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FJR bags on FJ


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  • 2 months later...
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I managed to score a pair of used FJR bags recently. I was very close to pulling the trigger on the Shad SH-36 bags when I noticed the FJR bags listed on the local classifieds for $100. One side is in great condition but the other side has either been dropped or crashed. One upper mount tabs is cracked at its base, and the lower tab that sticks out when the handle is pressed down is broken. The paint on the lid is also chipped and peeling. The seller assured me that the lid is not cracked and both bags are still watertight. Well, one working bag and a good lid are worth way more than $100, so I jumped on them right away.
 
I took them home and discovered that the crashed bag wasn't closing properly. Two of its metal latches are stuck and don't move when I move the latch lever. I decided not to attempt to repair it and ordered the case bottom. I also plan to take the lids to a body shop to strip off the old paint, re-prep the surface and repaint them to match my matte grey FJ. I also discovered that the dealer didn't use Locktite on the lock screws! ;-|  One lock was missing a screw, and the remaining three are loose. Thankfully they are all Philips screws and not the pesky Torx security screws.
 
I'm now waiting for the lower bag mounts to ship. I couldn't find a dealer that has the case bottom in stock, so I'll have to wait for it to ship from a European dealer.
 
FJR bags - $100
Lower bag mounts - $88 shipped from BikeBandit
Case bottom - $280 shipped
Painting - $100-$150 (my estimate)
Screws, rivets, washers, spacers... - $20 (maybe less)
Total $600-$650
 
The Shad bags would've cost the same with the mounts, so I think I got a good deal.
 
Does anyone have experience with completely stripping the old paint off the FJR bag lids? What paint stripper did you use to not melt the plastic lids?
 
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Does anyone have experience with completely stripping the old paint off the FJR bag lids? What paint stripped did you use to not melt the plastic lids?

Usually bags run around $250-400 to have prep'd & painted.  I have painted saddlebags and top boxes with great success.  Usually in the summer when it is hot and sunny outside. 
I recommend that you try painting them yourself.  Paint will run you $45-80 and you can get in shaker cans.  Get extra nozzels.  You do not need to remove the old paint from the bags.  Sand the covers with a 200-220 grit to provide a good rough surface.  Spray with a automotive primer filler, 2 times.  Sand with 300-400 grit.  Paint the boxes the color you want.  Here is the trick, do not try to cover in one coat, do light coats and do three coats.  Remember, you will cover in three coats.  Wait 10 minutes between coats.  Follow that within  2-3 coats of clear coat immediately allowing 10-15 minutes between each of those.  Let dry in warm room or in the sun.  Don't worry about imperfections because nobody else will even notice.  If you use a matt finish clear coat.  Test it first.  You might want to have a gloss clear handy or to use on the first and second coat of clear.   Apply a light coat of matt for the final.  Do some testing on this.  Do some research and it won't be that hard.  Use a grease, wax remover after sanding.  Just remember, never start the spray aimed at the bag cover, aim away and bring the spay across the bag and stop after you pass the bag.  Only direct the spray on spots with quick press/release, repeats or you will get runs.  I would walk around the bag applying paint at the edges first, then spray the top, followed by doing the edges again lightly thereby completing one coat.  You want to get as much paint on without runs.  By applying coats in 10 min intervals the paint will not be totally dry but will be dry to touch and when the next coat is applied, it will soften and meld together.  Good luck with what ever you do.
 

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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Guest autobiker
 

Usually bags run around $250-400 to have prep'd & painted.  I have painted saddlebags and top boxes with great success.  Usually in the summer when it is hot and sunny outside. 
I recommend that you try painting them yourself.  Paint will run you $45-80 and you can get in shaker cans.  Get extra nozzels.  You do not need to remove the old paint from the bags.  Sand the covers with a 200-220 grit to provide a good rough surface.  Spray with a automotive primer filler, 2 times.  Sand with 300-400 grit.  Paint the boxes the color you want.  Here is the trick, do not try to cover in one coat, do light coats and do three coats.  Remember, you will cover in three coats.  Wait 10 minutes between coats.  Follow that within  2-3 coats of clear coat immediately allowing 10-15 minutes between each of those.  Let dry in warm room or in the sun.  Don't worry about imperfections because nobody else will even notice.  If you use a matt finish clear coat.  Test it first.  You might want to have a gloss clear handy or to use on the first and second coat of clear.   Apply a light coat of matt for the final.  Do some testing on this.  Do some research and it won't be that hard.  Use a grease, wax remover after sanding.  Just remember, never start the spray aimed at the bag cover, aim away and bring the spay across the bag and stop after you pass the bag.  Only direct the spray on spots with quick press/release, repeats or you will get runs.  I would walk around the bag applying paint at the edges first, then spray the top, followed by doing the edges again lightly thereby completing one coat.  You want to get as much paint on without runs.  By applying coats in 10 min intervals the paint will not be totally dry but will be dry to touch and when the next coat is applied, it will soften and meld together.  Good luck with what ever you do.

The existing paint on the bags is most probably not OEM. It's not adhering to the underlying surface very well, and is peeling off like onion skin at multiple places. I'm not sure if it's a good idea to paint over it. :-/ I considered faux-CF vinyl wrapping as well, but I've seen others done it on this forum and they weren't really satisfied with the results. So I guess painting is the way to go.
 
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Premium Member
Being a lazy... or is that smart guy I purchased my FJ with color matching FJR bags. I can't show you yet as I've not posted enough times to be allowed to post photos yet!

Brick
2015 Yamaha FJ-09 "Red Molly"
2014 Yamaha Super Tenere' ES
1999 Suzuki SV650

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Picked up two 2008 FJR saddlebags last week and put on the FJ.  Color doesn't match but is close and almost un-noticable when looking at the color of the side panels and front fender.  Matt vs. Gloss.  I will not be painting these (and you know how much I like designing and painting my bags).  
 
 
4904197.jpg
 
 

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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Redfjniner I see you have an aftermarket seat. If I could ask which one is that and how many miles have you got on it and do you like it?
 

Brick
2015 Yamaha FJ-09 "Red Molly"
2014 Yamaha Super Tenere' ES
1999 Suzuki SV650

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Guest autobiker
Picked up two 2008 FJR saddlebags last week and put on the FJ.  Color doesn't match but is close and almost un-noticable when looking at the color of the side panels and front fender.  Matt vs. Gloss.  I will not be painting these (and you know how much I like designing and painting my bags).   

You'll get around to painting them eventually... (rofl)
 
I just got back from vacation with the lady and finally got some time to install the lower mounts. Took me less than an hour. I used big nylon spacers and longer M8 bolts to move the top mounts out 1/2". The bags went on and off easily, and the bike looks great with them on - if I can overlook the hideous color mismatch. I can't believe I waited so long to get the FJR bags and mounts!
 
I'm gonna get the bags painted this week and fix the broken right bag with the part I shipped in from Europe.
 
@clint One question since you've done it before: I didn't manage to find 5/32" x 1/4" blind rivets at the store, but I've got some 5/32" x 3/8" ones around. Will these slightly longer rivets work on the lid?
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@clint One question since you've done it before: I didn't manage to find 5/32" x 1/4" blind rivets at the store, but I've got some 5/32" x 3/8" ones around. Will these slightly longer rivets work on the lid?
 
They might work, but I'm just not sure. I'm thinking they will bottom out, but you'll absolutely know when you insert them.
 
The 1/4 ones should be available at [/url]Amazon.
 
...or if you'd like I can drop a few in the mail to you tomorrow!
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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