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9 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 FYI  You can access the spark plugs without removing any bodywork or the fuel tank and air Box

 By removing the screws on either side of the top of the radiator and then tipping forward the radiator AFTER putting a towel on the Fender and disconnecting the Coolant overflow hoses.  the spark plugs are then readily accessible

Post of the week, right here. Excellent tip!!

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On 2/13/2021 at 10:22 AM, duhs10 said:

I think you are correct in that eye-balling with the motion pro tool is good enough. 

However if you do have a caliper. The measurement is very easy and about takes the same amount of time as attaching the motion pro tool to the sprocket (probably even less time actually).

I'm here, personally.  I've got the motion pro tool, and like it, but as I've got a couple cheap digital calipers (they're like $20cdn) I've switched over to just measuring from block to end of swingarm.  

Like others here, I'm MUCH pickier about wheel alignment than chain slack.  I don't know why that is, but it is.  So long as my chain isn't significantly loose (and I never set it too tight + it doesn't tighten on it's own) I just don't care.  I change my tires twice a year at a minimum, so the chain gets reset then, and of course a couple times after a new chain is installed.

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10 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 FYI  You can access the spark plugs without removing any bodywork or the fuel tank and air Box

 By removing the screws on either side of the top of the radiator and then tipping forward the radiator AFTER putting a towel on the Fender and disconnecting the Coolant overflow hoses.  the spark plugs are then readily accessible

Wait, what?!  Oh my god, this is wonderful.  Wonderful.  I can't even.

I mean, removing the bodywork isn't really a big deal - after you do it a couple times it becomes pretty routine - but it's a bunch of silly extra work that just makes it more of a pain in the ass.  I've got a new set of plugs that have been on my workbench pending installation for like 3 months now.  Once things warm up a bit so it's not -30 in my garage, I'm totally doing this.  

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Good to know that you don't have to take the  tank off.  Thanks so much for that tip.  Instead of putting a towel on the fender, it's  pretty easy to take off and it would gain you another  inch or so of room.  I  love this  forum.

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BTW, I use a vacuum tool to purge, flush and fill all my vehicle cooling systems.  It's faster, much neater and cleaner, gets almost every last drop out, and introduces the fresh coolant direct from the bottle without air bubbles.  The Uview unit has gone up a bit in price but the all brass model is beautifully made so you get what you pay for over their plastic version and cheaper knockoffs.  Try it, you'll LIKE it!  I love mine.

https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=asc_df_B0002SRH5G/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413735745518&psc=1

 

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2 hours ago, fjray said:

Good to know that you don't have to take the  tank off.  Thanks so much for that tip.  Instead of putting a towel on the fender, it's  pretty easy to take off and it would gain you another  inch or so of room.  I  love this  forum.

Taking the fender off to me is is a unnecessary PITA, as the radiator hoses don't let the rad tip much further forward anyway but your welcome to try and report back on whether it helped much.  I find the fender brake hose retention clips are buggy and the top center one easily pops out of the fender itself.  Instead of replacing a clip, I cut a very narrow strip of electrical tape and wrap it around the clip "body" but under the locking tabs, just enough wraps so the barbs still pass through the fender but spread out and lock the clip firmly.

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Cool. I didn't know that the rad hoses were going to stop further openings.  I might just go in under the tank anyway to reoil the K and N.

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On 2/16/2021 at 12:11 PM, fjray said:

Cool. I didn't know that the rad hoses were going to stop further openings.  I might just go in under the tank anyway to reoil the K and N.

If you flush & fill the coolant at the same time and don't use a vacuum tool, you can remove the radiator altogether and have maximum access!

It still would probably be faster than pulling all the bodywork, tank, air box, etc..

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11 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

If you flush & fill the coolant at the same time and don't use a vacuum tool, you can remove the radiator altogether and have maximum access!

It still would probably be faster than pulling all the bodywork, tank, air box, etc..

But I couldn't  get to the  air filter  that way.  Good to know  though. 

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