2and3cylinders

Most QD skewers are 4.5 mm They say photos make you look bigger than you are same for spacers LOL I presume with the skewer spacer install that that there is upper, lower and anywhere in between adjustments

Oh I finally got it I'm really getting thick

what material, OD & ID are they? they look like aluminum with a 6mm ID & 12mm OD... Thx!

Really brilliant! Where did you buy the spacers??

I do not understand what you're trying to say? 2 and 3 cylinders is based on me having a 77 rd400 and 15 FJ 09 BTW

Thanks! It is! What is "Five", 2015? I have the Givi barn door screen and mid-height DB both with top spoilers in addition to the bikini screen shown, OEM heated grips, Sargent, stomp grips, R1 220 mm rotors & radial MC, Matt's fork cartridges and K-Tech Razor R shock, ECU flash, SW-Mototech Engage TB, plus a whole bunch of other little mods that make an even better lightweight sport tourer with heavy emphasis on sport. Just wish I had time to ride it more, only 31,000 miles in first 2 years (bought it new in 16 but didn't ride it much in 18 or so far in 19). You're supposed to slow down at 65 and enjoy Medicare and retirement but I'm working harder physically now than ever!

You've got the same ones I have on my GV case guards I played around with where they were located but I believe I use them most by straightening my legs out and resting the back of my calves on them straight out I picked them up cheap on eBay in Black and use rubber to tighten them to the case guards

I remember him well too the slyde king little Jockie you see his Leathers on the wall I couldn't fit my left leg in them A lot of great Racers from Down Under incredible really considering the size of the population including New Zealand Always wanted to get down there particularly New Zealand but I doubt it will ever happen I've got enough on my bucket list here in the US I haven't done

ditto on the 15 zx1000 ninja 1000 abs, worked on them and the fairing is a pita but better for shorter riders and after heavy bar ends makes a very decent st though heavier

TIRES 36 or lower is ok, I never run over that. tire pressure is temp dependent, +10% from cold 70F Scalloping is not always evident, internal belt damage, out of round, balance, my front wheel is a BITCH to balance and takes over an ounce not matter what tire. OTHER Over or under tensioned steering head bearings; must follow procedure with fish scale and have feel for it. Do not raise tubes, that increases rake and decreases trail + less high speed stability but loads tire for better turn-in. F/R alignment Rotors warped/bent; hard spots & pad build-up causes causes pulsing under braking I HAVE NOT HAD ANY WOBBLE ISSUES IN 30K MILES ON MY FASTEST RED 15...

No worries I appreciate you responding they were about 438 bucks I was able somehow to get the cap working and back together though the detents or clicks are faint when you get farther in I still ordered a new cap and I guess I will replace it one of these days, like the next front tire change, sooner than later if there's a problem with the is a problem with the cap I think I know what happened if you do not have the compression screwed down quite a bit, when you're adjusting the rebound screw before you install it on the rod, the slot in the adjuster mechanism disengages from the blade and it locks up

Thanks

I checked Ebay but why buy bent fork for twice the $? Its stuck all the way in, I was setting it to back it out 16 clicks and lock it down...

I was replacing the fork seals and dust wiper on my 15's forks because after installing Mat's cartridges (has anyone been in contact with him recently?) and installing SKF fork seals and wipers, the compression screw O-ring failed and fork fluid leaked all over my left caliper and rotor, AND the SKF seals were too stiff and burnishing the sliders. So I took the chance and installed another compression screw O-ring and installed OEM seals and wipers but the right cap rebound adjuster when I turned it in froze and would not budge. It happened on the left cap as well (I have rebound in both legs) but it unstuck. I managed to disassemble the fork cap and remove the preload adjuster but the lower rebound "screw"( that is rotated by the upper adjuster that engages a flat "blade" on the screw but does not go up and down with it) is stuck fast. I tried drilling out body that appears has a detent that seems to stake the screw to know avail. I heated the body hoping the screw would turn; no luck. I froze the screw; still no luck. I can't figure out why it froze in the first place. Does anyone have any suggestion?? So I need another right fork cap (PN: 2PP-23111-10-00). Part Shark sells them he cheapest at $138!! I can't set the preload spacing and reassemble the right fork without a functioning cap. Grrrrr.... Help!

Linky?

LMK cuz I'll take it if they don't thanks

So you still have the exhaust for sale for 400? Is that including shipping and could you repost a photo of where the hole is where are you located? Thanks

Don't know how it popped out but it did Pulled that plastic, tank and air box many times and it's automatic for me to get it in the slot so I can only assume it popped out somehow or I just EFT up FYI the 2 tank collar pics & 1 with wire harness show placement of the illuminated switch just in front of where my tank bag ends for the twin LED driving lights with a spare hole for something else Which means I'm always careful putting the plastic back on in the process of connecting the three wires to the switch But even I am not infallible 🙂

I hear you regarding the super slab unfortunately where I live it's an hour on the slab to get to anything you could call a twisty in southeast Wisconsin from the bedroom community I live just outside Chicago When I have the discretionary funds and tore up coming later this fall I'll give it a shot thanks for your input

I'll triple check that I did remove the black plastic collar and it appeared it was in the tab and screwed down correctly TBD

I recall a while ago somebody else saying this happened to their fuel tank cowl, that it bowed up and doesn't follow the Contour of the tank I'm going to try to check with my dealer to see if they'll replace it under warranty Anybody else had this happen Compare right side to left

Does it help sport riding or just drowning down the slab? LOL I guess I could get used to it or sell it if I don't like it I want to get a ring for one of my other bikes but they're like 44 bucks!

Thanks, I have the smaller Engage which I also have full-forward (carefully use a Bic lighter to seal the fabric around the drilled holes and Acetone to remove the red off the rubber and maybe your jacket; and a pin to lock it on), and am concerned how much the back pouch and floppy top on the City will interfere with my stomach (which is 35#s smaller!). Especially when leaning-in during sport riding. I like the Engage for every day rides but for touring it's too small. I have a large enough mag-mount Held and Chase Harper clip-on that won't work on the FJ and like the SW system. Wish their tank rings weren't sooo pricy! Did you get it from Twisted T or RevZ? Do you have the SW skid plate too? Whose side cases are those? Top case rack looks like Shad.

And can you post side & top views of it? Thx

You wouldn't to raise the forks 10 mm when you put the bike up front and rear just have a 10 mm lower on the front scale and then raise with 10 mm board Front and rear balance in relatively lightweight was also the reason I got the FJ but it is more top-heavy than say my V-Twin albeit a vtr1000f which to me is much easier to roll around the shop than the FJ I certainly believe the mto9 Tracer GT weight includes the bags and the other fresh accoutrements mentioned and I certainly believe with my givi side cases top case K-Tech shock and other doodads that it weighs in close to 500 with fluids