peteinpa

I guess I got used to my Hondas. The three I owned with chains you couldn't hold the chain adjustment when removing the rear wheel.

Most people on most bikes will loosen the adjusters to get slack to derail the chain first.

Wonder if you have a bad ignition switch or solder joints to the switch.

Check out this video. It's from Greece, I'm sure they had fun in the twisties but WOW! Tires getting changed out for very edge wear. Video also shows how to remove rear wheel with out changing chain adjustment and with minimal removal of hardware. I did it this way on my rear tire change.

That's just a smidge too tight.

This. I was all ears, what car tire fits?!

That whine. I wish mine was one that did not have it. Oh well...

MAF sensor spray?? It's like brake cleaner that doesn't harm plastic. Widely available at Auto Zone etc. Pricey at $8 a can but you should clean your MAF in your car periodically anyway. I don't have a thumb wheel so haven't tried it.

Cruise control is such a non-issue to me. I barely use it in my cars, too much traffic on the highway. I have a throttle lock that I've walked from bike to bike through the years (with some necessary mods) that is all I need. Maybe out west in the flat boring spots but I'm still fine without it.

All bikes I've ever worked on the front bolts are first tightened then the rear. Front master cylinder and clutch bolts also have a specific tightening order. No matter how simple a job, read the manual first.

Thanks for the review. I'll probably keep my 15 till they plant me.

For just the helmet I use a carabiner, you can go as big or small (heavy duty) as you want. remove locked rear seat, run biner through D-rings and frame, bracket, etc. lots of choices there between seats and put rear seat on and lock it. Helmet strap goes deep down between seats and helmet sits on driver seat right side up in case it rains.

If you are refering to me, the "engineers" know more but their hands are tied. They must meet all emmisions requirements. That requires less than optimum power and it's getting worse as the years go by. As far as my experience goes, I took a 1998 CBR1100XX from 135 to 150 RWHP with just a jet kit and 6 degree ignition advancer. This would not be possible if the engineers had it tuned for optimum performance. Just wait, direct injection is coming for bikes just like cars and trucks. Tighter emissions.

Factory settings are forced to work around noise and emission regs. Best performance can not be achieved without a flash. Carb. bikes from the 80's on were too lean for the same reason. Jet kits sold like flashes do now. Get your flash now before they are outlawed, it's already happening in CA of course.😠

Wow. I have nothing but positive results from 2WDW. I first got a 2015 FZ07. That thing was completely tranformed with its flash. Fan comes on at 200F, off at 190. I then traded it and an ST1300 for my 15 FJ09 and got it flashed once it snowed here. Not quite as completely transformed but close. I still had to do the APS adjustment. Now it's great. Fan temps changed to same as FZ07. Even at 200 I'm trying to think if fan comes on ever. it did during TB sync. On my ST1300 fan came on in 30 seconds after stopping. It couldn't be flashed. Are they having problems changing fan temps on 20 and newer, IDK.

Been avg. 48 mpg on my 2015 with 2WDW flash this summer here in PA. That's with a lot of gassing it on curvy (only kind we have) back roads.

Just looking...

I forget if I posted this already. Millersburg Ferry, still runs when the river isn't too high or low. It's close to home for me, no real ride involved, just a piece of history still active.

Oh sure, no easter eggs for us? Shouldn't it be blue?

Yeah, no torque wrench, just 3/8ths drive socket, tight till firm then 2 degrees more, that's it. Hard to explain "feel" been doing it 40 years.

They love those tool bags. They chewed up the one in my FZ07.

My only question is does the screen mount the same as previous years? if not, you'll have to wait for the after market to catch up.

Congrats, glad you got a new one!

Mine was a used 15 with 1k miles. When I took it apart during the winter for fork work I found the axle, pinch bolt, ABS sensor, and fender, all loose. Lucky I didn't lose anything or crash. These are all dealer set up items from the crate. Check your fasteners.

At 15K miles the OEM chain is sure to be spent and probably the source of your noise. Look for any links that stay kinked when coming off the front sprocket.