betoney

It sounds like you answered your own question, unless you are looking for something more specific? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Its personal preference of course but I use a small fly screen year around on my FJ. I cant stand helmet buffeting -wind turbulence that bobbles your helmet around like a rag doll- but I don't mind wind flow and some wind noise as I always use ear plugs and in winter I have warm clothing. I don't mind wind flow hitting my chest or shoulders. Just know that the screen size and shape is the source of buffeting, if you take the screen off or ride a naked bike you wont get helmet buffeting, just smooth wind. Its a matter of getting a screen size and shape that moves the air up or around to where its acceptable to YOU.

I believe that they all show both pressure in bar or psi and temperature in C or F. I noticed the same observation with different tire brands temps and psi difference. I swap my TPMS between my FJ and VFR1200X which is heavier and has adventure size rims with a narrower 150 profile rear. Due to size availability, I use Pirelli Angel GT tires on the VFR and Bridgestone T32 or S22 on my FJ, both set to the same cold pressure. Yhe temperature and pressure rises higher and quicker on the VFR though I'm not sure if its the heavier bike with narrower rim or the tire brand that causes the difference?

No leaks noticed in 10’s of thousands of miles.

Suspension and ECU are the big issues with the 2015, once those are done any other mod would just be creature comforts like cruise control, heated grips or slipper clutch?

I have used the Sykik TPM for a few years with zero issues. The display is rechargeable via USB and the sensor batteries last a long time, they have only needed to be replaced once. Monitor with 2 wheel sensors Monitor with 3 wheel sensors

I think this could be the solution, anything could affect the screen clearance, bars rotated forward a bit, bar risers in the forward position, aftermarket up and back bar risers, aftermarket hand guards or hand guard position.

Is this something that you could use a washer or two as spacers or can a millimeter be trimmed off the screen with a Dremel tool?

Too funny... In all seriousness, like many members on here we get a limited "riding season" due to weather and a lot of our mountain passes are closed most of the year due to snow. When given the opportunity, I kind of go hog-wild once the weather permits. I start planning routes and budgeting around November for the following summer. I've already booked vacation days from work for next summer. My philosophy is "Each years riding season only happens once and then its gone forever, make the most of it".

Last month's trip was on the FJ so this month's trip was on the VFR. This trip was originally planned for right after Memorial Day but the forecast showed lots of thunderstorms throughout the route for the entire duration of the trip, so it got postponed until now. The weather was manageable when riding at higher elevations (a lot of the time I was at least 6,000' ASL and as high as 9,000' at Mt Rose Summit) but the lower elevations were HOT, triple digits on many occasions with typical summer traffic and road construction. I will definitely plan earlier in the year next time. Google Maps showing the California and Nevada portion of the route. https://goo.gl/maps/6mRpNweVXRJrWeLp6 Overall 2,112 miles over 4.5 days with a fuel average of 42mpg. Mt Hood Mt Shasta Mt Rose highway overlooking Lake Tahoe American River near Auburn, Ca Carson Pass Caples Lake, Carson Pass Mt Hood shortly after sun rise

I just rode that area today. The road construction is still going strong all over. It’s an inconvenience but every time I visit California on a road trip the roads are in overall phenomenal condition so to me, it’s a small price to pay.

I know nothing of the shocks you mentioned but from the 2 sentences you wrote, a good quality shock set up for you is worth it’s weight in gold, regardless of price. Nobody wants to spend a grand in a shock but once you do, your riding experience will forever be changed. Suspension (which is something I budget for on EVERY bike I own) is something I never regret spending money on. It makes the ride better in every way.

I don’t believe that is the case. There is no way the ECU would suddenly turn faulty by removing the wheels.

I am assuming you removed both front and rear wheel sensor prior to removing the wheels. Make sure they are fully seated flat and not cocked a few millimeters. It might be a good idea to fully remove them, it just takes a second and then clean and inspect them for damage before re-seating them.

Oh well, live and learn. It's not the first time Ive taken a chance and wasted money. For any future bike I may buy, a custom built seat will be the ONLY option for me.

I had the same experience, they have a "support center" and claim that they can help if you aren't satisfied with the seat within a specific time period after purchase. I tried contacting them, filling out the info and submitting it to support but they never responded, straight up ignored my correspondence.

I'm leaving for a trip to California in a few days so I will be able to give it a few thousand miles to break-in. I did the same thing years ago on my FJ, procrastinated until right before leaving on a road trip before getting a seat built and then left on the trip 2-3 days later... 🙄

FWIW, MOTOBOB's review:

I have never removed that part. I have 2 different rear rims so that I can quickly swap for the ride I'm going on, either sport or touring. I swap the sprocket carrier and rubber dampers between rims frequently but have never removed any other part.

After suffering with a Corbin seat on my VFR1200X for over a year -(expensive, uncomfortable and HEAVY), I decided to get a proper seat made at a local motorcycle seat shop https://www.richscustomseats.com/ Rich's seats have been discussed here before and is fairly well known to Northwest riders, I had one built for my FJ and have put about 70k miles on the seat. The unique thing about a custom seat is it is done in person, it is measured and shaped with you sitting on the bike and you take it for a test ride (or 2 or 3) and they re-shape and tweak it to make sure it is perfect before they build you a personalized custom cover. Not only is it hand built specifically for YOU but it is a lot cheaper than a Corbin, the Corbin was about $600 + shipping and this custom seat was $475 + tax. The Corbin is built well and looks nice but feels like sitting on a bag of cement and weighs about the same. It took me about an hour and a half to get there this morning but I took the long way back home, about 3 hours.

Don’t be put off by a higher mileage bike as long as it has been properly maintained. I’m close to 77,000 miles on mine and wouldn’t think twice about leaving on a road trip tomorrow.

If anyone ever tells you that they drive 100% focused, 100% of every mile they travel, feel free to call them a LIAR, it isn't going to happen, they are human. You are going to get distracted and look out the window or your mind will wander as you travel a long lonely highway, I'm not talking about looking at a cell phone or texting while driving but simple human motor functions. The only thing that would be 100% focused 100% of every mile driven would be a machine or a computer -like maybe the radar monitoring the ACC? 🤷🏻‍♂️

I also wish there was a "less-premium" version offered. Just like the Kawasaki Versys 1000, the Tracer is offered in 3 versions or trim levels in Europe, at least in North America we only get the top spec models -$$$. I also don't need ACC and am still on the fence about semi-active suspension as well, my "bare bones" original 2015 model performs pretty damn good with aftermarket suspension and cruise control.

Once you cross the bridge into Oregon its one block to the West, very convenient.

From where I live, you can take back roads all the way to the border on the Columbia River and then head west to the coast. https://goo.gl/maps/Q84ZAe6x7h5F3HcA7