peteinpa

I got my seat back from Sargent. I noticed that their 4 rubber bumpers are smaller in diameter than the OEM ones so I swapped them. More surface area to spread the weight. I also fabbed 3 more areas to spread the weight load. Got back from a test ride and wish I didn't get greedy and tell them 1.5 inch higher foam, just 1 inch. I'm a little high now. more sitting on the bike, not in. Is more comfortable, got to do more testing, rain chased me home.

Well...The small Hondas aren't made in Japan anymore. My FZ-07 had the same problem of bending the seat back to get to the seat bolts. All my 80's through 2k Hondas never made any gear whines like my 9 does. Honda doesn't make anything I currently want so I'm sticking with my 9.

In the end it might not matter. I spent over an hour talking to salesman/tech. at a Yamaha shop Friday. He thinks it'll be 2 years till a return to normal of full showrooms. They had 7 bikes on the floor and 3 were kid dirt bikes.

So this happened to my Sargent seat in one summer on my 2015. Their plastic is inferior to OEM. My OEM seat isn't doing this. I'm getting it back from Sargent today with a new seat base and foam changes. It still cost me $22 to send it back and $130 to Sargent for the foam changes and return shipping. If you look at it, there IS a lot of weight placed on 4 little rubber bumpers, with most on the 2 rear ones. I'm going to come up with a way to spread the load more with more weight supporting areas. This happened in the high setting with a slope mod in place. which places more load on the rear 2 bumpers. I believe in the low setting, weight is spread to the body work more, that's why the trim pieces break.

Looking at your pics fair warning, on your Sargent seat the left rear post mount has a white circle around it. It's about to break through the seat pan. Mine's coming back from Sargent with a new pan and foam changes. Their plastic is inferior to OEM my OEM seat isn't doing that. I'm going to try to come up with a way to spread the weight so those rubber bumpers aren't holding all the weight.

I'm going to ignore all red herrings and ask if you've had the valves adjusted. They go way out of whack long before the first scheduled check. If not done yet at 29k miles you might be in trouble.

All my Hondas never did this, I've owned 2 Yamahas and both do this.☹️😡 When I had my FZ-07 I found a spider under the glass one day! Took it apart, evicted the spider, cleaned the inside glass and re-assembled. Installing the dash is part of the un-crating of the FZ-07 and the bozos attached the wire connector but didn't fold the rubber insulator over right. This is where the dash also breathes through. That FZ-07 would slightly fog the lens in the cool seasons till I traded it. My FJ-09 is now slightly fogging now too. I'll be taking its dash apart this winter. My only question is what treatment to put on the inside glass to stop this. I waxed the FZ-07, not the answer. There are videos of dash removal/disassembly for the FZ-07, FZ-09, etc. but I haven't seen any on the FJ-09. I'm sure it's the same. Keep in mind, any replacement of the whole dash will reset your mileage to zero.

I've watched several uncratings of new bikes and it seems the battery is in the bike fully charged but disconected. If the bike sits then and they don't keep it charged at the very least it's life is shortened. I got my FJ used, with only 1k miles on it and it had a different battery in it. I think the 9 has a great charging system but small battery. You can remove the foam and put a YTZ14S battery in, larger with more CCA. All batteries will last the longest if put on Battery Tender when not in use.

I think we have a few things going on here when this happens. "Bad gas" usually means you got some water at the fill-up. This goes right to the bottom of your tank and is the first thing the fuel pump picks up. If you have a vapor recovery tank like Cali. and I don't know about other countries, they cause starting problems. If you have, just to pick a number, 20K miles or more on your bike, the throttle bodies can get dirty. this causes problems. I'd say run an injector cleaner regularly, (always?) remove that vapor tank, let the fuel pump run till you start it every time, use E0 gas whenever possible, and you should have this problem kicked.

Another thing to keep in mind is a skid plate will reflect a lot of engine noise back to you. I installed one on a Kaw. KLX650C and the first time I started it scared me with the noise. I for one won't be installing one on my 9. Done too many miles, coming up on half million, with no holes in oil pans on singles, twins, triples, V fours, both directions, and inline fours. On dirt bikes and dual sports, of course. If you regularly are on dirt roads that see rocks bigger then golf balls then yes. I can see going maybe 45 mph and the front tire kicks one up it could crack the pan.

Yeah, truly sad the state of affairs at dealers. I've done EVERYTHING myself to my bikes for 25-30 years now. ST1300 went back to dealer for water pump only because under warranty. You could maybe swallow the high charges if they seemed to know what they were doing but just...NO.

I love my Shad 23 cases. They don't overwhelm the looks of the whole bike. Something I think the Yamaha bags do, especially when you add any top box. I removed that rear white reflector and painted it matte black and removed the Shad stickers. MUCH BETTER.

I changed nothing on my phone, all started with that last forum update. I'll keep trying different things to make it work again.

Thanks, I'm not happy about this. I haven't loaded pics in the PC then tried to post yet. It's way easier direct from my phone.

You've got the manual, do you have a multi-meter? Cheap one is just fine. Go through the section in the manual on checking the battery and charging system. Also...When starting. Do in this order: Kill switch on. Key on. Wait till fuel pump stops. Then hit starter button.

Don't know where else to post this. Since the forum update I can't post pics right ways up. I even turned my pics upside down in my phone and they STILL posted here upside down. Colors are changing here and I can't post.

I think your radiator cap is defective. It's letting pressure out which goes to the bottle.

Ouch! Another one for the cagers. Sorry to hear this, you did all you could do before impact. Hope the healing goes well. +1 Get a lawyer. Should be good for 300 large or more.

I've owned 2 XR650L's and 1 KLX650C. Long stories. They are very high, I'm 6'2" 33 inseam and I had to watch where I stopped off road or I'd hit air with my feet and fall over. They had too much power, weight, and height off road. An 85 XL350 is perfect. I find one in good condition I'll still grab it.

I haven't had to do this myself (yet) so this post is based on theory, but do you also clean the part that touches the contacts?

Its amazing how so many things on this bike are not uniform. You'd think there would be a clear consensus of damped or not. My next front is naked, if I don't like the sound I'll go back.

FJ-09 Seat Concepts are discontinued. 18 on ? Tracer still good.

So this is my first FI Yamaha after only Hondas. Yamaha has only one fuel line leaving the tank. Honda has 2 like automotive systems do. 1 to supply gas to the pressure regulator and a return line for excess. I'm not sure how 1 line even works. When I listen to my 9's pump pressurize, I frequently hear it build instead of sound the same. I then turn the key off for 5 seconds then on again. It then sounds different. Then start it and it's instant, not even 1 crank rev.

Just got back from a ride. I wonder if there is any corelation between the rubber dampened front sprocket and regular one with the whine. I've seen some that like the rubber one, and those that like a standard front sprocket for sound.

Mine comes in at 50 mph then suddenly stops at 70 mph in 6th. Been thinking of adding 1 tooth up front to avoid the whine, would move the sound to a higher speed where wind noise might cover it up.