Crap.

[Buggy Nate]

On 2/11/2021 at 3:11 PM, Toddtr said:

Condescending? Because I say some shouldn’t work on their own bikes? If you over torque or improperly place bolts, screws or nuts it’s not Yamahas fault when they fail, break or strip. Guess now saying everyone isn’t a mechanic means I’m an ass, a condescending ass to be exact 

To be fair this as Betoney has said is a very common problem and if you look carefully above happens when undoing the axle nut from the over torqued Yamaha spec and and underrated axle block that does not capture enough of the axle to avoid deformation.

I am a qualified mechanic of over 20 years and know a crappy design when I see one.

Edited February 14, 2021 by Buggy Nate

[Heli ATP]

8 hours ago, betoney said:

So why is your response to any topic always condescending? 

Yamaha makes a soft aluminum block to mate up to the steel axle and its the owners fault due to lack of mechanical skills when it deforms under pressure ... 🤷‍♀️ 

If you had taken a second to ask instead of jumping at the opportunity to treat someone like an ass you could have found that the issue isn't just with the FJ/Tracer, many other riders have had the same issue on the FZ/MT and XSR forums as well. 

Well said @betoney  I was looking for the 👎 on that one.

Maybe the moderators should consider adding the thumbs down option next to the thumbs up.

[BBB]

2 minutes ago, Heli ATP said:

Maybe the moderators should consider adding the thumbs down option next to the thumbs up.

This forum is for enthusiasts of the bike we own. It’s a refuge from social media and so the feedback emojis are generally to show appreciation rather than negative judgements.

@Toddtr has a voice on the forum too. As long as he doesn’t exceed the posting guidelines, he can be abrasive if he so chooses. If you don’t like the comments someone posts, my best advice, like in life, is to ignore it rather than responding and feeding the fire. Healthy argument amongst adults is useful though.

Of course, if you think a post is inappropriate then report it and the moderators will look at it.

[fddriver2]

14 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Are they the Italian made, 'million dollar', LighTech adjusters?  Or knock offs?

Hope they are the knock offs or I'm getting worried.😮

They are "knock offs"  Just ordered the real ones from Revzilla. It's only money.... 🤷‍♂️

[peteinpa]

For the record the left side block has been updated by Yamaha so it's taller and engages the whole height of the axle.

The real problem is the 108 lb.ft. spec. for the axle nut. The next time you  try to remove that nut it has galled itself to the axle and then it destroys that left block, axle, and nut.

A slight coating of grease on the axle threads then only tourqe to 75 lb. ft. and all the OEM hardware will out last the bike.

Do a search on larger, more powerful Hondas and none have an axle nut spec. near as high.

[keithu]

12 hours ago, Toddtr said:

Condescending? Because I say some shouldn’t work on their own bikes? If you over torque or improperly place bolts, screws or nuts it’s not Yamahas fault when they fail, break or strip. Guess now saying everyone isn’t a mechanic means I’m an ass, a condescending ass to be exact 

I try to avoid arguments on the Internet these days, but you are really talking out of your ass on this one. I've been a mechanic on F/A-18s, I am currently a technician on multi-million dollar industrial printers, and I've done maintenance and major repairs on countless cars and motorcycles over the last 35 years. This exact issue happened to me on my FJ-09.

If I made any mistake it was in following Yamaha's torque spec of 108 ft/lbs on the rear axle nut. I know many people believe that Yamaha's spec is ridiculously high, but due to my background in aviation maintenance I am always inclined to follow the manufacturer's spec. This is a pretty clear case of Yamaha providing a poor-quality part and/or giving bad info in their technical specs. 

[Lone Wolf]

I would describe myself as Curious. And I consider Curiosity a positive attribute.

I got my motorcycle license in 1972, and had been riding 3 years before that. I am 65.

I think anyone reading this has a passion for motorcycles - and for me it is a curiosity about something I may not know. Something I can use to bring my skills to a higher level, as a rider or mechanic as I do all maintenance myself including tire changes, and complete engine rebuilds. Yet I have a strong conviction that there are things I don't know.

16 hours ago, Toddtr said:

Condescending? Because I say some shouldn’t work on their own bikes? If you over torque or improperly place bolts, screws or nuts it’s not Yamahas fault when they fail, break or strip. Guess now saying everyone isn’t a mechanic means I’m an ass, a condescending ass to be exact 

Snarky. One word sums it up. Snarky.

Unfortunately this person will not benefit from pearls of wisdom hidden here and there, due to lack of curiosity.

Vintage motorcycles have an exposed hex head on one side of an axel, and a nut on the other that may have been overtightened by Godzilla at the factory, or prior owner. On older bikes you can put a 6 point socket on the hex head, a cheater bar with 6 point socket on the nut, and remove it without incident.

