1moreroad

So I've continued to read about this. Lost length might be rear seat or more compact electric motor than ICE. The outside sheet metal is so angular for simplicity to keep mfg costs down. That suggests that it will be very heavy, which will impact range.

Took the FJ out to test ride a new pair of Aerostich AD1s. 50 degrees and really windy. Just a quick 40 mile ride. Caught the boat dock right at sunset.

I change bicycle tires in less than 5 minutes. *In theory* moto tires should be identical. Somehow I struggled repeatedly. When I found shops that can install tires for about $25 each, I was done and let them do it. Takes them 30 to 45 minutes and no scratches or scuffing.

Did you get your PIAA lights installed? What did you think of the wire harness?

Just replaced my classic Roadcrafter with a Klim Apex jacket and a pair of AD1s.

$25. Am I the highest bidder? Seriously, how much are you thinking? Asking casually.

There are a couple of tabs that take a moment to line up, but, no, the panels don't fit perfectly. Double check the tabs, but otherwise you're ok. Tabs are behind the "air scoop" side panel.

Funny to see this. For the 1st time on a 2015 I noticed about a week ago that once or twice I had to press the rear pedal hard to activate the light. Once it worked again, any pressure was ok. I guess the sensor gets a little sticky?

6.5' bed with same length as F150 with 5.5' bed. Where was the length lost? I'd be afraid of high curbs with those wheels, never mind dirt. Wondering what AT tires do to battery range. I hope that's the lowered air suspension and not the weight of the ATV that is causing the back end to drop. 3500' payload is well into F250 carrying capacity and close to F350 ratings. Stainless steel not aluminum? All for $40k? The sticker price of a plain Jane 4x4 F150 supercrew is the same. Something doesn't add up. I do think there are a lot of good ideas like the built in ramp, but I'll believe it when I see it.

Sorry not sorry to disappoint.

That's just a small office kitchen sink. Sorry.

Poor, wet bike. OTOH, replacing 1/2" spacers with 1" spacers in the Givi windshield made a huge difference in smoothing out air. I'm now sitting behind the windshield. I'll probably keep it this way until spring. I'll swap spacers and handguards at the same time.

Not exactly what you're looking for, but take a look at this if you're only having issues at low speed. I have one and it makes in-traffic driving much smoother. Yamaha MT-09 FZ-09 MT09 FZ09 Tracer FJ09 FJ-09 O2 Controller If you use this mod on your 2016/2017 MT09 ABS + TCS it will work in... Otherwise, I'd think you have to reflash to get the best performance.

Stumbled on it in a post somewhere. Instead of buying a $90 chain tool, I bought a $17 screw on master link. I only need to change my chain every 2 - 3 years, and I only have one bike, so it made sense. You have to know to look for them, but they're on the Sprocket Center website. There aren't a ton of reviews on the internet, but every one I found has been positive up including liter bikes. I used this Youtube video as a guide (which exactly matches the written instructions. It took about as long to thread the chain on the sprockets as it did to install the link.

First of all, thank you to this forum for all the good information including light reviews, part numbers, and help with accessing the aux power plugs. After doing a lot of reading on this forum and thinking about my own needs, I selected the PIAA LP270 fog lights. I feel like I can see far enough while riding straight so I didn't really want driving lights. I needed a wider spread of light, and I needed a good cutoff. I wanted street legal lights. I had a set of TrailTech off-road HID lights on my last bike. While they were good for lighting up everything, the blinded all other traffic around you. Finally I wanted a set of fork mounted, not fairing mounted lights to try to improve spread in corners. I bought the lights and the mounting kit from Revzilla who price-matched Amazon. I bought a small wire harness that plugged into the aux plug behind the dashboard from TripageLED. He offers a lot of lighting products, and I think he owns an FZ09 (he's developed a lot of kits for FZs). I bought my Photon turn signals from him last year. Tripage LED There is a good review of LP270s here: PIAA LP270 Review LED Lights for Conspicuity and Visibility Bright, low power consumption... I used the PIAA mounting kit, which is just a pair of stainless steel screws with spacers to slide over them. They replace a pair of the fender screws. The wiring harness is a little overkill. I ran the relay under the seat, powered the lights directly off the battery. Then ran the wiring for the button to the left handlebar and the relay voltage to the extra aux power plug behind the dash. Handlebar switch Relay wire powered off the iginition The whole kit could easily have used 2' shorter wires and still worked. The relay is supposed to mounted vertically, so I wedged it next to the battery. I ran all the wires up under the gas tank close to the left side frame. I just eyeballed pointing the light. I need to take time to properly aim then and then I'll add a drop of loctite to each fender screw. From the pictures these seem to do what I want - add more light wider. Low beam only. All the bugs on the windscreen are from my rural commute. Low beam and fog lights aimed by eyeball only

