Chain recommendation

[Bill H]

Need new chain after 8500 mies ,,what's up with that ,the O rings are falling apart . and its been well maintained 

I know nothing about chains other than its stamped 525 on link

last dumb question ,,x ring or O ring ,,amount of links,,I count 59 so assuming my chain is 118 links ?

Does anyone know if I go up a tooth in the rear will the 118 still work ?

any recommendation on chain would be helpful,,I dont think I need anything fancy like gold ,,its a chain right 

Much appreciated thanks 

 

 

Edited March 2, 2022 by Bill H

[johnmark101]

Stock chain has a history of premature o-ring failure.  Get a D.I.D ZVM-X 525.  Might consider getting new sprockets as well.  

[Bill H]

22 minutes ago, johnmark101 said:

Stock chain has a history of premature o-ring failure.  Get a D.I.D ZVM-X 525.  Might consider getting new sprockets as well.  

yeah was thinking the same ,,,Thanks 

[Grumpy Goat]

Changing the chain means a change to the sprockets as well. They wear together so putting a new chain on old sprockets will hasten the wear of all 3 components as the surfaces are mismatched.

When time comes to change my chain, I will opt for good quality D.I.D. chain per the bike's spec, and probably go with stock Yamaha sprockets.

[knyte]

My o-rings were pretty much toasted when I bought the bike (used); the stock chains seem to fall apart quickly.  RK or D.I.D. are great.  Do yourself a favour and grab a rivet tool for the connecting link.  They're not expensive, and they're FAR safer than the clip connecting links.

O-rings are good enough for our bikes.  X-rings are nice, but probably a bit overkill for the majority of our riding conditions.  Seems to me the wiper action of the X would be better suited for off-road, but I suppose that's subjective.  In theory, the X ring has less contact surface with the chain plate(s), so there would be a bit less friction.

https://o-ring.info/en/downloads/material-datasheets/x-ring-vs-o-ring/

...and sprockets.

[PhotoAl]

Put a DID ZVM-X 525 on with OEM sprockets.  Rear might have been something else.  Chains were hard to get last summer.  What I got was the middle DID X-ring.  They make one that was more expensive.  Replaced OEM at 11,000 miles and currently at 18,000 miles.  DID looks very good - also aded a ScottOiler which has done a pretty good job of keeping the chain lubed - like it is just a little bit but that's what is needed.  Most of my miles are long trips and it is hard to lube it even night.

Be careful with the nuts for the rear sprocket - they are on there tight.  Use a 6 point socket and pay attention - keep the socket in line and don't let it tilt.  I got a bit overconfident and on the last nut with my 12 point socket the socket slipped messed the nut up a bit.  Bought a set of the cam type sockets and a set of 6 point sockets.  The cam socket got damaged nut off with no trouble at all!  I'm a believer in torquing to spec.  Don't think I used thread locker though.

Also recommend using a rivet master link.  I had to use a clip type and somewhere towards the end (I think) of my 6,400 mile trip the clip came off.  Bought a rivet type master link to replace it but haven't gotten it installed yet.  

OEM from sprocket has the rubber dampener which make it a bit quieter.  I would avoid aluminum rear sprockets as they wear too fast.

[Rick123]

50000km on my previous 2017 and my riding buddy got about the same on his 2019. Replaced my with gold and black D.I.D ZWM-X 525. New sprockets at the same time.

Edited March 3, 2022 by Rick123

[Grumpy Goat]

10 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

... also aded a ScottOiler which has done a pretty good job of keeping the chain lubed - like it is just a little bit but that's what is needed.  Most of my miles are long trips and it is hard to lube it even night.

I also ride long distance, although I tend to not pull in at night or to where I cannot drop some lube on the chain. Question though - how do you find the ScottOiler - I do not want oil slinging anywhere and so far fear of that has caused my hesitancy. These modern sealed chains don't need much oiling especially if riding principally on roads, and if the chain is maintained per manufacturer's specifications.

[Bill H]

13 hours ago, Grumpy Goat said:

Changing the chain means a change to the sprockets as well. They wear together so putting a new chain on old sprockets will hasten the wear of all 3 components as the surfaces are mismatched.

When time comes to change my chain, I will opt for good quality D.I.D. chain per the bike's spec, and probably go with stock Yamaha sprockets.

