dazzler24

I'm far from being an expert in oils (and many other things!) but I tend to believe what my oil manufacturer says on their product that I use. The Tracer (FJ09) user manual indicates that JASO MA is what's expected as the minimum for that motor. Quoting from the oil manufacturer's application guide (Penrite in this instance): - "PRODUCT BENEFITS MC-4ST 10W-40 is the superior performance premium engine oil with 100% PAO & Ester, synthetic base oils combined advanced additive technology including *FULL ZINC + (exceeding 1800+ ppm levels) for maximum engine, gearbox & clutch protection against wear, corrosion, oil oxidation, piston deposits and sludge under all conditions. It exceeds the requirements of API SN/CF and JASO MA. APPLICATION MC-4ST 10W-40 is designed for use in most modern four stroke road & sports bikes, dirt & enduro bikes, ATVs/Quad bikes and 4 stroke scooters that require a full synthetic engine oil. It is also equally suitable for use in transmissions with wet clutch systems where engine & gearbox oils are combined. It has optimum clutch slip prevention in these systems being compliant with JASO MA as is suitable for use where JASO MA1 and JASO MA2 is specified." HTHs

Yes, I'm sure I've read that some who wear glasses favoured modulars because it made it easy for them. Not all heads (and lids) are made the same I guess. 🤷‍♂️

I hear what you are saying and of course it's horses for courses. There's no denying that they are $$expensive$$.

So, I see that the Shoei Neotec 3 is now out in all its expensive glory. As well as a few tweeks over the earlier version, it will also integrate (for even more of the folding stuff) with the latest SENA SRL-3 mesh comms unit. I've had the previous iteration, Neotec 2, since 2020 and have been very happy with it. Personally, I'm not looking to 'upgrade' so soon but if you're thinking of a new quality modular style lid and don't want to have to re-mortgage the family home to get the latest, this might be a good time to keep your eyes peeled for discounts on the Neotec 2 as the retailers clear them from their stocks?!

Ha! Don't give me too much credit on that one as I was leveraging off the work of other bright sparks - or is it sparkies? Thanks anyway. 🙂

They still could be aftermarket additions as some of them 'appear' to be Yamaha OEMs if you use the screen menu as a benchmark. e.g. I used Heat Demons and they're installed to 'fool' the system into thinking they're OEMs.

FFS! Sorry to hear that. That would pi$$ me off big time but you seem to be taking it in your stride? Hopefully it's not a common occurrence in your neck of the woods? There are some real oxygen thieves out there aren't there! 😞

I too use a 'auto/manual' oiler and apply it just a little bit at a time. And I think importantly, is to apply it when you're just doodling around at low speeds. This, I imagine, is when the oil has more of a chance to work its magic and less chance of immediately being flung off. Like many others, I've used all sorts of expensive chain lubes but the one I'm the happiest with is the one recommended by the manufacturer of the chain I'm currently running - gear oil (80W-90). Sure it has a small amount of fling but leaves my chain the cleanest for the longest of all the 'flash' lubes I've used in the past. When I look closely at the chain it's very apparent that the 'O' rings ('X' in my case) are always 'damp' with oil without being 'wet'. An occasional wipe down with a clean rag and it's shining like a new pin again. 😄 Interestingly, my modern D.I.D chain recommends NOT to use volatile solvents as per the Maintenance instructions.

2 plus 3, To answer your questions:- "Did you install the former before the latter?" - Yes I did. "As the former are redundant, wouldn't the engine run a bit cooler without them?" - Probably 🤔 But I'm getting coolant temps that are nominal so haven't bothered is the short answer. Could have taken them off but I have a very small amount of rash on one of the OEM covers from some time ago when I was practicing slow turns and snuffed it! They are now really there to hide my shame.🙂

FWIW these are the Renthals I've got on my 2015 bike. Renthal Street Naked bar (819-50)

Replying to/updating my earlier post above..... After ordering my parts from Webike Japan on 10th August, they arrived today - 25th September. So around 45/46 days on the boat and through customs to my door. I'm happy with that timeframe given that they say to allow for up to three months for the surface option delivery and I was in no hurry anyway. I have to say that everything was packaged extremely well with loads of air filled padding. My only 'complaint', and it was my own stupid fault, was that only one of the rubber cushions of three that go under the springs of the slipper clutch assembly, was in the package! The part I'm referring to is 1TD-16178-00-ABSORBER 3 which in my defence comes as a 3 part kit when I checked my local Yamaha online parts webtool at the time of ordering. i.e. you can only order all three or none when you order 'one' of that part. The '3' on the end of the part number didn't help with my logic at the time either. The Webike site allows you to order them individually, it would seem, and the cost reflects that - great in hindsight of course! Anyway, I'll just have to order the kit locally and then have a spare one that I'll never use - dooh! So, all in all I've now got the following ready for install when the time comes: - 1 x Primary Driven Gear Comp B7N-16150-00-00 1 x Nut 90179-20010-00 1 x Absorber 1TD-16178-00-00 - (need three in total as described above) 1 x GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 2 1RC-15461-00-00

Rode it. After a few weeks of yard work around the property getting ready for spring/summer, it was time to go for a ride - AKA 'me time'. Extra hot day for September here but hey, isn't this the new normal?! 35C peak (95F). Average temps for Sept 24C (75F) Still, great to get out and I'm wringing the old girl beyond and sometimes well beyond the 6K RPM range more and more these days and have discovered a whole new machine as a result. I'm only doing it to get rid of all that carbon build up of course 😉 Love that induction roar when you go WOT. Makes you feel alive if you know what I mean - or maybe it's just that I'm getting older.....? 🤔

I was going to add my 2 cents worth as a long term 2015 owner but really, it's what these guys said. 👆 And if there's so many now on the market, you're sure to get one at the right price. 🙂

That poster (HylandRoad) was last here June 2022. He may reply but in the meantime this is what I found from the White Pages FWIW. This is the location he was at when I was looking into the Tuneboy CC a few years ago and the website still says Hornsby but I don't know if he's still there. Good luck. P.S. This from Google Street view at that address .......

