RandyN

Had Vcyclenut do mine also and was great to work with. Went over to Ft. Myers and had him do it there.

I had the same issue at first. I adjusted the position of the control pods, bars and levers and that mostly cured it for me.

I find that on flat Florida roads I wear out rears faster than fronts and in Carolina mountains the fronts go faster. The OEM tires on it I got about 5000 miles on them and had plenty of rubber on them, other than a bit flat in the center of the rear. Brought the bike up here and then rode another 2000 and wore out the front, while the rear still could have gone a little more. I then put on Dunlop Roadsmart 3 set. Have ridden around 4000 miles on them and front might go for one more 250 mile ride before I hit the wear bars and the back could easily go 1000 more. Point is it's mostly your riding style, types of roads surfaces, and aggressiveness of riding. By the way these are great tires and I have another set waiting in the basement to go on. They really start out very neutral and light in the steering and don't noticeably change as they wear. P.S. Spellcheck says it's tire not tyre. Besides, American English is the most popular. The Brits may have invented the language, but Americans streamlined it and made it more efficient.

Can't take credit for tip. I read it here on forum some time back. Never knew it was in manual, although I did search for it.

Mine was so inconsistent that I gave up on it and turned it off. It may be partially my riding style, but I've had someone else ride it, he was an ex roadracer with quickshifter experience, and he agreed it wasn't good. In case anyone needs the method for shutting it off it is; Start with bike off, hold shift lever up (fairly firmly) while turning on, hold the lever up for for about 15 seconds. QS in upper left corner will disappear. To reengage it is the same method. Sometimes had to repeat sequence several times to get it to change.

I have one on my Concours and agree they are very comfortable for long hauls. I'm not sure I would like it on the Tracer though being that it is used in a different way. More aggressive riding. Let us know your thoughts when you've had some time on it.

I seriously considered and would like to justify the $600 difference for the Graves, but I just couldn't do it. I'm too cheap! I like the word frugal actually.

You're right! I missed the difference.

The R&G model on my bike is 75mm where the turn signals mount.

If they aren't being helpful then maybe take your business elsewhere. Check this one out. https://www.amazon.com/Fender-Eliminator-Yamaha-Tracer-2015-2016/dp/B072XWTL4H/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=tracer+tail+tidy&qid=1563200485&s=automotive&sr=1-4 As far as I can see it looks the same as R&G version (Chinese knockoff?). Probably doesn't come with any extra parts though.

That is looking directly up from rear tire. Bolts furthest forward are 3.375 inches apart, back bolts are a little closer together (about 2.75 inches, couldn't measure accurately). Front to back bolts is about 1.5 inches. You might be able to go to the manufacturer site and download instructions which should help you decide.

Mine is an R&G. It comes with a lot of extra pieces so you can choose the type of blinkers you want to install. Many extra wiring connectors and adapters included. In my opinion it is worth the extra money for ease of install. Sorry I don't have picture with the bags on, I rarely use them. Blinkers are a tight fit, but I like the look. Very neat. Tail Tidy for Yamaha Tracer 900GT '18- Tail Tidy for Yamaha Tracer 900GT '18-

I put soft ties on lower triple clamp, (easy to get to) and removed the handguards to use Canyon Dancer straps. Only takes a couple of minutes to remove guards (I think it was a 6mm and a 4mm Allen wrench to remove). Also put tie downs on passenger foot peg bracket. That photo was when I bought bike in Macon, GA and had no idea how and where to strap it. Total of six tie down points. I've lost a dirt bike due to a broken strap and I'm extra cautious now. Be careful using the soft ties or the soft Canyon Dancers on heated grips. The stress and twisting of the grips can break the heating element n them.

Sorry about not posting the year. The 900 GT has only been in the States for 1 year. 2109. It may look like Evo-Tech, but it's not, I've never seen one though.

