mellow

That's what I did with my garmin harness... they don't touch anything so no harm no foul.

OMG.. lol.. I thought, here we go another boring off road video that doesn't really interest me much.... ha!

Love my Akra exhaust. It's only a little louder than the oem, so much so I'd say it's not really that big of a deal, until you really get on the bike but even then it's a nice sound, not an obnoxious one. No ecu flash required.

When I actually see something on the Yamaha site for a redesigned Tracer 900 GT, THEN, I'll believe it.

I think for the denali data dim you have to add a relay no matter what, and create a positively triggered switch that way. Wire up a negatively switched relay triggered off the yellow/brown wire in the led headlight control. When the high beam is hit and it triggers the negatively wired relay, that hot out of that relay becomes a positively triggered item... I have my negatively switched relay for my aux rigid lights so I could add the denali data dim and wire it up exactly as denali suggests but use the + side of one of my aux lights as the trigger for high beam, then wire the + behind the windshield outlet as my switched. At least I think that will work.

Thanks for the pics.. Finally got mine all wired up, was going to just resort to the positively switched separate switch but I hate that option so rewired the relay and works perfectly! I also found a couple of images on amazon for relays that showed the difference between the 2 ways to wire relays:

Lights next... some Rigid D2s from my previous Super Ten.

Added some reflective rim stripes.

Yup... lol

I don't like messing with keys at gas stops and I thought I'd try the Vortex V3 Fuel Cap I got from Revzilla. I haven't had a chance to try it out and use it on a regular basis. The fit/finish is very nice. I'm hoping the opening isn't an issue with seeing how much gas I put in when it get's close to the top.. we'll see. I'll either love it, like it well enough.. or sell it.. lol

Mine never actually failed... just loose x-rings... probably 10 when I replaced it at 6k miles with the EK chain with the Death-Screws... It now has 6k on that chain so it won't be long now.. 😱

Exactly my experience... but I figured I'd try it because Sargent seats are great on the ST1300 but the ones they made for the Super Ten were terrible, maybe they have updated them.. anyway, I figured I'd roll the dice and glad I did because it's an easy 1000 mile seat for me and not hard at all, just firm and far from oem soft. If the oem is a 1 and hard as rock is a 10.. the corbin is a respectible 8 for me... 5 and 6 would still be soft to me. Ok, I think I confused myself.

To follow up on this thread some... if you want to level the seat out even more, you can cut half of the seat bracket off, leaving just the front section. Then you can slide the corbin front into the high position but the middle of the seat sits lower on the frame vs the back part of the bracket and that gives you some extra height in the front.

Mine didn't budge... said it was a wear issue and that's that... oh well. I didn't really argue at all, I only go to a dealer one time during the life of my bikes and that's to pick it up. They never see me again lol

Check this out

I had a similar issue with my oem chain... and I didn't feel like I trusted it so I went with the EK 525x118 chain w/screw master link and that has been great. I changed it at 6k miles and it has 6k on it now and looks like new.

Most wrap is pressure and heat applied... apply with pressure and the little card they come with then finish with a hair dryer/head gun as that will heat up and expose any air bubbles but also allow the adhesive to stick better. I don't think it's going to peel. With wrap, you want it to lay down and you don't want to stretch it if you can help it as that stores that energy.. that's one reason why I didn't do the whole bag or any complicated edges, just makes it easier and it's more like a decal at that point.

I put a towel in the opening and then just had a punch from my tools. light tapping w/rubber mallet... always on the right side obviously since you typically fill on the side stand. I usually hit the fuel warning at 170-180 and put in 4.1 gallons.

I did it on my Tenere and also on the GT when I got it... it helps some... but really, filling up at about 150 miles is about the best thing you can do. I punched a couple holes and it still fills slow so not sure it's a huge benefit.

I got the knifeless tape and it works pretty good once you get the hang of it... definitely better than me trying to cut a template. So, 2 options... the center part of the bags silver which in my opinion doesn't really follow the other silver parts of the bike... or, just the top and bottom sections which to me looks more like it belongs. I'm not done as I've ordered both black and silver reflective yamaha emblems/text to either go on the silver panel or black section. Will post when I figure out which one I like best. please feel free to comment good/bad/are you nuts... Funny thing, the center panel looks grey in some light but all the wrap sections are the same color.

That's slick.... sorry, had to.

My Corbin seat has been a lot better than I ever expected... not hard at all and you can place it in the upper setting in the front and it removed much of the slope.. enough that you forget if there's a slope. Not as cheap as other options but so far it's been good enough for me to forget about the seat at all when riding.

There's a 600 mile service ? OOOOOPS!

Where did you get those? I think it might even look good on the saddlebag lids themselves.

I did a quick template for this but the lines are off, you'd notice it in person. Knifeless tape should work much better.