mellow

82 between Talihina and Red Oak is a nice road. 2 is also a nice road a little further west. Pretty much everything gets better as go keep going past Talihina and the Byway.

The Tenere is a great bike... if you want something to tour on.. it's not a sport bike but a solid platform IMO.

Just say no.

It's a pretty simple system... just bleed it. Helps if you have a mighty vac or other type of bleeder but air would explain your issues. Brakes are important so don't take shortcuts or even look for them.. just bleed it.

Actually, I think it says 'Auto' as well so should be fine. I have a jetboil and several canisters of fuel that should last me a couple more years at my rate but I may try the MSR after that. The Jetboil is pretty convenient.

Yes

Added 2 Dryspec fuel bottle holders to the corners of my Dolomiti bags. Gives me 1/2 a gallon of emergency fuel. I only plan on putting them in the mounts on long trips, typically out west. But still ignoring them while on the trip so I don't try to count on them. The nice part about these vs the tool tubes is I can take the bottles and straps off and you barely notice the brackets. Also, I can still mount additional tool tubes to the givi racks if I needed 2 more bottles for some reason but again, I'll still ride like I don't have them and hopefully, this was a waste of money or the best purchase I ever made. win-win.

We'll probably never know the exact cause but I don't trust dealers to do anything. Even with a recall I'll get parts myself depending on what it is and do the work. In the past I've found missing or loose bolts and even though I may not be an expert I have a vested interested in doing the work correctly and have the time to double or triple check everything. I wouldn't personally put this on the bike or engine, I'd put it on the dealership that should have done an adjustment but were too lazy. I wouldn't even trust the spec THEY give you because if it's .002 out of spec and they say it didn't need an adjustment, they're going to give you and in-spec number to CYA... A replacement engine seems like the best option. But, if you like the bike then keep it... also, do the valve check yourself on the replacement.. and moving forward.

Added some Denali DM lights to my existing light bar. Was going to mount lower to the fender, and might still do that in the future, but actually like this look:

That's an odd scenario... I'd prefer them to come on as soon as I hit either brake. Especially since, being on a motorcycle, you can brake at shorter distances. If someone was tailgating me I think I'd use the throttle to get further ahead of them or show down enough that they didn't want to use me as a rabbit anymore and pass me. I haven't found any noticeable lag between when I press on the foot brake and I see my brake like go on.

Hmmmmm are you saying the passenger is baggage?... and, does your SO see your browser history?

Looks to me like a bracket off the actual windshield front plate.

It's more about ease of use... I despise side loading saddlebags because there's not really a lot of useful space and opening them without stuff falling out is just about impossible without modifications. I almost went with the shad 23 top loading bags as they were smaller but I didn't like the rack design and givi is typically tougher and have more options down the road. Also, the rack can be removed easily. I don't load the bags up with lots of heavy stuff, it's more about being able to pack, unpack and access your stuff easier. Yes, they are 36L vs 22L so the bike is wider and probably take a 1-2 mpg hit... maybe... but it's worth it. I probably, on a tour, will only fill one with light stuff like clothes, sweater, extra gloves, small jet boil and some coffee and the other with tools, tire repair stuff, sandals, rei flexlite camp chair, maybe some rain gear. The top box is mostly empty other than a lunch container w/electrical cords, phone charger, extra sena headset. That leaves me room to get some food on my way to the campground. The nice part is when I open the lid, half of my stuff doesn't fall out.. lol

Not Yam cases but I have no problem with all 3.

Not with the corbin seat which is one piece and a pretty stiff seat pan.

I plan on replacing the OEM with this: That way I get a viewable voltmeter along w/2 USBs which are more useful. Then, I'll add a constant-powered one like this so when I need it I can just turn it on and it also has a voltmeter which will let me know when it's on so I won't forget to turn it off:

One thing I love about the garmin 595 is the up ahead function that only shows things along your route so when it says there's gas 10 miles away, you know it's on your route. Previous garmins would show 10 miles away but then you select them and find out it takes 30 miles to get there and the one you just passed was your best option.

Lots of variables but look for gas at any point after 150 miles to be safe, that's what I do. Can you get 200 and over?.. sure, but that whole YMMV phrase might come into play.

He stated he got on the brakes and that's what saved him... IMO... that's what was the issue, as you said, the bike stood up.. which usually happens in a curve when you stand on the brakes... best to trust your tires, lean it and throttle out... glad it wasn't worse.

The black is the ground and the brown w/yellow stripe is the hot.

I'm going to get a couple of these: Amazon.com That way I can replace the oem one on the left, keep it 'on' so when it is powered I get a voltage readout via the cover - at least I hope it works that way. Then, I'll add a constant powered one on the right side direct to the battery and only turn it on via the push button when I need it.

Yup same here in fact it I do use it it was a mistake lol

more than likely, you have a bad wheel balance or bad tire. I've had bad roadsmarts years ago when they were having issues and got a bounce from the front new tire.

Doesn't matter, flip them and that gives you more room to get to your key.

You just flip the top halves...