SKYFLIX

That jog wheel on the GT is the biggest letdown on the bike for me. It's infuriating to use while riding. Inevitably, as you suggested, the action ends up registering a *roll* in addition to a push, if it reads the push at all. Any solution you use won't fix the inherit design flaw. However, I *will* give a huge thumbs up to DeoxIT. I use that stuff in just about every electro-mechanical connection. The standard "D" series stuff is all you need.

Another thumbs up for the Givi solutions for me. I have both the 46L and 30L dolimiti top cases and I feel like they were well worth the investment from the security standpoint alone. I slap the 46L on when I need to secure my helmet. Or if I'm just commuting to/from work where I can take my helmet in with me, the 30L is plenty of space for my 16" macbook.

Considering an FJR was *my* first bike, It's hard for me to say that the Niken couldn't be a beginner motorized cycle.

Wow, that really was all questions answered...Very thorough.

Please correct me if I'm wrong here, but I seem to recall from Ryan F9's video that the Niken has a limited turning radius owing to its limited lean. I remember when I first started riding that I would occasionally run wide in the turns, and my MSF training saved me by remembering to push on the inside handlebar to get the bike to roll over a bit more. Could there be a scenario where the Niken wouldn't allow the rider an "out"? I'm fascinated by three wheelers in general and am quite curious about this.

I ride with a 46L tail case pretty much everywhere. But even without it, I've gotten into the habit of mounting from the right footpeg. The sidestand is too short for me to mount from the left. I have even started mounting the 'wing this way as well.

When i wired up my STS module, i bought a matching male and female connector from cycleterminal ( Motorcycle MT .090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminals Sumitomo - HM Sealed(Mounting Bracket type) and MT Sealed type... and fabricated a plug-and-play harness. In that way, the installation is as simple as connecting up the harness inline between the bikes existing wiring harness and the brake light, and should you ever want to remove it, it leaves your original wiring untouched.

You don't want that. It wouldn't sound any louder, and water would get in there and ruin it.

Drill and hot glue my friend. The glue is easily removed and replaced when you need access to the camera, which I haven't needed to do since I got the DVR settings setup right.

There's also the STS Smart Brake. This unit uses accelerometers to automatically activate the brake light when decelerating, in either solid, or flashing. I have one on my bike and it works brilliantly. Stupid easy to install.

What really blows my mind is that both the Innovv and Halocam systems are several years old now, yet they are still considered the best options available. I've seen footage from both of these systems. While I would consider them acceptable, they are far from the quality that you might expect to get from even the cheapest action cameras. That's why I purchased two older SJCAM's that have built in DVR functionality. They automatically turn on and start recording with accessory power. I have one mounted just below the screen, and one mounted under the tail lights. Granted this setup is more difficult to get *just* right, and the cameras can be a little fiddly, but the video quality is much better in both day light and night time, and you don't have to find room for all of the extra hardware. I was initially concerned about the cameras being stolen off of the bike but so far that has not been a problem. YMMV, of course.

Having never gone down on the road, it's impossible for me to answer that. All I can say is that the jacket and pants are HEAVY. I certainly do *feel* very well protected.

I ride with a Revit Sand 3 jacket year round except for the hottest of summer days, when I use a fully vented Joe Rocket. it doesn't quite breath well enough for that, even with all of the vents open, though you might get away with it in Kentucky. It comes with both a waterproof and insulated liner which keeps me quite warm in the cooler months. It has two pretty sizable front pockets as well as a few smaller pockets here and there. My only real complaint is that putting in the liners is a bit of a pain in the rear end. So if you think you're gonna get in some showers, it's best to put it in before you leave. Shoulder and elbow protection comes standard, but no back armor. I'm not even sure if they make this particular jacket anymore, but Revit does make some solid gear.

Absolutely, all the prizes! So my point was that there’s no way in heck the cases and cargo are going to weigh as much as a passenger. And certainly the subframe is built for that. So I don’t really buy that it’s not strong enough for the luggage. Now perhaps luggage AND passenger, that might be overdoing it.

Meh, perhaps. How much does a case really weigh with some clothes or a helmet in it? I don't go around packing bars of gold in any of my luggage.

46L aluminum GIVI top case and factory side bags. No issues here, though I do run a better rear shock to handle it all.

As if finding the right accessories for our bikes wasn't already difficult enough.

The list on the 2020 GT in the US was $12,999.

As a 2020 owner...

The general consensus on aftermarket exhausts is that they tend to sound "better", and are usually lighter, but you shouldn't expect any significant increase in power. I cut my factory header to bolt on a Scorpion, and although I approve of the sound, and it didn't require a re-tune from Ivan, I wish hadn't bothered really. A full system might deliver more power, but I personally don't feel it's worth the cost. Our bikes are plenty fun without it.

The fuel economy on ALL of my bikes has always gone down after a few months of ownership. I chalk it up to all of the reasons that you mentioned. We become more familiar and confident with it, or upgrade tires and suspension, so we tend to push it a little harder.

And of course we all have to remember that Yamaha has previously delayed some models into the US. So it's entirely possible that Europe may get this new model 1 or 2 years before the US. THAT I can totally get behind. The US doesn't have the stringent motorcycle regulations, so Yamaha could get a few more years of use out of the parts and tooling. I wouldn't be surprised if Yamaha updated the VINs on already manufactured US bikes, slapped some new color panels on it and called it a '21.

The point I was trying to (and failed) to make is that I believe this is a real bike, and will most certainly be the future of the line, but that I don't think it will be for 2021. That's just not how development is done. When manufacturers release a major rework of a chassis / engine / whatever, they don't generally update every single vehicle BASED off of that. It's far more cost effective to update a single line, and work out any issues that might come up with it before moving your entire portfolio over to it. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the Tracer only needs to meet Euro5 spec if it's classified as a "newly homologated" model. They can carry over existing models without any legal problems.

Personally, I don't think there's any chance in h*ll of these pictures being real. At least, not for a "2021" model. The 2021 model of the Tracer is not being listed as a "new" model like the MT-09 is. Maybe these are tests for a 2022 or even 2023. 2021 Yamaha Motorcycle Guide • Total Motorcycle ...

To save the next bloke from having to find that connector? Otherwise, why does it even matter? Connectors are for connecting and UN-connecting. If it ain't ever gonna get unplugged, then what's wrong with good 'ole butt splices or solder (the route I prefer).