a non-switched source after your installation, that might explain the difference now. Check to see if you have power to the socket with the bike (and key) turned off. If not, try again with the bike turned on. If that works, you just need to find a different source to connect the TomTom to that is switched.

When I had my ECU flashed, I changed that setting to lower the temperature. I think mine now comes on at 205 degrees f.

Well, if you don't have any electrical at all to the bike, I would inspect your wiring harness to see if some critter has decided to make a meal of your wires. I'm not sure about AZ, but up here in Washington State, they love to get into cars and motorcycles and chew up wiring. If you don't get any power anywhere, and your new battery is putting out solid voltage, even with a new battery, start following the wires from the battery and test to see where they lose power. I know there are a ton of fuses stored all all over the bike, so it is easy to miss one somewhere. Hope this helps, good luck, and let us know what you find....

bowlin01 - how difficult is it to remove the side panels with the crash bars in front of the panels? (or do you have to take the crash bars off to remove these panels?) And if you can tell, what would be the first part of the bike to touch ground if the bike falls to the side? It's hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like the side panels up front would hit first, and then maybe the engine cover just behind the crash bar. Or does the crash bar protect the engine cover. - thx

because of the awkward position of the key and how difficult it is to get my hand down that space while sitting on the bike, I turn my Tracer off with the kill switch. It's easier to get to the key when I am off the bike, so that is when I turn the ignition off, and lock the steering column.

The Tracer GT has mounting brackets built into the sides of the bike , which don't exist on the old FJ09. I don't think you would be able to just slap the Tracer cases on without some kind of modification to hold the cases. If I was in your shoes, I would look for used aftermarket Shad cases. They are a bit rounder, providing more room for storage (including a full face helmet), and still supported by Shad.

Corbin seats - I bought one for my original FJ-09, and another when I got my new Tracer 900 GT.

If it works when you hold it, but stops when you let go, it is likely a switch issue. I would guess that something in your switch has gone bad. You could try switching the relay to the other side and see if that works, and replace if it works fine on the other side. Others with more electrical experience may be able to help you troubleshoot.

There are aftermarket cruise control units for the older FJ09 models, MCCruise I think was the vendor I used. I had the 2015 FJ09, and upgraded to the 2020 Tracer GT. While there are a few items that only come on the Tracer, I had already added most of the of those items on my old FJ09. (including Cruise Control)

Shad and Yamaha use different mounting systems, you will need to match your top case to your mount.

Mine too, and I'll sell it to anyone willing to pay $5 and shipping

or if the brake lines have never been replace (or you aren't sure if they have) replace them. Stainless steel lines aren't much more money, and they perform better too.

4.8 gallon gas capacity X 44 mpg = 211.2 miles You are capable of hitting 200 miles on a tank, but likely choosing to get gas earlier in order to avoid finding yourself in a spot without a gas station. When commuting I wait until after 200 miles to fill up, but when riding for fun, I look for gas earlier to prevent running out at an inopportune time.

Welcome to the forum yamtracergaz, glad to have you join us. I tour with the Tracer 900 GT, but it does require some modifications to make it more comfortable. Adjusting your suspension is a must, and you will likely need more storage for proper touring. There are lots of 3rd party options for setting it up, just let us know if you have questions, or want any feedback.

That's weird, usually the bikes on the showroom floor haven't been prepped for riding, which is why it takes so long for them to get the bike ready after you buy it. Back in the day, I was the guy who prepped the bikes for test drives at a dealership in Alabama. We never put fluids in the new bikes on the floor until the bike was purchased, or we had a test ride with a pretty committed buyer. (I also put the bikes together when they arrived at the dealership)

I would buy one in a heartbeat if I was going to do some serious traveling, but for riding around town, or hitting the mountains, the Tracer is way more nimble, and much easier to handle. I am about to take a trip from Seattle to Chicago to visit my daughter, and would love to have a Goldwing to make that trip. I'm still trying to decide if it's worth taking my Tracer, or if I should just get on a plane. The wife says I get enough riding at home, and I should spend the extra traveling time with my daughter. I can't argue with that, but it would be one hell of a trip........ especially on a GoldWing!

Just curious, what are the dates stamped on the sidewall? Just curious if they sold you an old tire...... I love the PR5's myself, I had them replace the brand new stock tires (Dunlop I think) with Michelin PR5's before I rode the bike off the showroom floor.

I have found that a little Blue LocTite keeps it from moving, and still let's you get it off when you need to.

Well, if you have decided the Tracer isn't for you, then this post doesn't matter............ But.... The Tracer 900 has aftermarket windscreens (Madstad was my choice) to solve the wind issue, 3 cylinders, and the quick shifter too. And it's not a BMW! The Tracer fits all your requirements except the larger motorcycle, and with a larger motorcycle, you lose the light weight and nimble characteristics of the Tracer. I ride with a buddy who has the BMW 1200 GS, and he loves swapping bikes with me and riding my Tracer. "What I want is a larger motorcycle with good wind protection and shaft drive. This is the starting point. It would be nice with more than 2 cylinders and with quick shifter or automatic gearbox. And I don't want a BMW " Motorcycle's companies always make trade-offs to attract the largest market, but there is a huge after market for the Tracer and you can change whatever you don't like pretty easily. And the cost is hard to beat as well..... But if you truly have your heart set on something else, you will get a good price for the Tracer and you can go on your quest for your perfect bike. As for me, I have found mine.........

Well, everyone will have their own method, but honestly, it doesn't have to be aligned so precisely. The chain is constantly wearing anyway, and it should be replaced on a regular interval. Just eyeball it using the marks on the bike, and replace the chain when it shows signs of wear.

I have used Michelin PR4/5's on my old Fj09 and my new Tracer 900, I love the grip, and the traction and the feel is great. I'm going in tomorrow for a new set of tires, and yes, they will be Michelin PR5's.