What we are talking about here are CAPTIVE designs where aluminum shoulders up against one face of the nut. That aluminum in the photo was not as thick as the new design. With a captive design, the ability to put a socket on is gone.

The FZ07 forum has a large thread about these getting demolished when axel nuts are removed for the first time on fairly new bikes when getting first tire change. You assume the owner over torqued it, but when you assume things...

Edited February 11, 2021 by Lone Wolf

[Toddtr]

1 hour ago, keithu said:

I try to avoid arguments on the Internet these days, but you are really talking out of your ass on this one. I've been a mechanic on F/A-18s, I am currently a technician on multi-million dollar industrial printers, and I've done maintenance and major repairs on countless cars and motorcycles over the last 35 years. This exact issue happened to me on my FJ-09.

If I made any mistake it was in following Yamaha's torque spec of 108 ft/lbs on the rear axle nut. I know many people believe that Yamaha's spec is ridiculously high, but due to my background in aviation maintenance I am always inclined to follow the manufacturer's spec. This is a pretty clear case of Yamaha providing a poor-quality part and/or giving bad info in their technical specs. 

Scary thought knowing that you have all that wisdom but still failed at not destroying something that others don’t. Now I know I’m a better wrench than an F/A 18 mechanic and a printer technician, wait till I tell my mom. As soon as I finish these Chips and salsa and this video game she’s going to hear how great I am. 

Edited February 11, 2021 by Toddtr

[Toddtr]

57 minutes ago, Lone Wolf said:

I would describe myself as Curious. And I consider Curiosity a positive attribute.

I got my motorcycle license in 1972, and had been riding 3 years before that. I am 65.

I think anyone reading this has a passion for motorcycles - and for me it is a curiosity about something I may not know. Something I can use to bring my skills to a higher level, as a rider or mechanic as I do all maintenance myself including tire changes, and complete engine rebuilds. Yet I have a strong conviction that there are things I don't know.

Snarky. One word sums it up. Snarky.

Unfortunately this person will not benefit from pearls of wisdom hidden here and there, due to lack of curiosity.

Vintage motorcycles have an exposed hex head on one side of an axel, and a nut on the other that may have been overtightened by Godzilla at the factory, or prior owner. On older bikes you can put a 6 point socket on the hex head, a cheater bar with 6 point socket on the nut, and remove it without incident.

What we are talking about here are CAPTIVE designs where aluminum shoulders up against one 6 face of the nut. That aluminum in the photo was not as thick as the new design. With a captive design, the ability to put a socket on is gone.

The FZ07 forum has a large thread about these getting demolished when axel nuts are removed for the first time on fairly new bikes when getting first tire change. You assume the owner over torqued it, but when you assume things...

Why can’t people just admit they messed up instead of saying it’s an inferior design? Everyone makes mistakes and obviously this setup works for many who pay attention when they are torquing the nut. It’s not fool proof and nothing is.....the picture is worth a thousand words. He/she didn’t check that it was seated correctly before tightening, now you have a flaw caused only by Yamaha. It’s never the person doing the work 

[Lone Wolf]

4 minutes ago, Toddtr said:

obviously this setup works for many...

You are correct. It is not a 100% failure rate. 

[Your_Boy_Yuriy]

Interesting thread here.

Anyways, what would be a good aftermarket replacement when the OEM part fails? 

7 hours ago, fddriver2 said:

They are "knock offs"  Just ordered the real ones from Revzilla. It's only money.... 🤷‍♂️

I guess just buy off of a reputable supplier. lol

 

[duhs10]

56 minutes ago, Your_Boy_Yuriy said:

Interesting thread here.

Anyways, what would be a good aftermarket replacement when the OEM part fails? 

I guess just buy off of a reputable supplier. lol

 

I have a set of Gilles Tooling axle block / adjusters. Really nice quality.... and they agree $$$$

[keithu]

1 hour ago, Your_Boy_Yuriy said:

Interesting thread here.

Anyways, what would be a good aftermarket replacement when the OEM part fails? 

I guess just buy off of a reputable supplier. lol

 

Another recommendation for the Gilles Tooling adjusters. They are simple and high quality. The Gilles adjuster is cheaper than the Lightech adjuster (which I believe is what the OP has) and not prone to the same failure since there is no nut on the end to vibrate loose. 

I ordered mine from Belissimoto in Las Vegas. 

[texscottyd]

24 minutes ago, keithu said:

Another recommendation for the Gilles Tooling adjusters. They are simple and high quality.

And yet another Gilles Tooling recommendation from me...  Beautifully made, function perfectly, and more subtle than the LightTech adjusters.    

Edited February 11, 2021 by texscottyd

[chitown]

+1 on the Gilles. 

My oem block wasn't as bad as some of the pictures but was showing more deforming than it should have after a few years.