Found this on Amazon for $57 and it stated it fit FZ09 MT09 2017 2018 2019 XSR900 2016 2017 2018 Tracer 900. So I looked up the part numbers for all of those bikes radiators and they were the same part (2PP-12461-00-00). Also, the 2017 FJ09 is same radiator so it should fit that as well. I thought I’d give it a shot, could always send it back. It fit perfectly! Came in a decent cardboard box with bubble wrap and padding to protect it. Pretty thick aluminum sheet that is bent and cut to fit around mounts. I'm sure it would take a huge rock to get past it. Hexagonal holes that look like they should flow air just fine. Looks like black powder coating which seems pretty tough. I did put a crescent wrench on it to bend ends in a hair so it fit tighter against radiator mounting points. Didn’t scratch it at all. In photos, first one is the damage on my radiator from 10,000 miles of riding. Got lucky that the radiator didn’t get punctured from the rock that hit at the top. Put a nice dent in it. All the other white spots in photo are small paint chips from gravel. Roads in NC, TN, and GA have a good amount of small loose gravel on them. Second photo is of the guard alone with the small brackets from the bike next to it. These mount on the outside of guard and is where the plastic push pin goes that holds side plastics in place. Stock bolts in photo fit fine, length was adequate. Third photo is on bike without plastics in place yet. Very easy install I should have done a long time ago. Highly recommend this add-on. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N37TLK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the Yoshimura Full race series with R-77 carbon muffler I got from 2 Wheel Dyno works and I'm very happy with it. Left the baffle insert in to keep it a little quiet. Sounds great and a noticeable power increase. About 11 BHP increase on dyno with Vcyclenut ECU flash. Reason I used Vcyclenut was he was local and I could drive there. He was very accommodating. FZ-09 / MT-09 / FJ-09 / Tracer 900 / XSR-900 Yoshimura Sport Performance Package – 2 Wheel DynoWorks

I do the same in holding the switch when starting it. I agree with the previous comments on this system in that it is a bit primitive compared to other bikes. Rode a KTM Super Duke GT and that system is so much more advanced. It would allow me to float the front wheel and gently set it down on its own. Try that on the Goo GT and it mostly just kills the power. Also, can change the KTM on the fly I believe. StealthAu, keep us informed as to how your mod works out please.

I also have the Roadsmart 3 Dunlops and can say I like them very much. Big improvement over stock tires. They have been used exclusively in NC/GA/TN mountain roads so far. Handling of bike is very light and neutral. Easy to turn in and stays where I want it. Have put about 1500 miles on so far and no noticeable change in handling with that amount of wear. No scary moments yet but No rain use yet though. Maybe today.

I had mine done there. Very helpful and put up with me and my pickiness.

If you go with a slightly taller tire please let the rest of us know your experience. As said it most likely will make it quicker to turn in but it could throw off the ABS/Traction control system because of a larger circumference. I'm not knowledgeable enough to say that it will do that, but it might. Anybody had any experience with that?

I had mine flashed by Vcyclenut. I live in Ft. Laud., FL and he is in Ft. Myers so, I was able to go there and have him do a little tweaking also. He was very accommodating and helpful. I have also had dealings with 2wheeldynoworks. Bought my Yosh full exhaust from them. They were also great to deal with. Just wanted to have the flash done a little more locally in case of the extra tweaking.

The previous posts saying to up tire pressure and/or change front tire are correct in that any small variable can change the nature of the situation in which you are getting the shakes. These are oscillations that build up and can be damped out in a variety of ways. Steering head bearings being one but not only thing.

Had this same problem with 2 different bikes. 95 Vmax and 2001 Gold wing. The simple fix for both of those was to tighten the steering head bearings to just before the point where the tightness of bearings starts to effect the steering, as in making it sluggish or make you not be able to ride with hands off bars and steer with body weight. What is being done when I did this is to have the steering bearing act as a subtle damper. Takes a little experimenting to get it right.

First off, any unwanted movement in the the dust/oil seal could allow it to leak. Secondly, it's annoying to have that "clunk'. Third, I'm no expert on this, but I would think the looseness could induce problems such as head shake and wobble at speed.

I have found the source of knock/movement, at least on mine. Took the front end off today to ship out for Traxxion rebuild. While doing removal I thought I'd do a little more investigating. I had tried tightening head bearings, but that didn't do anything other than, when too tight, make the steering stiff. While front end was lifted off the ground was able to isolate where the problem is. The lower fork legs are moving in the upper aluminum tube. I could feel and see it moving around in the dust seal. The inner bushings have too much play in them allowing movement. Hoping that Traxxion will be able to fix this with thicker bushings.