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{US} Tech Bulletin M2016-004 Cam Chain Tensioner Noise


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Hi All, 
From what I've read it seems like there have been a few different version upgrades on the CCT. Does anyone know what version we are on now and has it fixed the problem? I seem to recall reading that the second version didn't really fix the issue.
 
Mine is within the VIN range impacted but I haven't noticed any clatter. It has a very pronounced engine whine when cold but I guess that's normal?
 
Since mine isn't making any noise I'm content to wait for another "new version" if the latest hasn't resolved it.
 
Thanks!
 
That 'very pronounced engine whine' may well be an over-tight chain.   Common wisdom here is to ignore the factory spec, which is far too tight, and give about 25-30mm (a touch over an inch) of drive chain slack as pictured on page 7-23 of the Owner's Manual.   It gives an immediate and considerable reduction in 'whine'.    And wear decent ear-plugs!

Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia.   

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  • 1 month later...
@hallard85 I've been getting some noise lately too. Had the CCT replaced about 4 months ago. I think I might do the same thing.

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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No, your number is in the range as listed by you. It’s the last 6 that put it “in range”
 
As important is the RN37E()B in your VIN. It can put it in or out of range. For example, a RN37F()C would NOT be in range. Even if the last 6 numbers were 002102.
 
-Skip
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Thanks Skip! Your explanation made it simpler to understand. Now to approach the dealer, since he hasn't been proactive in telling me the issue exists, it looks like I'll have to take to proof to him and I'll do it before winter approaches!
 
 
 
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  • 2 weeks later...
So I had the TSB service done at the end of last year right before I put the bike into storage. 4500 miles and 7 months later the cam chain has started rattling again. It started about 3 weeks ago and at first I thought it was an effect of the cold as it's been getting down to the 40°s(F) overnight and it's been around 50°F in the morning when I start up. However, today it was 72°F at noon and when I started it to go out for lunch it was rattling like crazy. For now it's going away when the engine warms up, but it's persisting longer and longer each time I ride.
 
 
I still have my APE manual tensioner (which I bought before the TSB replacement)...may have to put that back in.
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  • 5 months later...
@skippert or anyone with helpful advice...
 
I'm about to install the APE manual CCT. I've already had the TSB performed and it's starting to make noise again.
 
My question is.. the APE instructions say that if your tensioner is hydraulic that you must block off the oil feed or it could result in a low oil pressure condition. I know our tensioners aren't hydraulic but they do have an oil feed. Shold I be concerned with this when installing the APE? I had kit 1 installed that added the colar to the right rear engine cover bolt.

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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@piotrek... one more for you. When I pulled the "CP3" cover... there was no gasket. Should there have been?

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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@piotrek ... one more for you. When I pulled the "CP3" cover... there was no gasket. Should there have been?
I installed the tensioner without removing that cover... but I recall from one FZ-09 forum post that yes, there was a gasket. You sure it's not just stuck/caked on?
 
It looks like there may have been a liquid gasket... don't know what to call it, but the kind you squirt out of a tube to seal it. Whatever it was was extemely minimal never had any leaking so if it starts leaking now.. I will go get a gasket. Takes 2 minutes to pull that cover
 

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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The gasket may have a “silvery” look to it.
Not like the old paper gaskets.
 
Regarding oiling: no idea on that one. There are 2 different procedures that Yamaha specifies depending on when your engine was produced. Depending on the VIN, a bolt and washer get changed in the valve cover to supply the tensioner with more oil pressure. (Easily visible from the RH side of the frame if it’s been changed.)
 
If your engine has the updated bolt (RH rear IIRC) you could switch it back to the stock bolt and effectively reduce the increased oil feed going to the tensioner cavity to what it was originally.
 
Personally, unless someone here knows for sure - I’d call/email APE to double check. I don’t know that this is something I would feel comfortable guessing about.
 
HTH,
Skip
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I installed the tensioner without removing that cover... but I recall from one FZ-09 forum post that yes, there was a gasket. You sure it's not just stuck/caked on?
It looks like there may have been a liquid gasket... don't know what to call it, but the kind you squirt out of a tube to seal it. Whatever it was was extemely minimal never had any leaking so if it starts leaking now.. I will go get a gasket. Takes 2 minutes to pull that cover
 
Usually the liquid sealant is a bit of extra coverage for the area where the crankcase halves join.
 
You can use Yamahabond 4, or threebond, or hondabond HT.
 
Some of the newer Yamaha gaskets have this slight bit of adhesive already on the new gasket in the spot that it is supposed to be at.
 
-S
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Thanks @piotrek and @skippert... u found the gasket lol.. stayed on the case so not going to mess with it. I think I will order a stock bolt as you suggested and replace it to reduce oil flow. About to button this project up assuming I can find a allen key that I can fit between the frame and tensioner to adjust it...

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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