SKYFLIX

Sorry, can't help you there. I've never ridden in a DMC group before, only with my son and friend (who has a Freecom). So we have to use Bluetooth.

Generally speaking, you can only have one device functioning as a headset (microphone) on a phone. So when the xumo connects to your phone, it becomes your phones headset (so you can call through the zumo). I don't recall if headset functionality is required for the Garmin Drive app to function, but you might try disabling that feature on the wireless devices screen of the zumo. In that way, your phone to cardo pairing can still function outside of the zumo. Personally, once I got the volumes setup the way I like using the cardo connect app, I never bothered connecting the phone to the headset again. All of my comms run through the zumo now.

Yamaha's official color name is DYRC4, which stands for Dull Yellowish Red Cocktail #4. It's actually not a new color at all. Been around for years. I wasn't really sold on it at first, but it's really started to grown on me, especially now that I've started adding some gold bling.

If it's a brand new bike and your valve stems are in good shape, then you'll probably be OK. Just be careful and check them regularly. The centripetal/centrifugal forces being applied by the sensors can damage the rubber stems. Perhaps hold off on installing them until it's time for a tire change (which won't be long if you have stock rubber on there now). The main issue I have with installing them directly to the valve stem (rubber or metal for that matter) has to do with having to remove them to add air (which lessens the battery life). A T valve stem will save you all that headache.

Just finished the AK-20 cartridge install today. I won't say that it *transformed* the bike, but I do feel that it handles the big bumps better than the stock suspension ever could for someone my size. The ease of the full cartridge installation was well worth it for me, but if my budget had been a little tighter (and my garage a little cooler ::grin::), then I feel like a re-valve / re-spring would be a great solution as well. Start to finish, it took me about 4 hours to do the cartridge install. And I had never done anything like this before. Were I to do it again, I imagine I could do it in half that time.

Make sure you get some metal valve stems, too, preferably a T valve so you can leave the sensor installed all the time while adjusting air. Makes the battery last longer. I get almost a year out of my batteries with this configuration.

Got the reader working today. That's bloody cool! I find it interesting that the speed reported via the OBD2 is actually identical to my GPS, but my dash reads about 2km too fast. I'm wondering if they are using different wheel speed sensors. Tried the dash overlay over video, but the video footage was terrible. Gonna try that again tomorrow after tweaking my mount.

Got the Traxxion AK-20s installed today. They nailed the spring rate and preload settings for me. 40mm sag on the money. The recommended compression was about a half turn too hard, and the rebound was about a quarter turn too hard. The hard bumps are LOADS better, but unfortunately this has just re-emphasized how crap the rear end is. The Penske won't be in for a few more weeks.

Too much crap on the handlebars already for me.... FOBO Bike 2. I like it for the fact that the sensors are on all the time. The system can alert you to slow leaks and you can know what your tire pressures are BEFORE the bike starts rolling. AKA, while you are still at home near air.

I only needed to use this to remove the factory damping rod. Traxxion provides their own tool for tightening their cartridges, though I understand its rarely needed. They don't even provide a torque spec. Just tight enough that the bolt doesn't spin.

My new AK-20 cartridges came in this afternoon. Having never done any fork work in my life, I made sure to read the installation directions over and over, and watched numerous videos online on removing the factory damping rod assembly. I KNEW that it was going to be tricky to remove the factory rod without the Yamaha or an aftermarket specialty tool (which I didn't have, and didn't want to buy). I had initially thought about just running the forks by the local dealership and asking them to remove the parts for me. I'm sure they would have happily done this. But that takes time, and time is money as they say...Plus, it's Monday, and we all know that most Powersports dealers are closed on Monday. So I decided to give it a go myself. Traxxion mentioned in their installation directions that some customers had luck using an impact wrench to loosen the factory bolt. I tried that first, and while it did break the screw loose, once it was loose, the rod just began to spin freely. So it occurred to me that I could make a simple tool using nothing more than 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe which I happened to have laying around in the garage. 30 seconds of sanding on the belt sander to square off the end, and a few hits with a Dremel to sand out the cutouts, and I present this. Since the screw had already been broken free by the impact wrench, I needed only this tool, and the 8mm hex wrench to finish off the bolt. I'm a happy camper.

