Heli ATP

I chickened out in the end and just stuck it next to the switch. If it wasn't going to fit perfect I wouldn't have been able to look at it. I 'm hoping to find aux light switches for the blanks. I used tape on the spare switch assembly but put black silicone on my actual install to keep it in place.

Finally got the McCruise installed and programmed today. The directions are perfect step by step. If you can do a jig saw puzzle you can do this, believe me. I got the expected check engine light on the 2017, but had bought an OBD2 scan tool and the four pin adapter to connect to the diagnostics port next to the battery, Cleared the code in 10 seconds. Test ride went perfect, spent 15 minutes on the highway and Wow unbelievable.

Under the headlight is a connector with a green wire for the low beam and a yellow for the high beam. Anymore I can't tell you. I would like to do the same so I will be following this thread.

Thanks Rovari, My horn does not work till the key is turned on, it did on my old bike so that confused me. The dual Hella horns are loud, my sons says they are going to encourage people to knock me down to get some quiet 😁 The signals came with Yamaha connectors so they plugged in where the pumpkins used to. I needed power for the running light portion and the blue wire didn't work. Not sure why? The Fuzeblocks took care of that.

Today I finished up most of my farkles. GPS mount, Hella Horns and 12O'ClockLabs AATS front and rear turn signals/running lights. I used a positap on the blue wire going to the tail and my rear turn signals would not work. I moved it over to the yellow wire (brake lights) and the turn signals worked when brake was pulled, which told me I had done something right. I noticed that there is a different wire going to the license plate light and wonder if that is the one I should have tapped? I ended up powering the rear turn signals from my Fuzeblocks and all works well. In my pic the yellow wire from the fuzeblocks becomes a black wire with a fuse that is tapped to the blue tail wire. Should the horn work with the key turned off? Next I must get some gas and program my McCruise.

Tell us about those AUX lights you have between the mirror set?

I'm sure you would agree that is the best color FJ. I wasn't sure at first but it has grown on me.

I wear a skull cap under my flight and riding helmets and it really helps with perspiration. Real cheap option is the HEAT-OUT Cool'R Helmet Liner.

Thanks Roadrash The pic above was first attempt at mounting, I did move them higher later. BTW....How many inches is full compression, 6"? I'm more concerned about the electrical. The wiring harness came with an inline 30amp fuse. I put a 15amp in the fuzeblocks after I read this... The amperage draw of these horns is a combined 11 amps. Should the 15amp fuse be adequate? The horns come with straps. I bent these straps and bundled a couple together to mount the horns to. There is two bolts on top of the fork securing a wiring mount bracket.... that now holds the horns on too.

I used a company called T-Rex Racing for my lowering links and an adjustable side stand on my '17 FJ-09. After a while I had a local guy shorten my stock side stand by 1.5" and had it powder-coated. The T-rex side stand was fine but I didn't like depending on the adjustable bolt. Center stand works fine with no adjustment needed. Congrats on the Tracer.

With the bike torn apart for cruise control and GPS hard wiring, I installed my Hella Horn Set and a Fuzeblocks. Ordered a wiring harness for the horn online but all the connections were up front in a bunch. I took that harness apart, put the resistor in the back and ran four wires up front. Black and red for the horns and black and white that got hooked up to the stock horn connectors, (after the stock horn was removed). My wiring mirrors that of No3 in my previous post with the ground going back to the Fuzeblocks. When I put the beak back on the horns wont be so noticeable. BOY IS IT LOUD NOW. Amatuer electrician here so any recommendations welcomed if something looks off.

Nice that you can return to stock with the DynoJet. Lots of reviews on youtube.... Dynojet Power Vision 3 Review

Where are you located Chris? Free stock exhaust

eBay has a huge selection of the Yamaha Foot Pegs... Yamaha foot pegs

Installed a double USB charger similar to petshark above. The body of mine is plastic so I had to file down the threads to get it to fit in the hole. Luckily there was still some grip left for the retainer screw to tighten down. Just to be safe I added some black silicone adhesive behind the retainer to prevent it from coming loose. I had originally purchased a Yamaha cig lighter type charger like the one installed on the left side, so I removed the connector from it. Now I could just plug into the 12v switched aux plug available behind the screen for a stock like connection. I will hard wire my GPS to one of the two spare aux plugs and will probably run a wire from the second one for extra lights down the road, that is if these spare outlets will have enough oomph for lights? I ordered some stock connectors that will plug into the spares from ebay. Yamaha DC Power Outlet Connector with cable FZ6 MT07 MT09 FZ07 FZ09 XSR TRACER

