Fleng

It is used on the driver seat opening mechanism, put on top somewhere (forgot where exact) to prevent unauthorized opening of the seat. Not really needed, I have removed it.

Yep, that is what worked for me.

I have Topsellerie seats. The pax seat is not too big, but needs a bit of pressing to set. Just sit on the pax seat to have it snug into place. Will get better with time, but never real easy.

I just bought the SW Motech EVO daypack bag, it is no longer produced and could get it with a nice discount. All new bags are of the PRO type now. Still waiting for the tankring which should arrive next week. I assume you need the extra distance plate for installing as the bag needs a bit of ascendig to get over the plastic tankpart at the front?

I had one few years back, manual gear. Was a very comfortable ride and liked it very much. But was a bit heavy for pushing it out of the garage every day for commuting. Besides the weight, I also got vibrations in the front wheel. Was replaced under warranty, but it returned 1 year later. Somehow the front wheel is very suseptical to bounces, and I was very carefull with that! In the end, I changed it for the somewhat smaller VFR800X. But now very pleased with the Tracer 900, as the engine is much more to my liking.

Conti RA3 has one disadvantage. They don’t warm up easily, and not at all at low temperatures. I had a set on my previous bike, riding every day commuting. So also in the low temps season. Every tire has problems warming up then, but for the RA3 it was more pronounced. Went back to the Michelin Road 5 and this problem did not occur anymore. RA3 is a very good tire otherwise. But currently, all major brand tires are good. Just minimal differences between them.

On aircraft tires, there is still rubber when a reinforcment ply is visible. But wearing to the carcass is not allowed for obvious reasons..

Just to make things clear, you are talking about the reinforcement plies, not the carcass. No reinforcement plies are used on motor tires, so don’t mix this up. As a Airline Landing Gear engineer, I do know.

Too late for me 😩. Just be aware you also have to pay VAT and handling costs when it arrives. VAT was €2,26, handling costs may vary, but added another €4 to my bill. This was in the Netherlands, don’t know about Belgium.

https://www.tracer900.net/topic/8699-seat-slope-mod/page/19/?tab=comments#comment-137301 Using it myself, very satisfied.

I had to pick up the package at the dutch post, as additional import duties are required in the EU. So you have to pay before you get the package. If you fail to pay, it will be returned to sender. Think it is the same in Belgium. However, “my” post office did not know this and gave the package without paying. And I did not know this was required until I got a letter today stating I can get my package at the post office after paying my duties. But I already have it! Our post system is as weird as yours 😅

I could pick it up at a local Postal point. No idea why it was not delivered at my doorstep, but who cares. Installed the mod, as easy as said here many times. Very thoughtfull to include the cleanwipe. Most difficult part was to remove the protecting shield of the velcro adhesive 😀. Just did a static tryout (weather is lousy today) and it feels like my own DIYS mod which lowered the back iso raising the front. As I like the seat in the high position, your solution works better. Dynamic tryout will be this weekend I hope, but I am confident it will work out positive.

Surprise, surprise. Tracking has resumed and package has arrived in the Netherlands today. So I expect it today or next monday.

I don’t blame you. Just a warning to all overseas customers. I wait, hopefully not toooo looong.

I am on day 11 of shipping to Europe. Might take as long as 20. Shipment left US at day 3, thereafter no tracking anymore.

Never waited for the “POST” to end, just turn the key and start. Between keyturn and start, the fuel pump had enough time to do its cycle, I am not that fast 😉. And only use ethanol free gas in the winter, as the bike might stay a bit longer without running. Normally I run E10 for all the last 15000+ km’s.

If it gets worse as the day goes on, it might not be charged (or not well enough) during the ride. You need to check the charging circuit. I don’t have experience with that on this bike, so someone else needs to chime in to help you with this.

I have a 900GT. Seat is in the high position. Simply removed 4 rubber bumpers. The 2 big ones in the middle replaced by door bumpers 1 cm in hight, just attached with double sided tape. The 2 small ones at the back simply removed. No slope. And now I can sit for at least a 4 hour drive without pain, while before I could only last a bit over a hour before I got a sore bum. YMMV.

I have a 2019. A GT, but that wouldn’t matter engine wise. Never had a problem with long crancking. Don’t even wait too long before starting after ignition on. The fuel pump has its time to prime, but that is 2 sec?

Same experience here. At first I was afraid of the flexing of the adjuster on bad roads, but it holds well. Been driving over rough surface roads enough, don’t fear any damage anymore.

The Tracer 9GT became 3rd in the European motormagazines “Alpen Master quest”. Only because the BMW R1250GS (last years winner, so defender of the crown) and the current winner Ducati Multistrada V4S have much more power and electronics. Testers were a bit power hungry by default, so the super allroads won. But if you get the price in the equation (which they did not in this challange) the Tracer would have surely won.

Just to join in on all the recommended Alpinestars Web Goretex. I am on my 3rd pair (1 destroyed in an accident, did their work). Commuting every day, they were what you need in all weather. First pair lasted about 6 years, current one now about the same. No commuting anymore, but I will stick to them as long as they are available. No need to replace though.

Don’t you need a dual switch for the GT? An extra switch to cut off the Cruise Control?

In the crossplane configuration the 3 ignition cycles are close behind each other (and then a longer time nothing). In the end, this delivers higher torque, which was the whole idea of the MT (max torque) range.

Then it might not be the clutch switch but one of the two brake switches. Did you check clearance of the aft brake switch? Maybe adjusted the brake pedal and the switch is now too close? Just my 2c.