2and3cylinders

Very interesting I don't think airbag pants are in my near future dueto my physical limitations just getting on and off The bike that such a garment would presumably more difficult But if you do move forward and by the pants I'm sure you'll give us a review. And if you do try to transfer the airbag to another pair of pants, Let me know because i'm somewhat of a tailor and have made motorcycle pants out of leather, and nylon is easier. It should be doable

Years ago when Forks by Matt was still in business, I had him put together a custom set of OEM cartridges with his own shim stack but with rebound in both legs and adjustable compression in the left. That in conjunction with sonic .90 springs have provided excellent performance for only $350 after his core charge + $80 for the springs and $65 for the second rebound / preload fork cap with the rebound rod. I use 16 cSt @ 40C fork fluid set at about 5-1\2" for the air gap. I also bought my k-tech razor r shock from him for about 600 bucks including a custom thrust bearing for the spring preload. I dump & flush with ATF and refill semi-annually. Also after every ride I use a non-sticky rubber treatment that's compatible with the seals when I wipe off fork tubes with a microfiber towel cut in 2" strips

Years ago when Forks by Matt was still in business, I had him put together a custom set of OEM cartridges with his own shim stack but with rebound in both legs and adjustable compression in the left. That in conjunction with sonic .90 springs have provided excellent performance for only $350 after his core charge + $80 for the springs and $65 for the second rebound / preload fork cap with the rebound rod. I use 16 cSt fork fluid set at about 5-1\2" or so for the air gap. I also bought my k-tech razor r shock from him for about 600 bucks including a custom thrust bearing for the spring preload. I dump & flush with ATF and refill semi-annually. Also after every ride I use a non-sticky rubber treatment that's compatible with the seals when I wipe off fork tubes with a microfiber towel cut in 2" strips.

Huh?

Man! You're way ahead of me on maintenance but you're also farther north. Yeh, my R1 rotors AND MC were like $300 total. Same for my fork cartridges and Razor R, and all the other components I bought in 16~18. Only thing I haven't touched is the OEM exhaust; never even had it off. Yet the headers aren't bad, a nice even golden amber with little spotting. And there was the Pandemic... But Yamahaha parts compared to othe mfgrs are still almost reasonable. How'd you like the Mutants?

I had the OEM installed when I bought mine new and don't regret one bit😉

I ran Grip Buddies until my bad hands needed less radius? Even grinding down my Rental Street Nakeds I couldn't get tape on the left bar and fit the OEM heated grip

No one else mentioned that the higher price oem kit includes a whole new throttle tube / grip and throttle shell top half that makes for a LOT cleaner wire clutter free install. I just wish the oem, like Oxford and other AM kits had a slightly larger ID in the left grip to permit adding tape or shrink tubing over the bar to insulate it so heat didn't conduct back into it making the grip that much hotter. The throttle tube does that on the right.

Nice link but it doesn't go back to my 76 RD400 😎 Which I still have along with its manual.

No worries of saltwater here! Our youngest had a thankfully no injury head-on within 6 months of starting driving. But they're always your babies no matter how old they are.

Yikes! How long has your daughter been driving? She'll remember as will you and the rest of the family this event forever! Being out in the dark with no street lights must have been scary. Hopefully she can laugh if you ask her if for Christmas she wants an amphibious car. It'd probably be cheaper than a new Volvo. Good insurance? Like every urban area it's the people who know there's likely deep water and try it anyway who blow my mind. There are train viaducts on IL Rt 41 near Lake Forest and in Lake Bluff they've had to get scuba divers out more than once to save idiots! I'm not kidding. This is in Highland Park, IL where the July 4th "mass shooting" was, and where I played in the farm fields and creeks when I was a kid.

It may be a FI form of "vapor lock". Before your next ride grab a spare ignition key and have it in the fuel cap and try to simulate the issue. If and when it happens, open the fuel cap and determine if the issue clears relatively quickly. I think it may be a temperature sensor going off or a combo of them. Did you turn off the fuel cut and AIS functions (and remove and plate off the later feature) with your ECU flash? Also, blow-by in high temps can sometimes be excessive which can foul the filter and TB. TB sync and valve lash are not as likely if the issue is not and issue when starting and running hot but not excessively so but not shutting down then restarting. Fuel over-richness due to a temp sensor not leanness is suspected. An ignition advance delay or retard due to a intake temp sensor may be involved. Being a 15 (and 16), have you checked for trouble codes? Does the Shop Manual troubleshooting guide shed any light on the problem? GL Mate and keep us in the loop. High of 35 here today, F not C...