Most, if not all, ECU reflash companies offer speedo calibration. Not sure if it can be done any other way.

Motorcycle MT .090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminals Sumitomo - HM Sealed(Mounting Bracket type) and MT Sealed type... Or do what I did and just cut off those blasted things and crimp/solder your own wires.

If there was ever a company which grossly underrates their equipment, it's Honda. While you are right about the published max loads, I can PROMISE you that number is exceeded on a regular basis with no ill effect. Heck, Honda even lists the maximum load on the rear carrier at 5lbs. 5lbs! You've got to be kidding me. It's bolted to the dang frame for heavens sake. Dang attorneys....I assure you my son and I and cargo exceed 420 lbs... Not to dissuade you from getting the Tracer. It's a riot!

Looks like a Viper to me.

As someone who has both a Tracer and a Gold Wing, I can tell you by the time you've spent enough on upgrades to make the Tracer an adequate 2-up tourer, you could very nearly buy a Gold Wing. I've spent just south of 17k on my 2020 GT so far, and I've only just done its 1000Km service. And all of that was just to make it right for ME. 2018 Gold Wing's are going for that money, and you get a stereo, automatic transmission (if that's your thing - I LOVE IT), heated seat, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, this is a Tracer forum, so I'm not going to bore everybody with that. Fun fact: This forum is now my top shortcut in my "Bike" bookmark bar. I'm 275lbs, FWIW. I've put more miles on the Tracer than the 'Wing in the last 3 months. tldr; Buy both. It's only money. Who needs food and shelter?

Yamaha's recommended maximum loading for the bike (rider, passenger, cargo, accessories, etc.) is 395 lbs. Keeping in mind that number is rather conservative from a legal and CYA standpoint, I'd say that you'd probably be alright, but you would DEFINITELY need a new rear shock at the very least.

Not even close to interfering. I'm 6'3" and the medium was the best compromise. I would have preferred a long arm to make the phone easier to reach, but it was bouncing around too much, no matter how hard I tightened the claw and the arms. The small put it too low and it didn't clear my tank bag. FWIW, I'm using the X-Grip mount.

The claw, right in the middle of the bars.

Indeed. That's what I ordered, and remembered the adapter cable as well. I actually went with the MX+ since I'd like to try this with my other vehicles as well (one of which is a Ford).

That's strange. I don't see how the two could be related. That feature just uses your cell phone to send the message, and AFAIK, it uses its accelerometer to determine if you've been involved in an accident. Neither of those operate in the K or Ka bands, and there is certainly no laser being emitted from the device. The accelerometer is also used to switch between portrait and landscape mode, so I don't think you really disable anything. Definitely a curiosity.

When you compress the spring when increasing preload, you are changing the 'sliding' scale of how the spring behaves. You don't *necessarily* lose any length of travel on the fork (though in practice, you certainly might). But by preloading the spring, you are loading it with a certain force based on the spring constant. To make that spring compress any further requires more force than it would if it were not preloaded, thereby making the entire suspension feel stiffer, as the smaller bumps are felt more easily. tldr; No, preloading a spring doesn't necessarily reduce the physical shock travel. What it does is reduce the shock's USEFUL travel.

Man, ya'll are killing me. As if I haven't already spent enough on this bike in the past two weeks....::sigh:: fine... https://amazo......

It's been pretty well sorted that the Niken was only the first step of what WILL be someday. It has shown lots of promise despite its shortcomings. I'm not surprised at all that Yamaha is continuing their research. But can I just say that concept drawing is about the most butt-ugly thing I've ever seen in my life.

It's not too small for you. I ride the same and I'm 6'3" and 275. I'm having to upgrade the stock suspension because of my weight, and you'll likely need to run a fair amount of preload in the front and rear yourself, but it'll get you by OK. If you can, be sure to ride it for yourself before committing.