PIAA LP270 fog lights, new EK chain with screw on master link, new Superlite sprockets in stock sizes, added extra 1/2" spacers to the upper screws on the windshield to try to move it more upright and away from me. Bought a T-lock so I can lock my quick release helmet to the bike when I run short errands. New chain and rear sprocket. I haven't cleaned up the master link screws. Spacers Fog lamp switch held with double sided tape for now over the blanks on the left switch gear

That's how it begins. A buddy bought a used DRZ400 for $3k or so for a little dual sporting. Then he upgraded it. Then he bought dirt bikes for his kids. Then a dual sport for his wife. Then bigger dirt bikes for his kids. Then a dirt bike for his wife. Then a toy hauler. Then a 3/4 ton pickup to tow the toy hauler. Then spent well north of $10k on a really nice KTM for himself. That DRZ probably cost $80k or more.

I like @donk's idea of a secured plywood sheet. I have an F150 with a 5 1/2' bed. The rear wheel sits in the gap just ahead of the tailgate, not on the tailgate itself. If you angled it slightly, you could do the same thing.

Reading this I thought of the old joke: Heaven is where... The police are British The cooks are Italian The lovers are French The mechanics are German And it's all organized by the Swiss Hell is where... The cooks are British The mechanics are French The lovers are Swiss The police are German And it's all organized by the Italians

@betoney answered one of your questions. Raising the forks = lowering the front end. Loosen all the steering fork pinch bolts CAREFULLY and slide the fork tubes up. Do it a couple of mm at a time. Do it equally both sides. The bike will turn faster.

That would probably speed up handling. If anyone has a complaint it's that the bike is unstable so I don't think most people would try it. Have you considered raising the forks. Even a couple mm has a surprising effect on turn in. I don't look hard, but are there decent 110 wide tires? 120, I think, is a more popular size.

Can't pull up a chart but looking at the numbers there is no pattern. You had a tank at 15 mpg followed by a tank at 50 mpg. That's weird and suggests an environmental problem not a bike problem. Do you always fuel up at the same station or is there a pattern where you fuel up? Maybe bad gas at a particular pump. How long does the bike sit between rides? There's no dates on your chart. Sort of half kidding, half not, you should do several multi-tank steady throttle rides (touring not SPORT touring) and see if the mileage settles down to a regular number. 1000 miles in a long weekend could be informative.

There was a former forum member (Lawrence of Arabia or something like that) who ran through entire tanks at B mode and noticed a drop in mileage compared to STD. How recent? About a month ago ALL of my vehicles' mileage dropped about 15%. At this time last year the same thing happened. Different gas stations, different brands. I'm assuming it was the switch to winter blend gas

+1 to @betoney. My battery voltage doesn't have to be very low at all to make it slow to start. Priming - as others have said. If I start with the red switch on or if I switch it before the Yamaha logo goes away you hear priming. If I wait until the logo goes away I never hear priming. OP is describing normal behavior.

Usual rule of thumb I've heard is anywhere from 16,000 km of hard use to 32,000 km of careful maintenance. The XT makes less than half the hp of the FJ using a 520 chain. So it's a little narrower than the FJ. When I was trying to figure out chain width, I saw people reporting 25,000 km or less on their XT chains. You might just take better care of your chains than most of us.