duhs10

I think you found the problem right there, 3rd gear around 22 mph the engine is fighting to stay moving. I would expect that riding it like that it would be jerking quite a bit. Too slow in too high of a gear. I agree... this motor has torque to allow you to pull through the low RPMs, but it definitely doesn't like to stay there.

Hope your replacement lasts longer than mine.

If it's not making noise don't worry about it... I had the TSB done on mine. About 4k miles later the noise was back so I installed a manual tensioner and all is good.

@koth442 That's a great deal!

Everyone I know that has a FZ-07 loves it... fun bike.

@betoney... did you drop yours?

For me, YES. The Pazzo is straight where the oe is curved outward. And of course there are 6 settings for distance to help fit your reach. I have the eBay version of those levers.. grey anodized with black adjuster. They have been on for almost 10k miles now without any issues.

I'm at 13500 miles.. chain is getting close but still good. Rear sprocket shows almost no noticeable wear. Front sprocket has more. Think I will do just a front sprocket and chain when the time comes.

That conti trail attack looks massive... they pretty good on the road too?

@trokarr I have used regular tar stick and rubber cement style plugs on several tires without any issues... I personally think it's fine, but others will error on the side of caution and say replace the tire.

Glad it was something minor!

Does it just pull off or do you have to get a bit more physical with it? Notice any difference from doing it? I did mine at the same time as my ECU flash so hard to tell if it makes a noticeable power difference... but it definitely makes a difference in the induction noise the motor makes.

What does it feel like through the allen wrench? I toyed with a bit but... idk.. The vibrations coming through the wrench are more pronounced... you will always feel vibrations but when it's loose it will hit the guide a little harder. I have about a 1/4 of a turn between hearing rattle/lots of vibrations to quiet/less vibrations. Honestly not sure if that's where it needs to be, but was close enough for me.

@koth442... I had the same feeling with the CCT. After messing with it a few times I'm satisfied that I have it in a good spot and am glad i went with the manual tensioner. Even if you cant hear it, you can really feel when it's loose through the allen wrench... Levers look good!

+1 ... cheap and thread right in

@Jimster make sure both ABS/wheel speed sensors are seated fully into their mounts.. as easy as they are to install it is also easy to have them slightly off as well.

that is good to know, and you don't have any scratching or film residue on the visor? Never had any issues.. just don't use any harsh chemicals and you'll be fine.

I use dish soap and water.

Producing a LED is trivial. Turning into a pointer isn't too bad. Making a laser pointer into a well collimated, steady output beam requires some optics and power management. Plus the bracket must be aligned to the laser which requires some careful measuring and assembly. For reference, this is a "quality" laser diode module that is very well collimated. This would be over kill for a chain alignment tool, but you get the idea of price. https://www.thorlabs.com/thorproduct.cfm?partnumber=CPS635S In sort: laser points are cheap, making them useful for alignment is not. Yeah makes sense... I can buy a laser level that shoots a straight line across a wall for $20. Didn't think there would be much of a difference.

@dbeau yeah it wasn't bad using the motion pro tool, but I had to adjust and look at it a couple times until I was satisfied (which I'm still a little skeptical but I'm sure it's close enough)... I don't understand why the laser alignment tools are so expensive.. Profi Cat's tool is over $100usd for basically a laser pointer.

I would suspect ignition switch or maybe side stand switch. I feel like Ive read where someone else had a similar issue and it turned out to be a faulty side stand swith.

How many miles didja get out of it? I'm at 22,225 on the OEM. I've got a backup ready to go when the time comes, feels like it's getting close. I'm at 12,8XX... No signs of failing, but the replacement was cheap so i went ahead with it... overall very easy process as well. Might pack it whenever I take out of state rides so that I have a replacement just in case.

Finally replaced the clutch cable with the updated version.. mine never showed any signs of fatigue, fraying, or excessive stretching, but I have a 600 mile ride coming up and didn't want to find out it was failing when I was out of state. I also installed the Gilles Tooling axle blocks/adjusters since the drive chain slack needed to be adjusted anyway. I used the Motion Pro chain alignment tool to line up the sprockets (right side adjuster is about 4mm further forward on adjuster marks than left)... but it seems like I'm getting a lot more chain noise from the front sprocket... could just be in my head since I test rode it around my neighborhood with no helmet or maybe because the chain now has proper tension on it? … and by "proper tension" I'm not talking about what the book says. Seems to ride straight, no wobbles, no swaying, turn in seems normal. What should I look for to determine if my rear wheel /chain is out of alignment?

I have my OEM risers flipped forward for a more aggressive posture... so no help here. Anyone with risers? What are yours set at?

What do you use to re-key it? I was told that I wasn't able to so I've been carrying an extra key around...