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Oil selection and your clutch


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  • Supporting Member

 Sorry to start another oil thread but this one has a twist.

I have always purchased full synthetic oil as the extra couple of bucks gave me peace of mind, (Not really sure why 🙂).

Today at an independant motorcycle store I was told that synthetic oil is bad for the clutch. I was advised that the engine will benefit from synthetic oil but not the clutch. I was purchasing oil for the Niken CP3 with slipper clutch and for my Kawasaki dual sport KLX230 with wet multi-disc clutch, so the store owner may have been talking about one or the other. I'm not sure if it was because he had no synthetic oil in stock, but I ended up leaving without any oil to take time to fully understand this.  Opinions?

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  • Supporting Member

As previously stated, as long as its "motorcycle specific" oil, use what you want. 

FWIW, last few bikes have 24,000, 65,000 and 80,000 miles, I've used synthetic oil in all of them and never had any clutch issues or even wore one out.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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  • Supporting Member

I try to run full synth too, for longevity, but also (as I understand it) synth tends to linger in the upper end longer than dino oil.  Helps prevent dry starts.

Anyways, no problem with synth moto-specific oils at all, they're engineered for wet clutches.

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2015 FJ-09 / FJR touring bags / oil plug mod / Evotech rad guard / SW Motech bash plate / VStream touring windshield / Seat Concepts:  Sport Touring / Vcyclenut ABS rings (speedo correction) / Cosmo RAM mount

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  • Supporting Member

I'm far from being an expert in oils (and many other things!) but I tend to believe what my oil manufacturer says on their product that I use.  The Tracer (FJ09) user manual indicates that JASO MA is what's expected as the minimum for that motor.

Quoting from the oil manufacturer's application guide (Penrite in this instance): -

"PRODUCT BENEFITS
MC-4ST 10W-40 is the superior performance premium engine oil with 100% PAO &
Ester, synthetic base oils combined advanced additive technology including *FULL
ZINC + (exceeding 1800+ ppm levels) for maximum engine, gearbox & clutch protection
against wear, corrosion, oil oxidation, piston deposits and sludge under all conditions. It
exceeds the requirements of API SN/CF and JASO MA.

APPLICATION
MC-4ST 10W-40 is designed for use in most modern four stroke road & sports bikes, dirt & enduro bikes,
ATVs/Quad bikes and 4 stroke scooters that require a full synthetic engine oil. It is also equally suitable for use in
transmissions with wet clutch systems where engine & gearbox oils are combined. It has optimum clutch slip
prevention in these systems being compliant with JASO MA as is suitable for use where JASO MA1 and JASO MA2
is specified.
"

HTHs

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Been using nothing but motorcycle specific synthetic oil (Mobil 1 4T) on all my bikes for many years.  Never had a mechanical failure in any of them and no issues with clutches.

 

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There is nothing like spending a day riding with friends in the grip of a shared obsession.

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  • Premium Member

Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is also MA rated even though it's advertised as a diesel ️ oil.

It's base stock is not PAO and 5W may sound thin but I ride down to 32F and never in 100,000s of miles have had an oil issue on a few bikes.

At $22 a gallon you can't beat its value! 

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Most aftermarket clutch manufacturers recommend soaking the discs in non synthetic oil and also breaking it in on that.  But then you are fine to switch to synthetic. I have been using full synthetic over the last half million miles on motorcycles and never had any issues. 

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Y'all realize how many bikes now come from the factory with full synthetic in them? The ignorance and deceptions of many service managers or technicians is staggering, which is why we must do our own homework and learn from the experiences of others "and a little thing called science". I know many like that Rotella stuff and I too have run it in some previous bikes a bit, but in my experience that shifting quality goes rather quickly.......and it's not a true PAO ester synthetic. ;) 

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  • Premium Member

Maybe i'm just oblivious to the poor shifting T6 may give.

For the price, you can change it more often like a Dino oil and I said it wasn't a PAO.

Back before they changed mobile one I used it as a motorcycle oil and in my car's but then the package we needed for API efficiency ratings was removed and i switched to various oils over the years, some at the time were spendy for MA MC oil.

I  can't recall how I ended up with T6 but It does getter done

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9 hours ago, Ride365 said:

I know many like that Rotella stuff and I too have run it in some previous bikes a bit, but in my experience that shifting quality goes rather quickly.......and it's not a true PAO ester synthetic. ;) 

I have had that experience as well. Was an early T6 adopter and ran it for a few seasons when I was young and poor as a way to run synthetic without breaking the bank. Did not have good oil longevity before it looked and felt worn rubbing it between my fingers after draining and shifting was very notchy after only a few thousand miles. 
 

I also do not care for Amsoil for similar reasons, but also I’ve never owned a vehicle, be it two, three or four wheels that didn’t start to “use” oil once I went to Amsoil and it immediately stopped once I stopped using it  

 

I don’t know why, but that’s been my, my dads, and a few other friends though the years, experience. 

 

Edited by miweber929
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  • 2 weeks later...

Not exactly about synthetic but semi-synthetic and my transmission whine. I tried the Actevo Castrol 10-40 and the (yeah I know your supposed to keep rev's up and all that) 6th gear whine has diminished by 90%. Wonyachdering if anyone has experienced this. I'm wondering if Dino oil on my next change will be even quieter?

I'm a marine engineer and we always do UOA (used oil analysis) and Rotella T6 in Diesel engines has the best viscosity longevity I have ever seen in some of those 1600 HP MTU engines. Like 400 hours and still protecting. We get it in 55 gallon drums. 

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