IFIYGD It's like a spring day here it may get up to 48 but tomorrow it'll be 36 and then no sun for another week

That's pretty oily how many thousand miles do you have You can clean up that one in the dishwasher on cold and mild (LOL) or just put it under the laundry sink with some mild surfactant and maybe a touch of kerosene but that stinks in the house so odorless mineral spirits will do Of course it's helpful to have an air compressor to blow it out before after brushing lightly with an old toothbrush and then to dry it If it's really dry you can give it a light misting of k&n filter oil Been doing it for eons including on my 110,000 mi Plus 98 VTR

What is that a Honda one twenty five on the bumper of you're my Miata? Quite the little load huh You can get carbon fiber case covers for a 100 bucks or less that will go a long way with your new but high up bars...

That's a conservative but wise approach in 60000 plus miles. I've done it 4 times because after the first time at 20k they were ALL tight so I checked it within 10000 needed to do 3 exhaust & 1 intake again. Then I checked again at about 50 and all was but I may be check it again for the fifth time this winter. I have to change the air filter anyway; although I can swap plugs by just tipping down the rad, and check (but not adjust) TB sync anytime because I put extension hoses on the TB nipples that I can pull out from behind the frame on the left side. I have several tricks if you want to call him that for making it easy to pull the cams. By by removing the APE manual cam chain tensioner the tensioner shoe and it's pivot pin to obtain lots of slack so I can hang a cam above the head well out of the way. The cam sprocket tool Yamaha lists can be had for like 15 bucks and it makes holding the exhaust cam in place easier. Because that's the one that wants to fight the valve springs. Of course I zip tie the cam chain to each of the cam sprockets before I remove anything.

There are always exceptions...

Do you really think the BB cover better than the ktm, which are bigger. I have the ktm and the BB plastics and the latter are smaller. I just don't have the bb brackets. Yet.

I had to do that in 1973 when I bought my first Japanese bike. Met the PO at HFC in San Francisco and paid off his loan and they signed over the title to me right then and there. I drove with him to Sausalito over the GGB to get the bike, had dinner with him and his soon to be ex-wife (why he was selling the bike, a cherry aquamarine blue 72 Honda SL350; great bike) and kid. Stayed there that night, and in the morning he went with me to the Mill Valley DMV, as he knew the lady clerk there; him being an ex-Sausalito cop. I didn't want to give up my home state license (which in those days were paper with no photo), so he vouched for me and I got a Cali license but without the MC endorsement; again, no photo. Had to go back later and take the written and field test. The latter entailed riding around in the DMV parking lot while the tester yelled commands. 5 minutes I had my endorsement. Only time I had to do that. In 50+ years since then I think I've had to take the MC written test once more!

One of the Amazon reviewers used an analogy of the oiler being equivalent to a syringe. That it must be filled from the bottom up with no air trapped, otherwise it would leak out without being pressurized. Is that entirely correct? Yet in the video it didn't seem like it was filled to the very brim; and the is no "bleed off" port. I guess I'll find out eventually. 😝

Good video how-to filling this oiler. Just got one but too late for this season. https://www.amazon.com/GIDIBI-Motorcycle-Lubrication-Grease-Universal/dp/B07KK6DP5B/ref=pd_sbs_sccl_6_5/146-0294463-8111965?pd_rd_w=AWKDs&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd9455ba-de47-4388-abd2-446637a34f4d&pf_rd_p=cd9455ba-de47-4388-abd2-446637a34f4d&pf_rd_r=G3919SWJJA3BBTA1AMV9&pd_rd_wg=97QMO&pd_rd_r=87ebc98e-7158-4180-a92e-2f657b435802&pd_rd_i=B07KK6DP5B&th=1

Go for it, especially if it's at a dealer.

How much? Oh U just said 3.5 Sounds OK to me. Some tasteful not overdone mods. The exhaust alone is worth over a grand. Is the stock shock spring also red, I can't remember as the K-Tech is red too? Is it as-is no warranty but with the helmet? LOL

Model; i.e., Street naked (not)?

You are sporty! What bars are those?