Yamajank

I brought my gear down to Florida (spring break) thinking I might rent a bike or hit a demo day. Turns out I did get to one demo day in Kissimmee. But the rental thing is getting too difficult logistically. Is there anyone near New Smyrna Beach that has an extra bike and wants a riding partner? I know that sounds crazy but you don't know if you don't ask. I'm dying to get home and get on my tracer bc a reflashed ecu is waiting for me!

This is basically what I did on page 6...works fine for me. It’s still not as good in low as it is in high, but my legs are long enough so...I keep it in high. I just don’t like the idea of putting washers where they don’t belong. I can see why some have tried it though.

Love that color either way...need to see it on the bike though

Smoothing out the throttle is the main thing for me. Just coming off a YCRS class just reiterated that for me. The smoother you can be with all your inputs to the motorcycle the safer, faster, better you can be as a rider. After coming home and getting on my tracer it was even more apparent that I wanted the ecu flashed. There are a bunch of other things that the flash accomplishes that you can find on the respective websites.

Phew! Got the booger.

I think a lot less sexy. I’ll have my 2019 GT for a while.

OK...stuck on the hoses. Clamps off but they won't budge. How hard do you have to pull? I'm trying to twist and pull and it's like they are glued.

I’ve had the panels off when I did the mod on my blinkers and hand guard lights, but I’m not looking forward to messing with the tank. I’m sure it will be no big deal.

So this ECU is under the tank on the right? That isn’t a very convenient location. Any tips for getting it out or things to avoid? I have a tender plugged in. Any issues with leaving that as is while no ECU plugged in? I know, ECU NOOB.

Have you used the warranty enough to be worth the cost?

So I know the ecu flash is something I’m going to do. I have until May 15 for original warranty. I think I remember reading that the flash voids any warranty. Is it worth waiting for the flash? Maybe it doesn’t void the warranty. If it doesn’t, then disregard that question. However since I’m on the topic. One of the options is to have the bike start up in A mode or STD mode. What’s the rational for either choice? Who has done it and wished they’ve done it differently? From what I read about the flash, it’s a shame that it can’t just come that way from the factory.

YCRS Review OK, here we go. I finally made it out to INDE after having to wait another month because of flight cancellations. I had three main goals for this experience. 1) Really freaking understand trail braking. 2) Figure out why and stop having so much tension in my arms/hands. 3) And gain as much knowledge about how the motorcycle works and what inputs it likes best to be safer faster. 1) Mission accomplished. Not only do I understand trail braking, but I can do it. And it provides a better control of the machine. 2) Mission accomplished. Biggest solution for this is use my body more, and simply more confidence in controlling the motorcycle. If you are fortunate enough to get to a class, you have to do the two-up ride. Mine was with Nick and I couldn't believe how fast he was able to go. 3) Mission accomplished. The video that is on youtube about 100 points of grip is only the tip of the iceberg, but it gives you a hint of one of the main tenets of the YCRS way. Overall, I'm really glad I did this. Nick and all the other trainers are so fun. He talks up front about customer service and they back up their words 100%. It's probably more geared toward someone who is trying to get faster on the track than just a street rider, but they don't neglect the street rider at all. This was my first time on a track, but I imagine I'll find a few more local track days now that I feel comfortable with a track. Only "downside" to the whole thing is that I realize I'm probably going to have to ship the ECU to Ivan for a flash because of the smoothness factor. Hopefully that can be a quick turn-around, and then back to practicing my new skills. Thanks again to @com3 for the coupon and the advice. I can't speak about what I don't know about the other schools, but I 100% recommend YCRS.

Went for a ride to see if my new skills from YCRS would transfer to a street ride. I'll transition my review to the Riding School thread for those interested. Spoiler alert. Thumbs up.

Made a modification to the tool sold by @Clegg78. No offense, but I found it hard to actually turn the preload the way it is. And I think I have strong hands and fingers. I can get a little more leverage now to make adjustments.

So if you turn TC off it won’t give you the check engine light?

Getting her shined up. Hopefully for a ride tomorrow with @fjray and his new goo.

Fjray was nice enough to swing by and help me bleed my brakes then we went out to ride some of his favorite Michigan roads.

Welcome. I bought a left over 2019 just because the red was not in my wheelhouse. But there are things that can be done of course.

No kidding. I'd like to see someone try to ride in this. I wonder if our Tennessee friend has ever seen a snowmobile..hahaha.

I have smoke and like it.

Does the unit have to be plugged in?

I hear you. I bought a Dave Moss membership as soon as I bought my GT this spring. I thought I was able to dial in a good setup for me and how I ride. I guess I'm wondering if I need to introduce fork geometry into the equation because of whether the bike is not "level" from the factory or whether I think it needs to turn quicker, or whatever. I'm sure there is such a thing as too much adjustment especially when it comes to fork geometry. I suppose it might be something to experiment with someday.

So this question of geometry has been plaguing me. What is the reference point for knowing whether a bike is low in front, high in back or vice versa? It can't just be sag. For example the rear of the GT has 5 mm more travel than the front. Does that mean that our rider sag number needs to maintain that 5mm rear bias? I realize that raising forks changes the handling no matter what forward or rearward bias there is. BUT what in the world can we point to on our bike to say oh it's too high in front or too low in front? It seems to me that we're generally after a balanced and stable machine. Is it about rider sag? Or something entirely different?

welcome! First, I think it’s about how much you weigh and how tall you are for your first list of gripes. I’m 150 and probably 160 with all gear, and I think the front suspension is great. I’m sure you could improve, but I don’t see a need for it. Screen, yes, I’m 5’9” (32” inseam?) and it pretty much sucks. That’s a cheap fix for the most part. Seat, again I think weight plays a part, but I think it’s more about the angle. Get the angle right and I think it’s all day good. 19/20 no different at all except for the screen, yes i would have to ride the 21, but it would have to blow me away to not buy my 19 GT again. I know there are some upgrades, but there are things I don’t like as well also. If money is an issue, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with the 19. If it’s not, then I don’t think you’ll be disappointed by the 21 either.

I got these, but on the 2019 tracer I knew they wouldn’t really be that visible, so I made the hand guard lights as a “backup” (in the thread somewhere). Haven’t been able to ride with either one, but I like the look of the flush mount and the homemade hand guard lights. Verify your identity The link works...don’t know why it says that.