EDIT Feb 2024 : Faulty starter relay was the cause of my woes. An old thread but.... I usually make use of the kill switch when held up at traffic works for an extended, but unknown, amount of time just to keep the engine temperature below the fan kick in level AND to keep all of the bikes circuits alive for a quick getaway. Occasionally, some of those behind think they're on the starting line at Le Mans and are impatient to move immediately and I'm never keen to be shunted from behind. The other day however when I was in this same scenario, I hit the starter button and ...nothing! Did it a second time....nothing. The third time thankfully was a normal start and away I went but if it hadn't I would have been pushing off to the side of the road. Just got me wondering if the drain on the battery when using the kill switch is higher because, and please correct me if wrong, I think all of the circuits remain alive including headlight and that maybe pulled the voltage down enough to signal the ECU that voltage wasn't high enough to attempt a start? - I'm guessing here as my kill switch technique has served me well over the years and I've sat for longer periods than the one just described and have had faultless starts. The battery is always kept on charge and is in good condition BTW. It's got me wondering about the capacity of my next battery as I've added a few electrical extras to the bike over the years (Cruise control, DRLs, GPS, misc other bits) that would all be drawing power while I'm on the kill switch. The original battery - Yuasa 10S - has a capacity of 8.6A/H. Its bigger brothers the 12S and 14S have 11A/H and 11.2A/H capacity respectively. The 12S and 14S are physically taller but if the spacer in the battery box is removed then they'd fit easily.

Did you swap rides at any stage? If so, your thoughts on comparisons?

A couple of things: - 1. Proved/tested that my ABS was working at the front end. i.e. some jerk in front decided that this was their turn off - RIGHT NOW! 😲 2. Gave the old girl a good bath with some foaming pressure washer product - scrubbed up well! Bike looked good afterwards too. 😉

Do a search for "USB socket" in this forum and you'll find several options that many have come up with.

Good news that you got it resolved and are happy..... however I have these nagging questions... Each to their own but for me I'd HAVE to know where that 'bolt' came from. Did the dealer follow through with that thought and look? Seems so odd from a workshop to say that there was a bolt in the mechanism so we removed it and you're good to go! No explanation or investigation as to where it might have come from? Surely it must have come from the bike (or a mod that had been done) and didn't just bounce up off the road and work it's way through the labyrinth of stuff to lodge there at that precise moment that you pinned the throttle!?? I'd like those odds in the lottery. Not wanting to cause alarm but if it did come from your bike, then what else has been potentially compromised? Having said all of this, I do recall that I dropped a hex driver while adjusting the handlebars some time ago and it turned out that it had 'used' the two throttle cables as a slippery slide and was resting between the two of them down near the throttle bodies - so anything is possible! 🤷‍♂️

Now there's a good looking couple. Hang on a minute.... are you sure that's not a photo of Jeff Lynne?

Ha! I have been and just got back actually before the forecast risk of rain arrives. This time the wife came for a spin for coffee at a little place called Witta up in the hills. It's about an hour and a half's scenic ride through the hinterland from home. i.e. around 3 hours easy round trip. 'B' mode unfortunately but that's much easier to keep the passenger happy and relaxed. She says she enjoyed the outing so I'm going to have to go 'A' mode next time with some red lining to ensure I get some 'me time' going forward 😉. Can't encourage her too much!

Uh-oh, After all this precision talk and then this - "Only right us Right!" Sorry 2&3 but I just couldn't help myself. It sat up at the perfect hitting height and I just had to tonk it out of the park - I'm sure you've got a sense of humour - I hope? 🙏 P.S. I should cut you some slack I guess considering it's around 1:15AM where you are?!

The wife gave me a day pass today so I pointed the bike West with no particular destination in mind. First stop was at the normally busy touristy Montville for a quick coffee lift. Very quiet today so relaxed for a few extra minutes under the fig trees, went for a walk and took in the great views to the coast before heading off again. Next stop was at a little place called Woodford where I came across this piece of steam driven machinery from the past that was under repair. Loved how the steering mechanism worked! Time to head back home but I made a final stop at an old Aboriginal site (Little Rocky Creek) where evidence of sharpening axes, spears and cutting stones can be seen in the sandstone rock. On the way back out I disturbed this big fella next to the path. He wasn't impressed that I'd startled him but I don't know who got the bigger fright! Only a Carpet Python but another pair of 'Y' fronts were required. 😏 All in all a good day with mild temps. While out, I took the opportunity to practice some of what was mentioned in another post - i.e. I paid for the whole tacho so I used the whole tacho - Whoooo Hoooo!

And just to close the story.... After considering going to the farrier for repairs I saw a tube of Shoe Goo for AU$14 in a local store and decided that as the SMX-1's were ~8 years old I'd go cheap and have a crack at it myself. While I won't be seeking employment in the shoe repair game (don't think they'd have me) I think I've done a reasonable job of repair. I also won't be doing any catwalk modeling in them but it would take close scrutiny to notice that repairs have been done and who looks at your boots anyway! They should serve me for a couple more years (or longer!?) That Shoe Goo stuff sure does hang on! So far, I've left them sit for two days before taking all of the clamps, weights and tape off them but will give it a couple more days to 'set/cure' completely before the ultimate test but I'm confident that they won't be separating any time soon. Cheers all.