peteinpa

I see you failed to read the assignment. You'll be staying after class tonight till you do. https://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/ This will make you not care ever again about your weird tire wear. It explains IT ALL.

I'm wondering if cleaning does more damage than good. I just liberally spray mine once a tank of gas with Dupont chain lube. 7k miles, still perfect.

Nope. Do a search here I linked to a large article on tire wear. Cant do ir now in a hotel room on my phone.

I can only vouch for my 15 but the foam is attached to the bottom of the gas tank. I can see how it blocks air at the entrance to the air box. With it removed its perfect, only on hard throttle is the sound louder. Cruising, touring, part throttle, you'll never know.

Get on your hands and knees and check under the water pump. Look for a dried trail of coolant. If you find a trail wipe it off then ride and check again. My ST1300 when new got a new water pump under warranty, they can go bad even new. The rest is the elevation changes and lube chain daily.

From a mount yourself stand point the valley in the rim on I geuss all Yamahas is very shallow compared to Honda rims. That combined with a stiff sidewall (2 ply) Roadsmart, makes for real problems. Had to call my wife down for another pair of hands to get it on.

Dont forget about removing the front piece of foam on the underside of the gas tank. Pointed out by 2WDW as an air restriction on the dyno. Mine's gone. It also gives a nice sound when on the gas. No need for an aftetmarket pipe, much cheaper! I personally think cutting the snorkel will just make it even louder, no performance gain. It's not making the intake holes bigger. Mine is still virgin.

Got those too. They only come out for plumbing or furnace work.

Jeez, will Sargent still do that?? Had mine all summer now and still not happy. It's wider than stock which is good, but still a board that slopes forward. I'm running it with the slope mod and an airhawk, still not happy. 2 hours tops and got to get off. Sometimes 1 hour. Im tall enough to handle at least another inch of foam.

I have 12 point sockets, they just sit in my roll around. I never use them. Hard enough using my wrenches (only when I have to) that are 12 point.

Yeah, PA wants to charge electric cars something but hasn't yet.

🤣In MY state (PA) they stopped annual stickers and make you print out your own paper registration every year. TO save $$$$. The cost STILL went up!

I disagree. I EXPECT at least 100k miles out of my liquid cooled bikes. Air cooled, don't know. My last few bikes I traded at anywhere from 60k to 85k miles. I'm sure they all kept on going. Im 90% sure the head can be removed in the frame. That's what I'd do. Check head over, new valve or valves, lap them in, new head gasket and head bolts. Done. Keep piling on the miles. Valve checks every 16k miles.😉

Something is wrong or different. I get no heat on left or right foot or higher on my 15. Stock exhaust. Is it feet up or down at a stop?

What did you move on to?

WHY ARE PICS UPSIDE DOWN NOW! GRRR. Site is so messed up since last change.

Nope. my reference is the movie Naked Gun.

Nice beaver...

Odd that it was an intake valve. That's never happened before. Over on the FZ09 site it's frequently cylinder #2 if something goes bad. What made you skip valve checks? I'm going to keep mine on a 16k mile valve check schedule.

47 US MPG for me, reset it every tank. ECU flash, small windshield, STD mode, all kinds of riding here in PA. Curves, ridges, highways. I ride it like I stole it then chill, and ride it like a big scooter. 89 to 91 US octane, 10% ethanol. Station with ethanol free is out of the way, especially if I'm going the other way.

I find myself using my JIS drivers in ALL cross point screws. They don't slip. That was the whole design of Phillips screws from the beginning, to allow a certain torque then cam out and stop over torque. If you don't have JIS drivers, get some.

Just a reminder for everyone, there are no Phillips screws on your bike or anything not made here. They are JIS screws. You must get a JIS driver for them.

On order. Can't find it locally and a bit pricey, but if I can lube the throttle cables just by releasing them at the tube worth it. Otherwise it's strip whole bike and remove TB's. I don't think the frame will allow removal of cables without TB removal.

Strange. I had the Actevo loved it, then just changed to Rotella because I still had a gallon lying about. It's subtle but the Actevo shifts better for me. I'll run the Rotella for the whole duration of my OCI but will probably stick to the Actevo from now on. Got to keep in mind the bike keeps breaking in as the miles pile on. My shifting also got better with the recalibration of the APS I recently performed. On the original question: I on the other hand like both since my flash, love the low end torque AND the high end HP. I use both.