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fried valve at 56,000 miles


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2015 FJ-09, all scheduled maintenance done by the book and on time.  All valves showing serious wear with one completely toast.  Cost of repairs exceeds value of bike.

Needless to say I am massively disappointed, I expected much more considering the meticulous maintenance (all done by a dealer).   I'm not looking for sympathy, just want to moan and groan and where better to do it.  

Now planning my next move.  I shouldn't write off Yamaha but I feel betrayed.  WIll probably buy used, considering V-Strom 650 or 1000, or Versys 1000, maybe Bandit 1250s or R1200RT.  I will put some bits & pieces from the bike up for sale here. 

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@Salish900 I agree something isn't right.  As far as I know valve inspections were done correctly, I didn't do the work but I've done business with the dealer since buying the bike there in 2016 and I don't think they have screwed me.  

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It's not necessary for them to screw you or have ill intent. But humans make mistakes, especially in the high pressure and time limited world of dealerships. Valves burn when they are too tight, as they stay open as part of the combustion cycle and get too hot. 

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1 hour ago, rustyshackles said:

2015 FJ-09, all scheduled maintenance done by the book and on time.  All valves showing serious wear with one completely toast.  Cost of repairs exceeds value of bike.

Now planning my next move.  I shouldn't write off Yamaha but I feel betrayed.

Sorry to hear of this issue happening to your bike.  Did you find this during a routine valve inspection or was there some other symptom to make you open up the motor?

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Sorry to see this and I'm disappointed. Looks like Vinnies valve problem that he said Yamaha knows about. I've also seen a few Fz-09's on YouTube with the problem. 

Reminds me of the valve guide problem Yamaha had with the FJR1300's. Don't know if they ever made right with those.

You mind answering a few questions?  after market pipe?  ECU tune?  How often and when valves checked, how far were the exhausts tight? Anything else you can add.

Others here have big mileage, but there are a lot of variables involved.

Again sorry.

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The symptoms, low RPM lugging and chugging, surfaced in October.  MPG also plummeted.   Full Akropovich exhaust, ECU tune was done 3+ years ago.  Valves were checked at 26k and I think in spec but I need to find the paperwork.  

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@rustyshackles - Well, that really sucks.  56K isn’t exactly low mileage, but there are lots of others with many more miles, and that’s a seriously wounded valve.  I’m really sorry to see that...  

It’s obviously up to you on how to proceed, but I would think a used FJ/FZ motor would be worth looking into, even if only to get the bike back operational to sell.   It seems like $1,000 - $1,500 will get you a complete turnkey motor if you’re willing to look around a bit.  

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It's scary. I've had 13 V Stroms before I got my 2017 FJ-09 2 months ago (with just over 7000 km on it). I rode it for another 5000 km  in 6 weeks and so far so good but reading stories like this make me wonder if I made the right choice. I never had single issue with Suzuki and here - it is not the first time I'm reading about tight (or worn out) exhaust valves. Some of them out of spects at 15000-20000 km. Shouldn't Yamaha do something about it since they recommend first valve check at 42 or 45000 km? 

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We'll probably never know the exact cause but I don't trust dealers to do anything.  Even with a recall I'll get parts myself depending on what it is and do the work.  In the past I've found missing or loose bolts and even though I may not be an expert I have a vested interested in doing the work correctly and have the time to double or triple check everything.

I wouldn't personally put this on the bike or engine, I'd put it on the dealership that should have done an adjustment but were too lazy.  I wouldn't even trust the spec THEY give you because if it's .002 out of spec and they say it didn't need an adjustment, they're going to give you and in-spec number to CYA...

A replacement engine seems like the best option.  But, if you like the bike then keep it... also, do the valve check yourself on the replacement.. and moving forward.

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Lots of complete cylinder heads on ebay.

I'd keep the engine, and just swap in a replacement cylinder head. Not too expensive, not too complex.

I've had loads of yams, but always done the valves myself and not had issues. I think, as said above, it can be human error and it's maybe been done wrong. It needs an organised mind, a technician under pressure could balls it up.

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