Roughness and noise at low throttle openings

[skipperT]

9 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

You can but the EBC clutch holder tool here.  I have one for the FJ and VTR. You can make your own easily by just welding a suitable diameter steel rod to the edge of a steel drive plate or two sandwiched and tacked circumferentially together so the rod is located between the basket "flutes".

It's an age old DIY thing even pro race mechanics used (still) to do...

Motion pro makes an inexpensive clutch holder as well that will work, however mind that it fits well into the “slots” of the pressure plate before loosening. 

and ALWAYS LOOSEN the nut BY HAND. Don’t use an impact! (This especially vital if you’ve converted to a slipper setup!) 

I can’t seem to post a link this morning on my mobile, @fr8dogbut if you google Motion Pro clutch holding tool, there are 2 versions.  I’ve used the cheaper $40 version for years. I don’t know if that newer 140$ one is wide enough?

HTH, 

Skip

 

 

 

[2and3cylinders]

4 hours ago, skipperT said:

I personally think that:

-the “gronk” is one type of noise/feeling from the drivetrain, and

-the clutch noise heard when engine is idling and clutch lever is pulled/released 

… are 2 entirely different things, IMH(P)O. I will confirm this after doing my own repair, which is out waiting for me to get to it. But regarding your question @2and3cylinders, some noise is typical when clutch is used at idle and not in gear, AND this sound is even different for those of us (you and me, I believe) who have converted to a slipper clutch. 

-S

You could be right but the gravely noise & vibration when the lever is worked in and out right at the friction zone is of real concern versus just the gronk noise which I understand.  What I'm experiencing not so much.

 

I'll have to monitor and see if it improves once warm.

[bwringer]

On 4/19/2024 at 7:02 PM, dazzler24 said:

I bought that tool (EBC) a ways back when I did the slipper update. Think I bought it from one of the usual online giants at the time but here is a link that may kick you off on a local hunt in the US for yourself.

I'm from Oz so buying from Japan or the US can be similar cost wise to get stuff here.  I know Webike had an option to ship, literally via a ship, to me here at the time which significantly reduced to overall cost which can be prohibitive at times when buying from the US.  Here's my post on the purchase.  Having said that, I bought my slipper kit from Partshark back in 2019 so do share the love around. 🙂

Ah, I somehow missed the fact that you're on the other end of the planet from me!

And many thanks for the clue for obtaining the EBC tool. I had no idea such a thing existed. Yes, I know you can make your own... but I really like that tool a lot better.

The Aussie Amazon link is to the EBC CT021 tool, which seems to fit a buncha Hondas, but what is in the application guide for our machines, and in the photo, is the EBC CT020 tool. 

I've ordered one (under $30 USD), even though I don't really have plans to monkey with the clutch for a good long time. I've always felt that special tools like this should be considered part of the bike.

 

To reiterate the answers to an earlier question, the GRONK! happens in motion under light load and at low speed, and is an unpleasant noise/vibration caused by worn rubber cushions in the clutch basket.

The GRONK! is an COMPLETELY separate issue from clutch rattle/noise. If you're not in motion, you're not GRONK!-ing. All wet clutch motorcycles have some degree of clutch rattle at idle that improves when you pull the clutch lever (and don't overlook noise from the clutch lever itself rattling; this can be significant, but a finger on the clutch lever will soon settle the question).

Fortunately, both conditions appear to be entirely harmless and can be ignored if you like.

The GRONK! can be eliminated with fresh cushions, either through arts and crafts or via an entire new clutch basket.

Clutch rattle can be improved with new parts, but does not really ever go away entirely. It's in the nature of wet clutches.

Edited April 25 by bwringer

[2and3cylinders]

Thanks 

I'm going to try to ride Saturday (for the first time since last November!) and will then try to evaluate for Gronk AND what, based on my bleary recollection, is abnormally load and unusual clutch activation noise when idling.

However, being in my shop albeit with the 5.5 foot side door and 3 foot service door open, as well as 3 fans, it could be this possibly louder operational noise is accentuated indoors.

Some Wet Cutches may be relatively noisy, but Dry Clutches can be expectations so with more of ringing noise as the metal drive plates dance between the hub and basket grooves and slots.

Some riders, particularly Ducatista, love the sound of their tinkling dry clutches, which tend to get grabby when hot.

[betoney]

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I'm going to try to ride Saturday (for the first time since last November!)

Hopefully the weather if favorable for your first ride of the year.

[2and3cylinders]

1 hour ago, betoney said:

Hopefully the weather if favorable for your first ride of the year.

Thanks for your thoughts

[piotrek]

On 4/17/2024 at 4:19 AM, dazzler24 said:

Blue this time!

There was no thread-locker on the nut when I removed it. The bike had the shifter shaft recall done by the dealer before I took possession. Dealer monkeys couldn't be bothered to do it right I guess. I also used blue.

[dazzler24]

9 hours ago, bwringer said:

The Aussie Amazon link is to the EBC CT021 tool, which seems to fit a buncha Hondas, but what is in the application guide for our machines, and in the photo, is the EBC CT020 tool. 

I've ordered one (under $30 USD), even though I don't really have plans to monkey with the clutch for a good long time. I've always felt that special tools like this should be considered part of the bike.

 

Thanks for pointing out the error I made with that link.  You are of course correct in that the tool is in fact the EBC CT020 (not the 21) .

Just for the record I've fixed the link in the original post.

The one I have....

[2and3cylinders]

Yep Dat ders da one

[2and3cylinders]

Well, I got out for a ride today. High 70s believe it or not

about 40 Miles and the bike started acting up. It died, the first time I pulled over to the side. After that I got smart and just hit the starter while I was still rolling. It happened 3 times

Wasn't sure if it was electrical but who knows?

I was gonna stop anyway for gas. Because the E10 gas was from last October and it may have had crud in it. So I filled up

on the way back, No problems and I took it through the paces. Broke a ton plus 15, up-and-down all 3 modes, on and off the throttle.  Nothing it didn't happen again

When I got home, I put in some techron, Shook the bike to mix it. started it again warmed it back up. Pulled in the clutch to hear the noise

played with the manual cam chain tensioner adjustment, which I'll do again when it's not so hot because the fan kept going on and it's hard to hear the chain

Anyway, a 40 miles my hip was starting to hurting. I did make it a little farther than I used to but I haven't ridden since last October

My left thumb joint was hurting too

God. I gotta look into a d c t transmission

I'll try it again next opportunity but that's why we call it a shake down run

With all the service I did, I wanted to see how it ran. And I had that glitch, but I also wanted to check out my Bod.