10-4 ,,,love the flag 

LGB

[Bill H]

12 hours ago, knyte said:

My o-rings were pretty much toasted when I bought the bike (used); the stock chains seem to fall apart quickly.  RK or D.I.D. are great.  Do yourself a favour and grab a rivet tool for the connecting link.  They're not expensive, and they're FAR safer than the clip connecting links.

O-rings are good enough for our bikes.  X-rings are nice, but probably a bit overkill for the majority of our riding conditions.  Seems to me the wiper action of the X would be better suited for off-road, but I suppose that's subjective.  In theory, the X ring has less contact surface with the chain plate(s), so there would be a bit less friction.

https://o-ring.info/en/downloads/material-datasheets/x-ring-vs-o-ring/

...and sprockets.

Dam good advice on rivet link ,,yeah not a fan of the clip

Thanks 

[PhotoAl]

ScottOiler is nice but somewhat fiddly.  Not as bad as some have said but took a while to get it set right.  Some riding when first installed just to test and then 6,400 mile trip.  First day seemed like not doing much so turned it up. Second day better so turned up more.  3rd day it was overruled and got on the rim and was streaking the side of the tire.  Turned it down a bit and wiped off rim.  4th day turned it down more and wiped off rim at the start.  After that may have turned it down one more time but it was not too bad.  Main problem was fling getting on rim.  By the end of the trip it I could go two days without wiping off rim and still not have any streaks on the tire.  Even on worst day didn't have a problem with it on the tread surface other than 3 maybe 4 tiny streaks that didn't go far.  The other day it dropped a big drop of oil on the tire which went on the sidewall then the surface.  It was maybe 3/4 inches of the tire diameter and one time did actually feel it in a hard left hander but no problems.  So yes you have to keep up with it and it can make a mess but I tend to keep it on the light side and mess isn't a problem.  Chain looks clean with just a hint of oil so it's doing the job it's intended to do.

 

EDIT:  I have the scorpion which drips on both sides of the rear sprocket.  More fiddly but works well.

Edited March 3, 2022 by PhotoAl

[KrustyKush]

Great info on the Scottoiler.  I've been thinking of getting one but I figure the time I spend hand oiling would just about equalize what I'd spend dicking with the oiler.  I went partway with Scott and have been using the blue Scott oil on my new OEM chain.  I hand oil drops on each link about every 75 to 100 miles.  I get a fair amount of fling and have to keep the rag going all the time.  With this much personal attention to each link I'm curious to see how long this new OEM (D.I.D.) chain lasts.

[Bill H]

15 minutes ago, KrustyKush said:

Great info on the Scottoiler.  I've been thinking of getting one but I figure the time I spend hand oiling would just about equalize what I'd spend dicking with the oiler.  I went partway with Scott and have been using the blue Scott oil on my new OEM chain.  I hand oil drops on each link about every 75 to 100 miles.  I get a fair amount of fling and have to keep the rag going all the time.  With this much personal attention to each link I'm curious to see how long this new OEM (D.I.D.) chain lasts.

Im with you on that ,,only takes a couple minutes to oil chain and I actually enjoy doing it ,,for longer trips I just bring a small bottle ,,

[betoney]

2 hours ago, KrustyKush said:

I hand oil drops on each link about every 75 to 100 miles.  I get a fair amount of fling and have to keep the rag going all the time.  With this much personal attention to each link I'm curious to see how long this new OEM (D.I.D.) chain lasts.

You are putting way too much work into it, spray it with Dupont chain saver and wipe off the excess every few hundred miles - NO MESS.  I keep a can in my side case while on trips, the end of day procedure at the hotel takes about 30-45 seconds each night. 

[2and3cylinders]

DID ZVM-X 520 with non-damped 16t front & 47t rear.  I have a 15 butstilluse the stock # of links.  LighTech clone chain adjusters...

I have a ScotOiler on my VTR1000F but just also use Dupont Chain Saver but I shake it well and spray it in a small squeeze bottle with a small spout and cap, then dribble it on , work it in with a tooth brush and wipe it off.  Much neater, faster and uses half what spraying it on does.  Also use Motul Chain Paste but replaced the cap with flip top off a tube of toothpaste and tooth brush it in and wipe.  I clean with Kerosene and that spiral brush thingy.