When removing some of the panels during a recent install I broke a few of the nylon fasteners. I have a box of mixed nylon push rivets for my Honda truck but none match the replacements I need for the FJ. I visited the Auto-Parts place and none matched perfectly. Is there a Yamaha set of these fasteners before I go with the cheap ebay knockoffs? 80PCS Motorcycle ATV Nylon Fairing Bolt Bodywork Push Pry Rivets Pin Kit Set

I don't know anything about the Fasst Company but 48degrees sounds balmy. 😄 Dimensions — Inches to Metric 0.875” 7/8” 22.23 mm

That sounds about right... Do tell, what is the temp in AZ this morning? 😁

I wonder why the Yamaha blinkers are not shown as available in the USA. Would they be compatible with US law? I likey.... Yamaha Genuine LED Blinkers Plus - FRONT YME-FLB2F-10Yamaha Genuine LED Blinkers Plus - REAR YME-FLB2R-10

For Yamaha 5DM-81950-00-00 /Omron G8HN-1C4T-DJ ... FJR1300 12 -Yamaha LED Flasher Relay - R1 R6 MT09 FJ09 FZ6R FZ8 FZ9 FZ1 XSR900 FJR1300

Started my MCCruise install today which requires removal of the fuel tank. Had a hard time removing the fuel pressure hose. Seems the connector on my 2017 is a little bit different than the orange and blue pictured earlier in this thread. Here is a pic I found on the FZ-09 forum (credit to excess-arrr-rider) that covers my connector. Insert flat head screwdriver and twist does the trick. I really had to pull hard on the overflow and vent hoses to get those off. I had seen where someone else had just left them on and rerouted them down later, but a good pull and they came off.

Turns out the tolerance on the Yamaha Quick Shifter kit is about 1mm, and I was off by 1.5mm. Adjusted the length between connection points and everything works as advertised. If you go with the Yamaha kit checkout this video first. It was a big help... Yamaha Quick Shifter Kit Install I think the reason the bike wouldn't shift was because the QS was plugged in but not set up right. I disconnected the connector, adjusted the length of the rod and plugged the connector back in. The setup worked as advertised and the bike shifted between gears again. Does that make sense?

Installed the Yamaha quick-shifter today on my 2017 FJ-09. Pretty easy except for getting to the connector under the tank to plug into. I had looked at a you tube video of install for the FZ09 which has less stuff to take off before lifting the rear of the fuel tank. Not a difficult upgrade but supplied directions are vague regarding what to take apart to get to the connector under tank. When I tried to do the setup it wouldn't take. Directions ask to hold the gear shift lever up with your foot while turning key to on. Keep upward pressure on the lever for 10 seconds and QS light should light up. Release pressure from shift lever and go ride to test. I was in N and couldn't get the light to come on. At that point I tried change gears to see if that would help, and I couldn't change out of N. Bike hasn't been ridden in a few weeks. It was at the dealer last week for the first 600mile oil change and I had them install the Yamaha heated grips. I pushed it from the dealer to a trailer and into my garage without starting it, and so it sat because of snow and ice outside. I've got to go out for a while but will play with it again later. Any suggestions?

I'm barely 30" inseam, probably closer to 29". I have added the lowering kit from T-Rex which gave me an additional 1.5". I'm not an aggressive rider so I don't see much difference in performance but have clipped the center stand a couple times when crossing a curb. I picked up a pair of CALTO G6252 boots which promise an additional 3.5" but it reality it may be closer to 2". I find if I put my left leg down first and keep my right leg on the rear brake it helps with stability. There is also the Yamaha lowered seat which does not get good reviews. Small Guy on Motorcycle

After playing with my MT-10 left switch pod I've come up with another idea. It requires cutting away some of said switch and using the Slim Switch from McCruise. I thought the original McCruise switch was monstrous but new Slim Switch is a beautiful piece, and I am not confident enough to de-construct it. So echoing 2and3cylinders comments about all the empty real estate on the left hand switch pod I was all set to incorporate the McCruise controls into the blank switches like dazzler24. After closer inspection I have to admit what dazzler24 accomplished is way beyond my skill level. I had to de-pin the Slim Switch connector and increase the drain hole on the bottom of the pod to route the wire through. On page 6 of this thread dazzler shows how the back portion of the Slim Switch can be cut off. This would allow the switch to sit lower that shown in my pics. The only question left is will I have the courage to de-construct the left pod switch on my FJ-09. There are a lot of small pieces in there 🙄