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{US} Tech Bulletin M2016-004 Cam Chain Tensioner Noise


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I just used an adjustable crescent wrench on that.. I have no idea whether or not the proper tension is on it but it's not making any weird noises so I guess that's good.

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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I thought you had to take the cover off to make sure the chain didn’t skip a tooth when you replaced the tensioner? It sounds much easier if all you do is swap the tensioners.

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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I thought you had to take the cover off to make sure the chain didn’t skip a tooth when you replaced the tensioner? It sounds much easier if all you do is swap the tensioners.
I installed the APE tensioner a few weeks ago. Before doing so, I read much of the mega-thread on the fz09 forum that discusses the installation in depth. The purposes of removing the cover are to get a feel for the tightness of the chain, and to put some tension on it before rotating the crankshaft.  
The guy who wrote the installation instruction did not initially remove the cover. Then he rotated the crankshaft after the tensioner was removed and the chain skipped a tooth. Therefore, he recommended that everyone else remove the cover and put some tension on the chain before rotating the crank. However, you don't have to rotate the crank so you can choose to leave the cover in place if you prefer. Then your feel for the tension on the chain will come indirectly through the tensioner and not directly from the chain. 
 
 

2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch

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Has anyone had this fixed at a dealer? My local dealer says they know about the bulletin but "theyve listened to so many of them and none have needed replaced.". Seems dumb, its a warranty job that can probably be done quicker than book time. I dont understand the opposition to it.
 
My bike is ticking on decel ('15 5k miles) and I suspect cct. Really dont want to buy an aftermarket manual tensioner.
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Has anyone had this fixed at a dealer? My local dealer says they know about the bulletin but "theyve listened to so many of them and none have needed replaced.". Seems dumb, its a warranty job that can probably be done quicker than book time. I dont understand the opposition to it.  
My bike is ticking on decel ('15 5k miles) and I suspect cct. Really dont want to buy an aftermarket manual tensioner.
 
Had mine done at my dealer and they gave me 0 trouble... less than a year later I started getting cam chain noise again. Put the APE manual tensioner in and now its quiet.
 
If you are suspecting cam chain tensioner issues, I would skip the TSB and put a manual tensioner on.
 

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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I dont have a mechanics stethoscope but using a long screwdriver... It certainly sounds like the ticking is cct.
 
My problem with manual tensioners is I purchased the extended warranty. I realize aftermarket parts have to be proven to cause a failure, but I'd prefer to remain oem for the warranty period at least.
 
I guess the next step is have the dealer listen to it. On the phone they said it's oil which has thinned. Change it and it Will go away. So I went to them and purchased yamalube and filter. So if it doesnt quit ticking they cant tell me it needs an oil change.
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Mango- I don’t know if your dealer has heard it in person yet, but what you’re describing sounds like a classic case to me.
 
If it’s a service writer listening, ask for an actual experienced Tech or the service manager to listen instead.
 
If they still don’t think it’s an issue - go to another dealer, or call Yamaha corporate and explain to them (nicely) that you feel there’s an issue and your dealership isn’t helping you out.
 
They might reach out to the dealership on your behalf and “suggest” to the dealer that they need to perform the repair and that the dealer will get reimbursed.
 
FYI- it’s not an easy job to “beat the clock on”. Most warranty work doesn’t pay very well and the bolts that hold the tensioner on have loctite on them and you can’t get even a stubby 5mm socket on it. Using a ball end is also a recipe for rounding out the bolt. The access to the bolts are quite challenging with the engine installed in the frame.
 
Further, certain years have to have a bolt replaced in the valve cover to increase oil flow to the tensioner cavity.
 
-Skip
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Noticed a ticking that seems to have developed on the right side the last couple day. Can only hear it at idle and very low speed, but I see I now have a recall for the CCT, so I guess I'll give that a shot. Bike is a 16 with 22k miles on it now. Maybe I should just have them do the whole 24k service at the same time...
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  • 2 years later...
On 4/22/2018 at 11:31 AM, duhs10 said:

@skippert or anyone with helpful advice...
 
I'm about to install the APE manual CCT. I've already had the TSB performed and it's starting to make noise again.
 
My question is.. the APE instructions say that if your tensioner is hydraulic that you must block off the oil feed or it could result in a low oil pressure condition. I know our tensioners aren't hydraulic but they do have an oil feed. Shold I be concerned with this when installing the APE? I had kit 1 installed that added the colar to the right rear engine cover bolt.

Did you find out about your oil question ?

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6 hours ago, Maytrix said:

Did you find out about your oil question ?

I never got an "answer" but I've had the APE tensioner installed for 3 years and have had 0 issues. Maybe one day I will get a new valve cover bolt and change it back to the original. 

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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6 hours ago, Maytrix said:

Did you find out about your oil question ?

IIRC the thread on the FZ09 forum mentioned it at one point but I don’t recall there being a consensus one what to do. I think somebody mentioned that the APE tensioner body has a design element that deals with the oil flow. 

“send APE an email for info” would be my recommendation. I still would NOT block ANY oil passage in an engine unless someone had first hand proven results on why that’s a good idea. Plus, a patch of RTV over a little pressurized oil-fed hole sure isn’t going to hold up IMHO. I can just picture stray lumps of silicone flying around an engine getting stuck...yikes. 

We don’t know exactly what that tensioner passage feeds AFTER the oil goes in there, which theoretically you could block and starve. If it just returns to the sump, well ok. But looking at the Oil Diagram and flow chart in the Service Manual will only tell you so much. If someone had a set of upper crankcase halves on the bench and disassembled then we could confirm for sure but even so....

proceed with caution on this one, there’s too much risk involved IMO. 

-Skip

Edited by skipperT
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